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Blood, sweat, tears & beers . . .

Discussion in 'Pull up a chair and sit for a spell' started by joshbob, Apr 6, 2011.

  1. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Hopefully it starts right up and is worth
    it with the cv over the older carb it should be
  2. joshbob

    joshbob Well-Known Member

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    My farmer mechanic buddy is coming over today to inspect the crankshaft. He is very good at diagnostic stuff and fixing things mechanical. He wanted to look at it before I put another seal in. First pic is old seal.

    Attached Files:

  3. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    It appears from the first picture
    that the top edge of the rubber seal
    is flattened, wonder if it got
    out of shape on install...
  4. joshbob

    joshbob Well-Known Member

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    I warped it when I pulled it out - It went in straight. I was told today to set the seal in slightly past where it would usually go. I have read somewhere not to install these seals in too far. The shaft does have some wear, but not bad. We noticed a shallow nick about a 1/4" long in the shaft that the seal would have to pass over - it could have compromised the previous seals - maybe. I'm taking some emory paper to it as I can feel some raised metal at the end of it. How in the world did that happen, I wonder?

    Also, I'm wondering if that spacer (as it's called) will come out and a new one can be installed without too much difficulty. A new surface for the seal would be ideal. I tried pulling it out with my fingers but to no avail. Maybe it's a press fit or something. Once again, the manual is not clear on this . . . Will look on the shovel forums . . .
  5. joshbob

    joshbob Well-Known Member

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    My CV flange adaptor came in today (see pic) and it's a press fit, metal to metal - no rubber seal. Looks like I might have to use a hydraulic press - it's a mighty tight fit.

    Concerning the crankshaft oil seal leak, got some feedback from ShovelheadUS. One guy says to push the seal in all the way until it seats (spring side facing the motor), but I remember reading elsewhere that it's a bad idea to push the seal in too far.
    I think I'll try driving the seal in just past where the lips of the older seals were before. I think that would be a good compromise.

    Attached Files:

  6. Lucifer

    Lucifer Well-Known Member

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    I was flipping through the Shovel Head section on HTT this morning...there was a thread there "press on adapter" one guy said he used red loctite as a lubricant to install and once set it was a sealer and also if you used JB weld it's on and staying on...with the loctite if you ever wanted to take the adapter off you can use heat to remove it....
  7. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    just make sure you have it lined up correctly so it's
    straight up and down.

    I would put red locktite on it and that will be the lube
    then let it dry 24 hours as that is the normal time it takes
    the stuff to setup.

    Go on and put it on while the locktite is wet and align
    the carb.
  8. Lucifer

    Lucifer Well-Known Member

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    Joshbob you could try putting the carb in the freezer for a while and heat the adapter...I've done that installing clutch hub bearings and they dropped right in...
  9. MountainCruiser

    MountainCruiser Well-Known Member

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    That's a cool trick...
  10. joshbob

    joshbob Well-Known Member

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    Sounds good. I'll try it. I'll stick the carb in the freezer several hours and when ready, I guess I'll submerge the flange in boiling water on the stove for maybe 15 minutes. I have no other way to heat it up. Worth a try, I guess. Then I'll try the red locktite route . . .
  11. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Build a fire in the wood stove and put on top. Leave out in sun. Just keep it in house warm. Put in oven 200 degrees warm. Use wife's oven mitts get dirty look but no burned fingers


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. joshbob

    joshbob Well-Known Member

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    The last thing I'd do is stick it in the oven. I'd get more than a dirty look - a few choice words would be in order! And she might just (as I said on another thread this morning) try to "hurt me"!
    Good idea about the wood stove, though - and it keeps me clear of the kitchen.

    The bowl allen screws & choke adaptor (mounts to carb) arrived today from CVP - it took 13 days - but no stage 1 kit. Maybe next week. See how stuff just trickles in? It's maddening!!
    Last edited: Nov 19, 2011
  13. joshbob

    joshbob Well-Known Member

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    Here's a story that makes my head hurt. I went out to my shop today to see if there were any user parts I could save off my old butterfly carb. Remember when I said I couldn't get it to idle right? well, I took the bowl off thinking to save the jets and fuel needle and I found a rubber plug blocking the slow jet! Can you guys believe that? Look at these pics.

    Attached Files:

  14. joshbob

    joshbob Well-Known Member

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    What, no comment on the blocked jet on the butterfly carb? Surely that rubber plug didn't belong there, right? (See previous post pictures) This was before I knew much about jets. Thought they were things Chuck Yeager flew around in.

    After freezing the carb overnight and boiling the CV flange adaptor this afternoon, the parts went together pretty good. Had to pound them into submission with a hickory mallet but it came out very tight and straight. Slathered red locktite in the flange for lube and a seal before assembling. I don't think it's EVER gonna come apart!
  15. Lucifer

    Lucifer Well-Known Member

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    Slathered red loctite....I'd say you got her secured LOL

    The plug is supposed to be there,low speed jet should be under it...I don't know why or what it's for but it's in the carbs from '76-Early '78....part # 27385-76...pic of it in my Parts catalog...
  16. joshbob

    joshbob Well-Known Member

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    I just went back out to the shop after seeing your post and pulled the carb out of the trashcan and took a closer look. There is a small hole going into the slow jet chamber from the emulsion tube chamber. You can't get the emulsion tube out as it's pinned in. So it looks as if the fuel has to go thru this hole under the rubber plug via the emulsion tube. Kinda strange to me. Well, as I'm understanding carbs a little better now, it's easy to see why the CV is so much better than the butterfly and I'm glad I switched.
  17. cowboy

    cowboy Moderator Staff Member

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    Josh just Wate & you'll really see that the cv is by far the best carb harley ever used :)
  18. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Don't trash that carb
    Put it on craigslist someone will
    buy it to rebuild another get some bucks back
    or mount it on the wall of your shed

    everyone needs a parts wall of fame..!
  19. joshbob

    joshbob Well-Known Member

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    "Wall of Shame" would be more like it. I wouldn't inflict that carb on anybody - it's going out in the trash because I don't want to be reminded of all the lost time & money it cost me!:cussing:
  20. Lucifer

    Lucifer Well-Known Member

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    Yeah,don't toss it...you know the old saying"One mans junk is another mans treasure"

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