Think I hurt my Road King

Put 4000 miles on my rebuild no problems, changed oil to BG partial syn. and abused the motor slightly, (ok twisted it but it never laid over).Now has started to like some oil on rear cyl, not putting the blame on oil but went back to dino oil and cut consumption down big time, Is 2000 R/K, now 96 in. with carb , will check comp. and leakdown. Will to post a running account of my diagnostic for all. Thinking of a pull the whole thing and having cases bored for a 116 or 124 kit. Have to look at the check book LOL. Will share info with all to try to help all.

Doubt you hurt it I punish my bike with less than 1000 miles on a fresh build for 4 hours on the dyno and it saw red line many of times .its probably just a valve seal .leak down will tell ya .im cranking over 200 psi and have super heavy springs in it .and if it was gonna break it would have .them twin cams take alot of abuse before they scatter .I broke the top end on my 98 at 7600 before it puked it was all on me broke a spring and kiss a piston .run out on the crank was still under 3 thou them early bottom ends are strong.got 40.000 on this bottom.and just dyno out 106 _110.26 out of a peanut cammed 95 .

Will admit that on my rebuild used an economical cast piston at 10/1, put 2006 heads on jugs with feuling 534 cams. Ran 93 or 91 non ethonal with S/E high comp. module. Did not detonate/ping until oil consumption started. Might have hurt a valve seal but the motor never laid over like it floated a valve to hurt the seal. The truth will for better or worse show up on the compression and leak down test.Runs great, pulls strong, sounds good but now if she needs attention again will most likely ponder being foolish and pull the whole heart out. Thanks BP for the input .

Hey man for what its worth. I ran cast pistons for 4 years in my deuce at 10.25 no issues .but im with you nothing wrong with longer wheel set .I like the 124.ci thought. Lol shit load of bottom end torque.

checked compression today, 175 front 180 rear cold was the same warm. had put fresh plugs in about 500 miles ago, they looked ok with same color. oil consumption want back down with dino oil. leakdown showed 4% front and 2% rear at tdc added 2 pumps oil per cylinder #s still the same results. still pings if lugged slightly, uses a little oil, and left muffler has slightly oily feeling. does not smoke on start or decell. what a pain in the butt to leak down, used to rotating resistance of a big v/8. will most likely pull pushrods for bdc and halfway in stroke leakdown next. wish i had taken a comp. test after break-in, hind sight 20/20. ( thanks for the help with password ken)

started pulling DR. king apart (my therapist) the exhaust ports looked the same, no [holly crud look at that] sign of oil. did some homework on ignition modules might have a little to much advance but build went well for 4000 miles before things went south with obvious detonation sound on light acell without downshift.

Got the top end off, still good tension on comp. rings and oil rings look ok . Still mint crosshatch on jugs and no marks. Have not pulled pistons off rods for better look at oil rings. The comb. chambers look oily. What I see and do'nt like is that the coating on the skirts is almost all gone, skirts look great but the coating looks like it has been falling of from a poor bond not from wear. Thinking this coating might have done something to oil rings. My other concern is how did the oil pump like blending the coating? Will pull pistons from rods and get a better look at coating consistency.

Pics! Of the piston skirt please!

Will try on Mon.

thank my son heres pictures just dont want to be here same place next year

Do you have a bore gauge? If you do seet if its on the loose side or if there is taper in the bore .if it was on the tight side it would have scuffed the skirt .this looks more of the skirt walking and chiping it away .im sure you washed the bore with hot soap and water before assembly.correct? And lubed the bore before assembly and wiped down the rings before you put it together. Correct?. If not thats why the skirts can look like this also and the rings will start to loose tension.lots of machine shops will bore the cylinders and not wash them when done just wipe them off the hone oil is left in the crosshatch.along with fine stone aswell.hot soapy water is your best friend.

took the jugs to the firehall, washed them in the nice deep sink with hot azz soapy water before assembly. Have an inside mike set but only a 4-5 in" mike, will borrow one on the weekend from a machine shop. Used GM assembly lube (the formula they discontinued about 2 years ago) on all the parts. There's the problem, GM's are not air cooled lol. I do think the finish on the honeing might be a little aggressive in retrospect but to go 4000 miles and then wave the white flag still concerns me

See if you can use a bore gauge .or a telascopeing gauge will work also. Cant messure taper with an inside mic.gm zddp works fine but I like lucas assembly lube the best green tacky sticky shit .I can run a blown alki motor running at 10.5 af ratio pull it apart and that assembly lube is still there.the new se rings are a napier ring pack and have real good seal .if ya need a piston set let me know I have a brand new set of 10.25 se.

to close in full screen?

Did you have to move your chair back? lol My problem is arms are getting shorter or my eyes poorer.

Looking at putting roller tip 1.725 roller rockers on when I reassemble. JMO why do all the manufacturers sell a product that looks like a blacksmith made then on an open fire and an anvil?