Blood, sweat, tears & beers . . .

Those crush gaskets suck!!! For some dumb reason people like to reuse those and then they leak.:rant:

Yeah, it's expensive driving my 10 miles to the gallon truck. It runs good though - just drinks a lot!
I've talked with no less than 5 welders and no one can get to my welding till the end of next week. It's an hour's worth of work, tops. In the meantime, I think I'll fabricate a short chain guard to keep the oil off my backside. It'll look something like this, painted flat black, of course.
It would be nice if I had an old chain guard I could modify. I've seen some really nice replicas in the V-Twin book but I think they are pricy for what they are. Anywhere from $60 to $160 for black ones. Mine will be humble but well made out of 1/8" strap steel.

Seems to me diesel used to be cheaper than gas. Was it?

It used to be cheaper here in Canada...it's cheaper to make also...less refinement....supply and demand is the excuse big oil is using...I've read somewhere a while ago that since more personal vehicles on the road today are burning diesel instead of just big rigs and heavy equipment the demand for diesel went up BUT(here's the excuse) they don't have the storage facilities to keep up with the demand for diesel like they do for gas.... not a good excuse if you ask me....with the EXTRA profit they rake in on diesel you'd think they'd be able to build some extra diesel storage tanks,but why would they want to do that??:cussing::cussing: made me wannauke:

Well, boys, I tried to start the Beast today but . . . no dice. I figured after kicking it about 10 - 15 times something had to be wrong. Carb is getting gas, but the fuel inlet is leaking - has a crack. And I busted one of the circuit plate studs (see pic). Ordering a new fuel inlet & stud set & clear timing hole plug for when I use the strobe for advanced timing. Thought I had one of those clear plugs but can't find it.
I tested to see if there is spark at the plugs, but it is weak. I inserted a nail in the ends of the plug wires and holding the nail about a 1/4" from the rockers, I turned the crank by hand and only got a weak spark from each wire. I think there is supposed to be a blue spark and fairly strong, too. The points are set at .018" using the wide cam lobe as the manual says.
Perhaps I static timed it incorrectly - may have used the wrong timing mark. I have three timing marks on the flywheel: two drilled holes and a vertical line between the two. I know that the vertical line is for advanced timing with the strobe light. One of the other two are for retarded static timing. I also used a test light and adjusted the circuit plate as close as I could - thats when I torqued the screwdriver just a little too much and snapped off one of the studs. Later on tonight, I'm going to take the plate off and try to get the rest of it out - maybe I can get some pliers around what's left of it and back it out. I have to think about this business of not starting for awhile and try to figure out if it's the coil (Too weak of a spark) or incorrect timing, or maybe I just flooded it...?
Then, one of my old girl friends calls from California and tells me my best buddy, Coop, died of a heart attack. I met him in '78 and we played music together off and on for the next 20 some years. He wrote over two hundred folk songs, got married three times during that time, and I played at each of his weddings. We never once had a falling out . . . I was gonna try and get out to California on my scooter at some point in time and pay him a surprise visit. Well, first I gotta get the thang to START! Tough day.
At any rate, I can't do anything more until I get the new fuel inlet from J&P - dang thing leaks pretty good. Can't see where the crack is in it until it starts to leak. More time waiting . . . and waiting . . .

Managed to get the broken stud out and went to see Tattoo today. He had an old one and gave it to me. We trade parts all the time. Told me to bring the bike in Thursday evening and we'd see if we can figure out why it won't start. He loaned me a nice steel ramp to use.
Anyway, came back home and installed the new stud and it works fine. Tried to start it again and after kicking it several times noticed a pond of oil under the breather filter. It was just dripping off the filter. Correct me if I'm wrong, but this seems like way too much oil on the floor.
I'm beginning to suspect that the plug wires may be at fault. I remember shortening both of them last winter (for a custom fit) and I might not have done it right. That could account for a weak spark, right?

Yup! Took the pipes off and disconnected the breather filter and turned the hose downward, kicked it about 6 times and lots of oil came out the hose (see pic). It was still dripping when I took the picture. The pump had some oil on the bottom so I cleaned it off. This time I put a clean piece of paper under the leak to see how much oil is coming out . . . this can't be normal.
I'm going to try and find some info about this on the web.

I put in 3 quarts of 20/50. The oil tank wouldn't hold any more. Here is a diagram of the way I hooked up the oil lines. The oil tank I'm using is a side fill Paughco and has 2 bungs at the top & 1 on the bottom at the back. I'm also using a remote oil filter. I don't see how these lines could be wrong . . . unless I got the oil tank vent line & the oil filter "out" line switched at the top of the tank - but I don't think it would make any difference which way they were hooked up. No instructions came with the tank as to which of the upper bungs was the vent and which was the return. . .

How long was the oil in the tank before you tried starting it?? Did you happen to check the oil level in the tank before you tried to kick it over?? I'm thinking if the oil was in the tank for a couple of weeks it may have sumped on you.

I don't think it was more than a day or two. The oil level was within an inch of the top of the spout right after I filled it. I don't remember checking it just before kicking it over. I checked the oil level just now after I read your post and it appears to be about the same when I filled it, maybe a bit lower.
I inspected the pump as well and discovered more oil on the bottom right where the cover joins the pump body. I rechecked all the allen bolts and everything is tight. There doesn't seem to be a gasket between the pump body and the cover. Shouldn't one see evidence of the EDGE of a gasket?
Pics show current oil level in tank, oil line routing, and a close up of the oil pump that doesn't show a gasket edge.

Yeah, it'll go away...if the bike sits for a while,like over winter or a few weeks oil can/will seep past the check ball in the pump down into the case,then when you go to start it it'll puke oil out of the crank breather like your pic...oil level should be below the bottom of the fill spout though...gotta be some air space in the tank,possible you just overfilled it. Usually put 2 1/2 qts in, fire it up then add a bit if it's low,but leave about 1"air space below the fill spout...

I drained about a half quart from the oil tank to see what would happen. After kicking it 10 - 15 times the oil leak isn't so bad now - about 2" in diameter, but I think still too much. I'll try again in a few hours.
There is definitely a leak in the pump, too. I wiped it clean about 3 hours ago and when I just now ran my finger under it my finger tip was partially covered in oil - it dripped down to the cross member making a small mess. I felt all around it (the pump) and it seems it's leaking from the bottom of the pump right where the pump joins the cover. Manual says if there's a leakage problem, pump must be taken apart and gaskets replaced. I'm thinking this should have been done when the motor was rebuilt . . .

At least a gasket for the cover. It's not leaking where the pump body joins the gearcase. According to the manual, all I have to do is disconnect the oil lines and take off the bolts holding the cover on. It doesn't say so, but common sense tells me it would be best to drain all the oil out of the tank first to avoid a big mess. I know these old motors are going to leak a little here and there, but I haven't even started it yet!
I went out around 3 AM and cranked the thing maybe 5 or 6 times and about a 3" puddle of oil dripped to the floor. I saw this oil collector gizmo in the J&P catalog and I am going to get it & a gasket .Hopefully, these will solve the leak/drip problem.