1999 1200C Chop & 1250 Kit Rebuild

The wiring on my bobber is very simple. I'm only running a single wire to the headlight with a 3 way toggle switch for hi-lo-off. Two wires from the tail light. One wire from the speedo. One wire to the coil from a 15 amp fuse. Regulator wire to a 30 amp fuse. All other wires converge to a 15 amp breaker. No starter. No kill switch (I can reach down and turn the key off). No horn (but loud pipes - I don't think they'd hear a horn over the pipes LOL). No modules, no relays. And it's possible they'll NEVER hear that .40 slug coming.

Lol, I like the way you roll

I've got lots of room under the seat behind the engine, so I think I'll put the coil pack there...also, pls take a look at my oil pump plumbing cuz I want a sanity check to make sure I haven't crossed up the feed and return lines. The hard line fitting goes out towards front of bike to oil filter, but the other 2 are the ones that concern me. I have the inlet line from the oil bag attached at the bottom in line with the hard line that goes to the oil filter and then the return line is attached above those lines to that 90 degree brass fitting. Does that look right?

Wish I could help but can't tell anything from the pics you posted.

Lol, I'll take some more

Almost finished the wiring harness. Now I need help with the tail light wiring so I can include both front and rear brake switches.

How does the front brake switch work. Does it send back power or a ground/earth signal and how is the pressure switch in line on the rear brake line wired up to include the front brake switch?

Okay, after studying the wiring diagram I think I've got it sorted. The front brake switch gets power from via the orange/white wire from the red/grey ign switch wire then runs power to brake light via red/yellow wire after switch is activated.

The rear brake light pressure switch gets power from the same orange/white wire then runs the same red/yellow wire out to brake light to jump it up from run light to brighter brake light.

My brake light is an old school Ford light that has two wires (blue and black). I'll test it, but I figure blue will be run light, so I'll tie it into the ign wire (red/grey) directly for power all the time and run the two switch wires (red/yellow) to the black wire for brake light.

Once that's done it will be time for fluids and static timing. Anybody ever put a little motor oil directly in the timing peep hole before initial startup?

I haven't - but that don't mean it can't be done - but WHY bother? If you're static timing it, you don't need to use a plastic view plug, either.

I just like the idea of having oil in there while turning the crank over before the oil pump can get it done through the filter. I will prolly get a little plastic view plug for dynamic timing otherwise with my luck I'll get an oil bath

If all goes well I'll fire it up for the 1st time after work today

Anybody have a break-in routine that they like? I usually just run new cams in at around 2000 rpm on new motors for about 20 minutes then go out and do some pulls to seat the rings.

However, I've read that there's a chance the rings could micro weld to either the slug lands or jugs if they get too hot too fast, so there's a method also recommended that runs heat cycles; run 1 min cool completely, run 2 min cool completely, run 3 min cool completely, run 4 min cool completely, then ride for 20 min below 3200 rpm then you're done.

What do you guys think?

I'd just take it out for a nice easy run for about 15 min. then let it cool down and start re-torquing heads,cylinder base nuts, exhaust flanges,cases, check it over good for any leaks or loose parts. Then take it easy as you would a new bike( no max rpm or hard shifting) for a couple hundred mi. Also dont forget you got new tires(they're kinda slick for about 20mi.) And you gotta be easy on the breaks too for a while. JMO

Here's the method I used(just make sure there are NO RAGS fell in the bottom end...)

Click on "How should I break in my new S&S engine...

S&S Cycle | Top End

Thanks Charlie, I forgot about the new (slick) rubber!

Thanks Lucifer, I think I pulled those rags outta the case before I buttoned up the slugs & jugs

:roflmao:Wish I did LOL...Doesn't hurt to be running a tad rich either...after a couple of heat cycles and you take it out...I like to do 3rd gear pulls from 30-60MPH let it engine brake back down to 30,then smoothly accelerate back to 60MPH about 10-12 times over...first 50 miles is where you'll seat the rings,dump the oil,then take it easy for 500 miles,dump the oil again...go easy for another 500...then rock n roll

Will do & thanks!!!

I need help with fuel. The bike is firing and wants to run badly, but I can't get fuel to flow from tank to the carb. I ran a little fuel into the line manually at the carb and it wanted to run run run

The peacock seems to be the issue, but I'm not sure. No fuel at all will flow through it in any position on, off or reserve... I have vac at the back of the carb and that vac attached to the peacock. Isn't that right? There seems to be a diaphragm there at the back of the petcock that should allow flow with vac, but its not working and peacock is not flowing fuel.

What are the symptoms of a blown diaphragm?

I was afraid you'd say that

I'll get a new petcock tomorrow cuz if I'm going to the trouble of draining the tank I want to go back a brand new one & thanks!

Afraid there's no easy way for you Cap LOL. I did my break in with starts and idles several times increasing to a few minutes. No hard revving - just enough to keep it going. Then take that first short ride around the neighborhood. Then around town varying speed. Then longer rides. 50 to a 100 miles later check the torque on the heads, base nuts, rocker boxes, etc.
Don't go over 60 MPH until you get a few hundred on it always varying speed.

I did this with mine and I'm sure it would have worked fine except my engine wasn't really rebuilt :roflmao:.