88 CI to 98 CI UPGRADE

Awesome, Johnny. My clutch parts should arrive around Friday and then I will begin reassembling my clutch - all new stuff - then it's Vrrrooooooommm time!

Maybe you and me will get on the road around the same time.

Yep, I am going to throw some food down my throat and get some coffee and out to the garage I go. Will talk soon.

Should be about ready to heat cycle the bike while enjoying a beer.

I know I picked up that o-ring, now where did I put it.:cussing: I think it has happened to me at least once.

Wonder how COLD it is out there with no heater

I enjoy a cold beer at anytime but usually not until I am done with the project for the day. At least with something like this.

That had happened with only one thing during this first day of day assembly and I was able to get it because I sent the wife to go and get it..

This happens to me all the time, it for the exact reason that I don't go and put if back right away is because my tool box isn't big enough for the tools that I have, I need to get a bigger tool box.:rant:

For the first day of assembly everything went pretty good. I cannot say there were any real major issues that needed to be addressed. Knock on wood. The most major problem that had to be dealt with on Day 1 is that for some reason I did not get the Oil return o-rings that are mated from case to the bottom of the jug. I sent my wife to go and get those. She came back and all was good.

For this post I wanted to talk about the Baisley LMR Oil Spring install. This was a pretty easy thing to do once the right tools were obtained. Here is how it was done. By the way, no pictures were taken of this process so please bear with me.

Obviously the cam plate has to be free from the bike. Find yourself 2 2x4's, set them apart from each other and then bridge the cam plate onto the 2x4's. Locate the roll pin that holds in the oil pressure spring. Once you have located the roll pin, use a 3/32 roll pin punch and proceed to carefully drive the pin out. Be cognizant of the fact that there is a spring in there and it will fly out once the pin clears the edge of the spring. I suggest that you get a second pair of hands so they can place their finger over the spring bore. If you don't care that it flies out and possibly gets lost, just don't have it pointed towards anything you care about, just to be on the safe side. LOL Once the roll pin is has cleared the spring. Remove the spring and insert the Baisley LMR Oil Spring and just reverse order from removal.

For those of you that are reading this and are curious as to what the Baisley LMR Oil Spring is and what it does, I will try and explain as best I can. From listening to a lot of people and from my experience, the Harley Davidson Twin Cam in the early years had border line really low oil pressure at idle and even at operating temps. The pressures that I have seen are near zero at idle and at operating temps I have never seen them higher than 35 psi. I like to see more pressure than that, especially during the hot Minnesota summers when temps. get up in high 90's. I feel that if there is sufficient pressure, the system is being properly oiled at all times, not just at cruising rpm's. Another reason that I chose to do this is because my engine is going to need all the lubrication that it can get because of the performance upgrades that are being done. I purchased some really nice lifters and I want to keep them pumped up, especially with the adjustable pushrods.

For those of who may want to do this upgrade, I have provided a link below that shows you the spring that I purchased for my bike. make sure that you get the right one for your bike. If you look at the LMR Spring and compare it to the OEM spring, you will notice that the LMR spring is wound tighter than the OEM. the tighter winding is what allows the pressure. Enjoy the rest of the thread.

Baisley Hi-Performance Oil Spring Product

I have no idea what you're talking about, but it's interesting! I love the part with the 2x4s - I use them all time for various purposes - like for home made wheel chocks, home made jack out of 4x4s and drive wedges beneath them to raise bike off the ground, etc.

Sounds like you got it going on, brother. Hope to see some pics soon.

You will and there will be a surprise to come as well along with the fire up video.

Day 2's plan is simple, pick up from where progress ended yesterday. Yesterday the day was ended with just getting ready to bolt on the heads. There was a slight burr on both heads that had to be removed around the spark plug hole on the underside. That was no big deal at all as that was easy to remove with a Dremel and the right abrasive wheel. This bike should be running by 5 pm easy. Not long at all now. Pictures will be coming shortly, I promise.

Good luck and can't wait for the video, but I don't think you should've had to clean the heads up with a Dremel tool. I would question the headwork if it came back with a noticeable burr on it. Just sayin.

10/4

I think once JB got it fired up he left on a long long ride.

If he ever got it all back together. He should of been heat cycling it

I do believe that what it is that I saw was just casting slag. Just used a light abrasive wheel and carefully touched off the slag. Took all of but 10 sec. to clean it up.

Thank you and that is what happened. Was really careful and there was no porting work done.

Day Two is complete and everything is pretty much back together. There were a few hitches that happened but nothing that stood in the major way of progress. After Day 2, the only stuff that needed to be done was the small assembly stuff like getting the tank, floorboards, console etc. installed. Better commentary will come and better explanations of what is going on once I rest some. There was a lot of work that was done and the engine was built using hand tools with no roller tool tray.....:witsend: Makes for a lot of lost time looking for tools.

Hmm . Ya it sucks having to look for tools . It drives ya crazy . Good idea on a tool cart will be the best tool you can get for yourself!