Blood, sweat, tears & beers . . .

Thanks HRK & Chucktx. After looking up those part numbers, HRK, I've discovered that many automotive & bike parts are interchangeable. Stuff at car part stores are sometimes cheaper and usually better quality. For instance, I got an Accel point/condensor set (high performance) that is way better than the ones I had. On the points I had, the contacts didn't quite line up and the spring was weak. Got that tip from a biker who'd been using them for years on his shovel.
Chuck, so maybe that's why they put the caliper in the upright position to start with. I had to angle mine back farther because of the fender brace. Thanks for the tip - I'll use it.

I remember the picture you posted; the one by the brick wall. That was a cool bike. Do you still have it?

Just like I hope mine will run! Hate to sound stupid, but what size brake lines do I use? I'm going to make my own, like HRK recommends (much cheaper, as J&P wants about $30 per section for braided lines). I went to Auto Zone the other day, thinking they were all "standard", but I had a choice of 3/16", 1/4", etc. What size do I need to get? I've ordered a brake switch, an elbow for the master cylinder, & a tee that will accept the hydralic switch. Do I need to get a third section made out of rubber for the rear caliper so the wheel can be adjusted (for chain stretch when needed)?
Incidently, My exhaust is on the way from J&P. I went with 34" drags with 10" baffles. I've been told that since I'm using the old butterfly Keihin, I should be able to tweak the carb to match the custom exhaust without changing jets. The older carbs didn't have the EPA restrictions the newer ones do. Any comments?

Thanks, Chucktx.

Holy Cow! Now look what I've done. While pressing in the inner primary bearing, we went too far and busted out the shoulder on the inside. The bearing & seal are in. I have no idea what to do now.

What if I pressed the bearing & seal out and ground off the remaining material and made a steel "gasket" like the one I drew. Maybe about an 1/8" thick and bolted it on. It would be a bitch to make, cause I'd have to make it by hand, but I think I could do it.

Why does it have to be that elaborate? Couldn't it just be square with a round hole smaller than the bearing race, and with four bolt holes?

Sure, it could be square. On closer inspection, a lot of the supporting shoulder was sheared off and the bearing is now cocked in the hole. I'm thinking I might have to get another inner primary after all.

I talked with a machinist yesterday afternoon and it appears it would cost about the same, maybe more, to have the washer made and have him grind the suface flat, as to just get another used inner primary. I may go that way and next time be more careful installing the bearing. The mistake we made when we installed it was not putting any support directly beneath the shoulder. My friend (who has the hydraulic press) used an oversized socket underneath that went around the shoulder and came up to bear against the area where the 4 bolt holes are, and so when he levered the bearing down and into the housing, he punched through the shoulder. I told him it was aluminum & to be careful but he went too far. He was really bummed about breaking it. Ah, well, s*** happens. I'm gonna start looking around for another used inner primary. Maybe I'll get lucky and find one with the bearing and seal already installed.

Okay. BTW, the bolts don't go all the way through so I don't see how it will leak oil. Good news: today my rebuilt tranny arrived in the mail and it looks good and shifts smoothly, too. I also got a new kicker arm and a new mainshaft - no more wobbly kicker. They also put a polished side cover on (it matches my motor) instead of the crappy chrome one that was on it. I'm guessing that the internals were done right. the 6 month warranty (parts only) doesn't begin on the tranny or motor until I start putting milage on them. Now, I need to get that primary straight . . . HRK, what is a "pain gun"? Can I use it to end my pain? Ha-ha-ha!