Barnett Scorpion Clutch

I doubt the cable could stretch that far also.


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Throw out bearing (pushrod bearing) went south on me once. you could hear it. Also c had no slippage. wwas making a swishy, scuffing noise when in neutral and clutch sqweezsd.

This is still the original cable.

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Could you almost mistake this noise for pinging? What convinced me yesterday that my clutch went south is that I am at the near end of the adjustment and there is to be no more than an .125 play from the ferrule and no less than .0625. I can't get it that close.

No, not in my case. deffinately sounded like metal scuffing. the little needle bearings were completely gone. If you loosen the cable adjustment completely so there is a LOT of slack in it then, adjust the pushrod bearing(tighten the locked screw in the center of the clutch assm. so it just bottoms out, then back it out a half turn or a litttle less before you lock it down. THEN adjust the cable you should be good.

This is on my Sportster, not my Road Glide. But I understand what you are saying. I backed the ramp off all the way, had absolutely no tension at the lever and I am still at or very close to the end of the adjustment on the cable.

Seems to me that you must slacken the cable then adjust the ramp leaving a tiny amount of clearance and then tighten up the cable. my bikes a big win but has 74k mi on the original cable.

The adjustment is same concept as the big twin just different design of course. I have to loosen the cable to where there is no slack the go to the adjustment screw, turn counter clockwise until I just feel resistance, then back off 1/4 turn. Then adjust cable to where there is no less then 1/16" and no more than 1/8" play from the ferrule to to lever housing. I can't get that close. not enough adjustment left in the cable. I know I am adjusting it right as it goes into all gears the way it should.

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Don't sound right to me, maybe I just don't understand you,very old, abused brain). You must loosen cable WAY or Alll the way then you should have a long way to go to tighten up the clutch adjustment down at the case then, you shouldn't have to adjust the cable very far to get the final set up.

Not in this design. There is an adjustment screw that when turned counter clockwise puts pressure on I believe the pressure plate. Then I have to back that off (clockwise) 1/4 turn. I am assuming that this allows the inner ramp to release slightly on the diaphragm spring. The cable is connected to the outer ramp.

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Well, I'm at a loss. Good luck. Maybe it's weak diaphragm or springs ???

I hope so but I am going to have to take it apart to verify that's for sure.

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I put in a 10 plate Barnette clutch ($60+bucks) in my RK when I installed the S&S V111. I'm still running the stock spring (120,000 miles). Sometimes it'll slip if I get on it in second but it has ever slipped in 4th or 5th.

I wonder if some of the really expensive stuff like what your looking at isn't just for racing. Might be over engineered for what you really need.

Just my 0.02$ where it don't belong.

I am planning on at some point to redo the engine on the Sportster so a new clutch will be needed. I can get this clutch and swap out the springs per application. This clutch comes with three different sets of clutch springs.

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Yep. Only way to know is to take it apart.

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trade it in on a new bike.
Problem solved.

Yeah-- all new problems. LOL

I'd trade it in on a Dyna Fat Bob.
Bet he ain't even rode one.