Backfiring thru carb

am sure there are several jokes in there!! but i'm goi'n say this anyway.

I usually have to put a little greese on the boot to slip the carb into place and I think that helps it seal a little better.

The idle screw is not clogged,it does slow down when turned in.I bought a brand new HD boot and it felt about the same as the one I got with the kit.I drove it to work,on the way home it was still popping.I don't believe it these are suppose to fit,if you have one that you think would fit better please send it to me as soon as possible,this is becoming a pain in the ass,I hope this works.

When I took the plugs out before the rebuild all I can remember is that they had a lot of carbon on them,I don't recall what the electrodes looked like.But after the rebuild with the same plugs the carbon was gone.The front one almost looked normal but the rear was pure white.Then I installed new ones and I checked them yesterday they were both bone white with the front a slight coloring that's' with about 50 or sixty miles on them.I did not remove the intake manifold all I did was check to see if it was tight and it was.I did notice the old mufflers I took off before the rebuild they were all black with carbon.The new muffs are not, you can still see the metal with the rear cylinder with almost nothing.The bike ran great on the highway but the minute your at idle you just touch the throttle and it pops and will stall.I hope this helps.

could it be something as simple as the idle is set just a touch to low, trying to get that loop sound like the older H-D's - ideal idle is 900 -1000 rpm isn't it??

I just would like to know if you would charge me for that, and about how long would that take.

First I would like to say that this thread is really informative. Second, I would jump at the chance to have a FIRST RATE carb builder take a look at my carb.

Ok now down to meat. When I first got my scooter, I had similar problems to what it is that you are describing. When my bike would idle, it would be ok, but as soon as I started to roll on the throttle, I would have this dead spot and it would almost die. It was fine once I got past this spot. Now I did not get the popping that you describe right away, but eventually I did. When I brought my bike in for its 1200 upgrade, it was discovered that my accel pump was bad, replaced it and the dead spot was gone. Now this is when I started to get the popping. When the Dumbass that worked on my scooter took the carb off and apart, all he did was was increase the pilot, but not the main jet. he still didn't have it tuned because he had to turn the idle screw out like four turns to even get to idle according to him. this is not true because you pilot is useless after 2 1/2 to 3 turns out. This is when I started to get all of the popping.

I took my scooter to someone else and we increased the size of both the pilot and the main jet, but I still would occasionally get the "popping." We found that I had a head gasket leak and this could have contributed to the popping.

You said that your plugs are white. This is good indication of lean condition. Have you had any top end work done on your bike lately? How long has been since gaskets have been replaced?

Now I have absolutely no issues with my scooter.

Current carb set up= 46 pilot and a 185 main pluse the needle is slightly shimmed.

That sounds great, just give me your address and I will ship it tomorrow.

hi jacking this thread,
Hey Ken you anywhere near Encinitas or Lake Elsinore, California? I'm going to be there on May 9 thru the 13th. Would buy you a cold one if ya have time.

Do you need the air cleaner assembly?

I think it's a SE not 100/% sure,should I leave the air cleaner back plate on?

Have you had a chance to take at look the carb yet? I'm anxious to find out.