107 Kit & cams

On a Base map showing the Cam setup and all, I thought TM had the ing timing and all setup pretty close for everything.
If you are having problems, There is a place you can run the bike hooked up the computer, it will read what the bike is doing and send it to Thunder-Heart and they will look at the map and make corrections.

There is also a place to add or subtract cranking fuel and all.
If I don't use the program all the time, I tend to forgit what all it does.
Guess I might get Alz like my grandmother had.
Not looking forward to that.
Hope they figure out a cure in the next 10 yrs.

LOL...His SIL would just take it on him.... So there is more to the TMax's than just getting a close base map,flip on Auto tune and ride...
BP it reminds me a little of sitting through a Latin class when I read your explanations on EFI tuning,I understand a bit, but I'd definitely flunk the course. lol

Nope, dyno cost too much money and I'm forgotten too much.

Thunder-Max will do a great job. It takes longer for it to do everything for you.
I'm in a hurry. And If I can copy a map that is dynoed and put the fuel tables in the crusing range in my map.
Then I did it.
Bike runs good. Automap is still working as I ride.
I sure do like the Auto compression releases in the 11 bike.
My buddy with the SE SG down the street who helped me do the tear down and put back together.
Said man you have a bike that runs dang good.

WOW this thread should be under almost all of the forums except the food channel LOL

Yep you got it thats why I like narrow band tunning and load based mapping .I shut tje 02 off map the bike turn the 02 back on and let it eat and smart tune the cruise area.learn that from doc.tjen do the timing

Your a funny dude .lmfao im sorry I get to technical. I had a tmax on my deuce it was a good ecm . They all have there good and bad from a tech point of view.

As you know I just did a 107 FM kit. And went with a Hayden M6 BT07 primary chain tensioner.
And a Barnett Scorpion Clutch.

When I went to crank my bike, there was a clanking kind of noise right at the derby cover on the bike. Was told it was normal.
Well I tore ever thing down and me being hard of hearing couldn't tell where the noise was coming from.
Got up this morning and took the bike to the HD dealer.
They listened to it and said everything sounds normal
Only way I can tell is to take the primay off. I will have to charge you if I do that.
I said take it off.
1st thing he said is man your primary Chain is way too tight. It has Zero Play.
you need some play in your primary chain when you decelerate.

Who's tensioner do you have. A Hayden M6 Bt07

Here is how it looked.



He pulled the M6 and looked at the Shoe.



Man how many miles do you have on the bike with this tensioner.
About 2000 miles. Dude that is a lot of wear for that amount of miles. This shoe will not last anytime.

He pulled my Comp Sprocket
Dude this comp sprocket is bad.

Look at the red on it.

The comp sprocket is the clanking sound you heard at start up and the chain being so tight did not help.with the added torque youll replace that comp sprocket again .about 20.000 miles down the road .you get the latest upgraded one we spoke about.? If I would have read this earlier I would have had you take the comp sproket apart and checked it sorry bud.!

Here is the latest and greatest Screaming Eagle Compensator Sprocket. It has a 70 mm Torque bolt.
And if you look my original Self adjusting Primary tensioner is back in the bike.



And here is the Oil slinger that goes on the outter primary Cover. This comes with the SE comp Sprocket.

Perfection!that's how you do it! Some times the orginal part that came in the bike is the way to go!

Got a email back from Tony Hayden

Hello David, sorry to hear you had an issue with our M6. Seeing the photo you sent, this is actually normal wear. Your plastic "shoe" on the M6 has now worn the three groves into it from the chain links and the rollers of the chain are now in contact. This is the "break in" period addressed on the instructions. As far as your dealer saying this is "too tight" well that is a normal response from mechanics not familiar with our product or stuck in their ways. You see, we keep a constant and correct amount of tension on your primary system at all time with our springs. We ALSO provide the cushion that the stock tension CANNOT do. My suggestion to you is to reinstall and continue the benefits the M6 offers and has for over 25 years. Please don't hesitate to give us a call, or have the mechanic give us a call and we can explain our product directly to him.

Thanks for your email and your support of our product,
Tony
Hayden Enterprises

HD mechanic took my bike out for a Test Drive.
When he came back he said I sure was impressed with the performance of your bike.

If the primary chain is to tight. the output shaft on the crank and trany are taking a beating and all the bearings also plain and simple. I dont give a rats ass what mr hayden says.nobody has more money than the motor company for rd.if they wanted the primaty chain that tight the would have done it that way from the get go.

The instructions read what to do and how to use the shims if the measurement was more than 3/8 of an inch.
The measurement was less than 3/8 of an inch so It didn't tell me what to do.
Guess I should of called and asked.
The HD Mechanic who graduated from MMI just pressed up and down on the primary Chain.
He said to me while I was standing there. Look there is no slack what so ever.
It needs some slack , especially on Decel.
I had the Old self tensioner in. He showed me that the primary chain has some slack in it.
And said it will take out the slack as it need to.

I just got kinda scared after the HD mechanic showed me that.

I put the M6 in because I heard a bike builder always uses it .
And seen where a couple other bike builders uses them.