Twisted off new coil connector

Just when I had the new Andrews coil bolted in, and the top connector hooked up to the ignition, I started tightening the bottom nut and . . . snap! Off goes the brass threaded post. Dang! I wonder if I could drill into the end of the coil and insert a new threaded rod or am I buggared?

dont go to deep .! i would just solder a wire to the post josh bob! and put a male female connector on it .

Buggared, oh I mean Joshbob, like BP said.

okay, fellas, I soldered it. Hope it holds. Thanks. Oops - forgot to put a male/female disconnect on it . . . oh, well . . .
I started it up and it works. For now.

Guess I'm good to go then. Thanks, boys. Hey, I saw a couple of posts by Johnnybiker this morning - good to see him back.

just thought of him soldering on a bench and the installing it on the bike thats why i said connector . it is another drop in current as it starts to get old . but there is some good weather pack connectors out there . i use them all the time on builds in the shop no problems. quick change out if the part fails . glad you got it running

It was a good soldering job, too. Not cold and gobby. I learned how to solder years ago when I used to build Heathkits. Built a few recievers and amps in those days for fun and profit.

nothing worse than a cold solder joint . drives a auto tech crazy ! you cant imagine how many ecm we had in the early 90 s . that had colder solder joints on the boards . drove us crazy trying to find out if it was the part or wiring !

ide get a new coil,that 70.00 you saved aint gunna mean alot when your sitting out in the middle of noware,broke down

I agree,
I think when Hotroadking said "No disconnect. Just becomes a point to fail" ment that a solid connection is not good, it'll become bridle with heat and time and break off, JMO
if you don't think it is tight enough use a double nut or locktite. I think it should be a nut, then connection and another nut.

"Heathkit" wow! Haven't heard that word in many years. I learned soldering building brass tube chasis for slot cars! Then Dynaco amps & tuners.

Lots of good connectors that are weathertite and sealed. Used many on my boat for the electronics I installed, BUT, I would replace that coil soon like they said.

I'd start shopping for a new coil.
That soldered connector will prolly break off especially on a rigid shovelhead bike.
If and when it does break you'll be stranded and calling for a tow.
I've been there and done that.

You're talking about a road king not a rigid frame solid mounted shovelhead, correct? Big difference in vibration.
Hopefully the solder connection will hold but I personally would not trust it.
Because of a bad electrical connection I've broken down and had to push my 650 lb bike 2 miles up and down the road in the dark.
I ain't going out like that ever again.
And a tow truck will prolly cost about $150.

There's always duct tape - it'll get me home. And yes, I do carry a small amount in my tool bag!
Saving nearly $80 is big right now. I built my scooter mostly with my S.S. checks . . .

I do have an idea for a more permanent repair: drill and tap out a hole in the stud and screw in a threaded rod using epoxy to lock it in. I'm guessing no more than a quarter of an inch deep, making sure there's a solid electrical connection at the bottom of the hole.

Okay, so I decided to unsolder the connector from the coil. Took it off and drilled a 7/32" deep hole into the stud. I was afraid to go any further as I could see the end of the wire. Tapped it out with a flat bottom tap and screwed the machine screw down using super glue to lock it in. Boys, it's in there for life. I cut the end of the screw off and put the coil back on the bike. Started it up and it ran perfectly. I think this is as good a repair as one could get under the circumstances.

Thats good American engenuity ther Joshbob, I think your good to go

Thanks - and now maybe I can ride for a while before something else breaks! LOL.