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2005 Twin Cam Tensioners Replacement

Discussion in 'Motorcycle Tech Talk' started by Marc1340, May 16, 2016.

  1. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    No I am not saying it won't work but that the persons making
    the cam plate might be making the tool so it's a clue when you
    open it on you toob it says if you want one to email holescreek@yahoo.com


    BTW CA Phil said to tell you to look at
    http://www.heartlandproducts.net/

    They make US quality tools for HD products
    at a lower cost than Jims, Snap On etc.
    Marc1340 likes this.
  2. Fatboy128

    Fatboy128 Well-Known Member

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    Tanks!
  3. Fatboy128

    Fatboy128 Well-Known Member

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  4. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    well it's in the info section on the video, he has a utoob channel

    and there are comments from him just 4 days ago about
    receiving an email on the tool......

    here is the contact page for him,

    https://www.youtube.com/user/Holescreek/about
  5. Fatboy128

    Fatboy128 Well-Known Member

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    Strange, I don't get any comments on YouTube and the link you posted won't connect. Must be my smarty phone isn't so smart
  6. Marc1340

    Marc1340 Active Member

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    I think I found a nice tool I can work with, maybe drill and tap a small hole on the side and place a small bolt like a set screw to hold the tensioner in place when pulling it up off the pin and do the same when replacing. I really don't want to pull the cam is I don't have to. would you pull and replace the inner bearings while you are there? I would a few after market set up complete just need the rocker box gaskets and this tool below.
    s-l1600.jpg
  7. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    You should be fine with bearings but if you have high miles I'd replace bearings and lifters. Cheap insurance and you are already doing 99% of the work just to get to tensioners

    Might look at a cam kit with all the bits a nice mild cam would wake it up


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    You should be fine with bearings but if you have high miles I'd replace bearings and lifters. Cheap insurance and you are already doing 99% of the work just to get to tensioners

    Might look at a cam kit with all the bits a nice mild cam would wake it up


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Marc1340 likes this.
  9. Marc1340

    Marc1340 Active Member

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    Thanks HRK!!!
  10. Marc1340

    Marc1340 Active Member

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  11. Fatboy128

    Fatboy128 Well-Known Member

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    Yikes, $129 is ALMOST ok with me since I'm stateside. For a pro mechanic it would be worth it. I'm going your route. Last time I went into the cam chest it was around 26,000 miles and the tensioners looked like new. I expect that this winter I'm going to have to replace them.
    Thanks for the info!
    Marc1340 likes this.
  12. Marc1340

    Marc1340 Active Member

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    Fatboy you going with OEM or doing the conversion of the had one? just not sure what to do for my friends although I am trending to go with OEM style because you puts very little miles a year. he has only put on 3000 miles in a little over a year. Long live the 1340s
  13. Fatboy128

    Fatboy128 Well-Known Member

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    I'll be going OEM. I'd love to upgrade to the SE plate, hydra shoes and oil pump but I'm on fixed income and my yearly mileage is decreasing.
    Marc1340 likes this.
  14. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    JMO all the hoopla over going to gear drives or the new system to
    get rid of the shoes is overblown. There are several hundred thousand
    of these bikes out there, yeah it wasn't perfect but the stuff isn't blowing up all over the place,

    They are wear parts, sacrificed and not a great design, as it puts bits of plastic into the oil, oil pump, etc as they wear, but not enough to kill an engine

    When you take that bike apart, be sure to mark the orientation of the chains, you want them back on the same way they came off.

    If you have a polishing wheel or access to one, polish the outside of the chain links, get them super smooth this will reduce wear eliminate burrs if any.

    Lifters are cheap, contact CA Phil he ships overseas to a lot of folks, I think Neil has ordered parts from him. It's the right time to do them
    Fatboy128 likes this.
  15. Silent-Dutch

    Silent-Dutch Active Member

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    Marc that tool once you modify it should do just fine the cams will stay with the cam chest and just keep an eye on the needle bearings the cams set into.Let us know how its going once you get into it
  16. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Cams will come out on the TC and stay with the cam plate,
  17. Marc1340

    Marc1340 Active Member

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    Will Do Dutch, Not sure when he want to get this done. We have not checked them, he has 32,000 on her but if we pull to check we may as well replace them, why do it twice. HRK that is what I am expecting on the Cams. Will look at the bearings at the same time may order them in a Kit.
  18. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    The bearings in the cam plate are easy, cams may just come out with the bearings without much pressure, getting them off the cams you will need a press

    Inner cam bearings will require a blind hole puller, you have to be careful
    as there is a lip on the inside don't want to damage it.

    A trick is to put the parts you are installing in the freezer, these are interference fit so you can put the bearing in the freezer and the cases
    are warm, the bearing will go in easier.

    Also I think you can use a small allen from the front side of the cam plate
    to hold the rear tensioner off the chain, this is good because if you put the tensioner on the chain the cams may spread open and be harder to get into
    the inner case bearings.

    Once you get the cam plate back in, you HAVE to align the oil pump, the simple way is to not put the 4 bolts in for the pump, remove the plugs from the bike, put it in 5th, and turn the rear wheel by hand a few times, this will center the oil pump without special tools, then put in the bolts and tighten to spec.
    Marc1340 likes this.
  19. Dannyd55d

    Dannyd55d Member

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  20. Marc1340

    Marc1340 Active Member

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    Have not done the job yet, looks like we may do this in July or Aug just before we go to Portugal Mainland Europe Group ride. Have not check them either, and with 30,000 miles on the bike we should at least check them. Going to take some advise from HRK, going to talk to the friend and make sure he knows I am not a Certified Harley Mechanic as with the base gasket question on the forum question. Real good advise!! I will post some pictures if and when this job gets done!!
    Lucifer likes this.

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