Blood, sweat, tears & beers . . .

Almost! This morning is my first real opportunity to get into town and get the screws. But as I said a few posts back, I can't ride yet. My clutch cable burned all the way thru before I noticed it. The only thing I can do is remove the bottom oil tank bracket which has the tab on it where the clutch cable attaches. I did that yesterday and began mods on it. I cut the tab off and will fabricate an extra piece of metal so I can move the cable tab 3/4" further away from the cylinder fins (see pic.) I'm also getting my custom chain guard welded up - right now it's held together with super glue! (see other pic).

I discovered another oil leak coming out of one of the front cylinder head bolts (see pic - I'm pointing where the leak is). This is most disturbing to me. I tried tightening it but it's very tight already. Book calls for for 65 ft. lbs. but I can't get my torque wrench on it. This is a new leak. Maybe the gasket is blown?

The heads have to be re-torqued a couple of times after each heat cycle...I think after the initial start up and after 50 and 100 miles...I'm not sure of the correct procedure, but I'm pretty sure Chuck and Kirby do

That's great news if that's what it is! (Called Harley out of curiosity and the head tech said $400 to install a new head gasket). He said they don't like working on shovelheads, but would make an exception in my case since he was impressed an old fart like me would even attempt building my own bike from scratch. But you see, it didn't leak at the head bolt the first 5 or 6 times I started it up - just this last time - and it seems very likely the heads simply need to be retorqued. I certainly hope that is the case! Maybe I can get Tattoo to help me as my torque wrench will not allow me to get the socket squarely on the bolt head. The book says to torque the heads down a little bit on each bolt (about a quarter turn) till 65 ft. lbs. is achieved, but does not give a particular sequence. I know a quarter turn will not be necessary; probably just a tweak on each of the bolts.

The screws & retainer were in stock at Harley. I'm going to pick them up now. I'm hoping to get the welding done tomorrow by my farm mechanic buddy who has a MIG welder. Like I may have said before, his welds ain't the prettiest, but they're solid and they're free!

I am going to use the clutch cable I have. I inspected it closely with a magnifying glass and it didn't quite burn all the way thru to the wire, but did burn thru the black casing.

Hope to get the welding done today - I'm doing a little woodworking for my welder, so we exchange labor that way.

Last night got the left side of the motor buttoned back up. Tattoo is closed until after New Years, then I'm gonna ride to his shop in Tarboro and check the torque on the head bolts . . . .

Hmmm...not sure if I'd ride it there...I'd check it out first to see if its safe to do so with the head gasket leaking,wouldn't want to blow it out...PM Kirby and/or Chuck and ask Tattoo Tony if it's OK to ride it or not....
Hate to see you this close to finishing then blowing a head gasket...

I got a swivel socket on the bolts today and retorqued them with my torque wrench. It didn't seem like they moved at all. Don't know yet if that will stop the leak. When I get the other things fixed, I'll start it up and idle and see if it still leaks . . . .

This is where an experienced shovel guy could help(I ain't one of 'em)..is re-torquing just putting the torque wrench on and tightening or is it backing them off a little and re-torquing???

Not a pro, but when I torque something down, I use a staggered pattern. I continuously go through the sequence until all are torqued evenly. Remember, when bolt A is torqued, bolt b is no longer at the same spec. If you just go through the pattern once, you really aren't torqued to spec because everything is now being seated properly.. Just my thoughts.

That is a real good point. I don't know either, but that is what I would do Josh. Back off a bit, then re-torq.

it has been sitting for a couple of years, I'd just ride the thing for a bit and then see how things look. It needs to get good and hot a few times so things settle in. 5 or 10 minutes here and there don't help an engine settle in to it's own. If you think you have to tear it down again anyway why not run it some first, it's at best a 25 year old motor with some new parts. Give it some run time before you do anything else. JMO

my last thought on the subject,
With all you've been through working on this bad boy, you could do the gaskets yourself and save money. You have the skill and patience to do it.
Maybe your engine builder wasn't such a top notch guy, so try it yourself you can do it.

It's more like 35 yrs old...time is just flying by I did learn re-torquing the heads on a new build shovel is part of the break in sequence...I don't know if he ran it enough to need the 1st re-torque or not...but with a leaking head I'm kinda thinking it does need one...

Ride it I shall. Tired of all this dicking around. As soon as I get the oil tank bracket welded and installed, I'm going for a ride . . . .