Blood, sweat, tears & beers . . .

That looks like a good read.. Glad you got it figured out JoshBob.

That is some good info, thanks! A biker I read about once has been using automotive high performance points on his shovel for decades. Swears by them. Those are the ones I have now.

LOL....how did you make out with Harley getting a points coil....Here's a link for HRK's buddy Calif Phil and a points coil....
http://www.harleypartscheap.com/productdetail.htm?productId=10699366&catalogId=&searchProducts=points%20ignition

Don't mean anything for trying a dealership,but now days Harley dealerships are Boutiques,not bike shops...heck,my bottom breathing Evo is obsolete in Harley's eyes...my buddies son went to the dealership here recently with his '56 K model and they didn't have a clue it was even a Harley:roflmao:

The '56 K was Elvis's bike, I remember. As far as dealerships, some are better than others. When I called Harley about the coil, the person on the phone had to ask somebody else about it. Nothing in stock was the answer I got.
You got to be kidding about the K model, right?

When I first got the engine done on my bike the owner of the shop had a 56k. I thought it was a Sportster but it wasn't. the Sportster wasn't revealed until a couple of years later. Cool bike though that is for sure.

No,I'm not kidding...the owner would have known,if he was there...it was the people out front,parts guy's, service manager and salesman, not the wrenches...kinda sad if you ask me...

JB '57 was the 1st year for Sporties...

Just ordered some stuff: static timer, studs for the breaker plate (broke one), dialectric grease, NEW COIL(!), fuel inlet for carb (mine leaks), extra plugs & tail light bulbs.
I called J&P last night about timing my '77 shovel and I got an interesting bit of info. The reason I called is because when I set the timing dot for the front cylinder (just after compression stroke), manual says to turn the breaker plate till the points begin to open on the small cam lobe. Well, guess what - I couldn't turn the breaker plate far enough - ran out of slot, points would not open. WTH? So, I took the whole assembly out and filed the slots longer, and put everything back in. I know, that's the hillbilly way to do things, but points would open now when I adjusted the breaker plate - but - that was apparently the wrong thing to do. I figured it was some Chinese crap and that they didn't make the slots long enough. Happens all the time with that overseas junk.
What J&P told me over the phone, and this wasn't in the manual by the way, was that I had to turn the cam itself counterclockwise and hold it there while I try to turn the breaker plate clockwise until the points open. Am I clear so far? Well, in order to do that, I had to loosen the bolt on the end of the cam so it would turn. When I did that, the cam wobbled around so much that I could not set the points. Impossible. WTH? So, I'm ordering this static timer gizmo ($16) and it's supposed to help me time the ignition correctly (though I haven't the faintest idea how) and also help eliminate kickback, or so it claims. I'll bet anybody out there that it doesn't come with instructions! J&P tells me I don't need it, but WHEW!! I'm ready to try anything at this point. What gives with this timing crap? I thought it was pretty straightforward.
Pic is from the manual how to static time the ignition for anyone interested:

I looked over the other EI's they had and liked the one Crane has for $160. That's a reasonable price and it has a kickstart function that (it claims) eliminates kickback. Now, that would be nice. I looked in the V-Twin book and the same unit sells for around $130. I'm not understanding why there is such a price differential. Maybe the price has gone up since the catalog came out.
But I'm trying to fathom why things aren't working out on the points set up. I'd really like to know! Perhaps once I get it figured out, with the help of others, of course, then maybe I'll go with an EI if I find the points too troublesome. I just don't remember the points being such a big deal when I rode before. Tattoo tells me the electronic ignition he installed in his scooter has made his life easier, especially since he put bigger jugs on. He still kick starts it, too.

Johnny, it's a really cool book - a school kid could understand it, well, at least most of it.
I HOPE I got it figured out. When the new coil arrives, we'll see!

My oil pump gasket came in and it's not the right one. Man, it's always something - am I beginning to sound like a broken record? It's always something click something click something . . .
So, to make a long story longer, I took the cover off the pump and discovered that it did indeed have a gasket - a paper one that was in excellent condition. I cleaned all surfaces, including the gasket itself and put it back on. Tightened the 4 allen bolts to what I estimated to be around 45 inch lbs. (don't ask), refilled the oil tank and kicked the thing over about a dozen times and . . . no leaks! It is scavenging better, too - very little oil dripping out the breather hose. My brothers, something has finally gone right!!!

Hey, I like Green Acres - the Walton's, too! They all had crank phones. If I decide to go with EI, I'll get in touch with Calif. Phil - probably get a better price than J&P, whose prices are high. They do have an excellent customer service dept. though.
Saw Tattoo today and there were a couple of shovel owners there and they said that when the bike sits for a long time, like mine has, it will puke out a lot of oil. It'll settle down once the bike starts getting ridden, but still shoot oil out the breather, though not as much. So, an oil collector/breather filter is a good idea. they all have one on their bikes, Tattoo included.

Did something really STUPID - (Tommyc, where are you? Ha-ha.) Anyway, like I said, I put the oil pump back together and it didn't leak at first. When I came out the following morning and felt under the pump there was oil under it, though not as much as before. I got out my trusty 3/16" allen wrench and proceeded to tighten all the bolts down a little more and . . . I overtightened the lowest one on the inside and it stripped the threads. S.O.B! I almost cried! It's still holding some, but it leaks, though not very much; I'd say the equivalent of 3 or 4 drops overnight. I guess I have 2 options here. 1.) I can wait till I start it up and ride it around a while and see how bad it leaks, I might be able to live with a few drops, and if too much, then fix it. OR, 2.) I can take the entire pump off NOW, so I can get a helicoil in the stripped hole. The stripped hole is actually in the crankcase. I think I'll have enough room to use an angle drill to get between the tranny and the crankcase. This means I have to get new gaskets for the pump & cover and possibly a "short" rebuild kit for the pump (gaskets, drive shaft key & snap ring). Any suggestions? Now or later? Will the leak get worse with time?
Boys, I'm a bit embarrassed putting this post up, but it seems I'm not much better than my students here at school. I always tell them when they mess something up, "If something can get messed up in shop, you guys will find a way to do it!" Nothing like humble pie first thing in the morning to start my day . . . I'm also going to have to buy a torque wrench with inch lb. settings and a set of allen wrenches to fit it, and a pair of snap ring pliers. Sears. LHM (Lord have mercy)!

Okay. I didn't think about oil getting on everything - it's not much now but will probably get worse later. I need a cup of coffee. It's Sunday morning, Mac the Wife is still in bed and it's raining. After church, I'll drain the oil again and take off the whole pump. Thanks.