Blood, sweat, tears & beers . . .

Chucktx, Do you mean one of these?

yep, that is a test light or is that a soldering iron????

There is a section in my manual that shows how to check retarded timing with circuit tester (light). The manual says approximate timing can be obtained in this way "in an emergency". It says advanced timing should be gotten with a strobe light, and sooner than later. I happen to have one of those, too. Used it on my 350 Chevy. But it looks a lot more complicated on my shovel. Either way, it looks like a two person job.
Another thing about the "rite on time" gizmo I mentioned earlier (I haven't actually bought it yet. The order form is sitting right in front of me). Since it's only good for retarded timing, I figure if I stay with the points set up, a circuit tester will work just as good and I'll save a $100. (Thanks Tommyc & Chucktx).
But now, I'm thinking of spending $250 or more on an electronic ignition. Will it eliminate all these mechanical gymnastics? Are they as low maintenance as they say?

Been known to backslide before! I will be going with the points for now because it's what I have. The extra $$ will be better spent on things I don't have yet and get me on the road quicker. I still need to get brake lines for the rear brake and hook up a brake light gizmo. Those things I still don't have and have no idea what to get to make it all happen. Any ideas?

There are a lot of ideas that you can with for the tail light. I would probably go with the traditional bobber tail lights, best I can come up considering that there is only half a rear fender.

Yes, Cowboy, and thanks (about the oil tank).
I've had the tail light over a year now. I'm researching the J&P catalog for a brake light switch & line.

Joshbob, I'd take the modern (and easy) way to the whole brake system.

Look on e-bay or amazon for someone's take-off from a late model Softail. Some folks replace the stock rotors, calipers, masters, etc. for fancy aftermarket brands, and probably want to sell the stock stuff cheap....way cheaper than new items from J&P. Unless you want to use this bike for racing, stock system is plenty good.

Thanks, Alex. All the stuff I already have are pretty much stock. The rear rotor is 10" with a banana caliper. Pretty ordinary. I am NOT planning on racing my machine when finished. I'm just after a (hopefully) reliable road bike that will cruise around 70. My 100+ mph days are over! I'm going to post a sketch I made of what I think will work for a rear brake system. The only parts I think I need to get are: 2 brake lines, 1 elbow, 1 brake tee & 1 hydraulic switch. I would rather buy these parts new, as they are not going to break the bank. Any feedback is most welcome. Did I figure it right or . . .?

Your drawing is correct. I just looked at my bike's rear system, and it has a banjo fitting coming off the master instead of your elbow. For hoses with the fittings already on them, call J&P for these items.

Please explain how a banjo fitting works. Is it tuned like a guitar? Ha-ha! I'm out here in the sticks and I just don't get to see stuff close up as I'd like. (They all go by too fast to get a good look)!

When installed properly, it will play the brakes sweetly.

A banjo fitting is a hollow banjo-shaped bolt (for the fluid to pass through) that allows it to be rotated in any position. Takes the place of an elbow fitting, and is swaged (crimped) permanently onto the hose end.

Got it. I suppose an elbow will work as well.