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Blood, sweat, tears & beers . . .

Discussion in 'Pull up a chair and sit for a spell' started by joshbob, Apr 6, 2011.

  1. bguillory66

    bguillory66 Active Member

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    like them seet tater fries n baked with butter n pie with sweet dough n candied...redneck bud ain't bas either when some else is buying:roflmao:
  2. FLHTbiker

    FLHTbiker Moderator Staff Member

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    I'm glad I don't live in the south, you guys eat way to good. I would be in the hospital having another by-pass, :D
  3. cowboy

    cowboy Moderator Staff Member

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    thats why you had the first one you don't eat this good :D
  4. charlie46

    charlie46 Well-Known Member

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    Oh boy are they ever!. Make em yourself,spinkle a little sugar on them too.:rolleyes:
  5. HarleysLR

    HarleysLR Active Member

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    be careful, easy to break something with that much leverage,
    (experience talking on this one)
  6. joshbob

    joshbob Well-Known Member

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    Yup. I just moved the wrench a wee bit until it moved the bolt head a little. You listen for a screech - no more than that. The head bolts would be very near to specs anyway - only takes a tweak.

    A good way to practice to get a feel for the right torque is to clamp the same size bolt in a vise, set the torque wrench to (in my case) 65 ft. lbs. and turn on the bolt head until the wrench clicks and gives. I practiced that a few times before I actually tightened the head bolts down. That gets 'em pretty close. Also have to use the same distance to the end of the handle.

    Not terribly scientific, but it works. Like you say - you gotta be careful not to break something.
  7. FLHTbiker

    FLHTbiker Moderator Staff Member

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    Was wondering if you considered that, glad you didn't over torque it.:)
  8. FLHTbiker

    FLHTbiker Moderator Staff Member

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  9. joshbob

    joshbob Well-Known Member

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    I think I got 'em pretty close. Tattoo says you don't have to worry about going over torque specs because the older iron heads & barrels can take it better than the newer aluminum alloy ones. Makes sense to me.
    I had to loosen my carb bracket so I could get to the head bolts just behind the carb - that was the only complication.
  10. joshbob

    joshbob Well-Known Member

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    Still got the big chill going on here, but it's gonna warm up pretty good the next few days. Spring's just around the corner, boys. Hoping I'll be good to go.

    Tattoo Tony says I should take my 10" baffles out, but I'm leaving 'em in. I think a little back pressure is a good thing. He runs his home made drags open and with his oversize motor, man, those things be barking! Don't think I could ride long with all that racket going on. Besides, there's The Man to worry about . . . and touch off neighbors, all of whom own firearms . . .:rolleyes:
  11. FLHTbiker

    FLHTbiker Moderator Staff Member

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    A bit of pressure is good, better power and save the ears. :)
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2012
  12. joshbob

    joshbob Well-Known Member

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    Started the ol' hog up today but didn't ride - let it idle a few minutes. There's still a small bit of oil coming out the front head bolt. It's the only oil leak on the whole machine - and boys, that's sayin' something - considering how many leaks I had to deal with.

    So, even after retorquing the head bolts, I still have that pesky little leak. When the motor gets up to operating temperature, it very nearly dries up. After a ride, I only have a bit of residue around the bolt. I'm not too concerned about it - or should I be?

    Well, after posting this leak problem on the shovel forum, I got two ideas. One was to replace the washer with a stainless one. The other was more drastic: if there's an insert in that bolt hole, it could have pulled out a little and the head won't seat. I'd have to pull the head to find out. Ouch! He also says not to run the motor any more - could blow the head gasket.:witsend:
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2012
  13. joshbob

    joshbob Well-Known Member

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    Looks like I'm gonna have to take the front cylinder head off. The manual is pretty clear how to perform this job, but no info on the diagnostic end of it once it's off. Could be insert has come loose, or a crack in the head, or a blown or oil fouled head gasket, or who knows what.

    After I get everything apart, I'll try and get Tattoo out here to help with the diagnostic end of things. Looks like a couple months of down time . . .:cussing:
  14. chucktx

    chucktx Moderator Staff Member

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    this is just me, but i would ride it for a while.......why be down during the best part of riding season???? see how things pan out after some miles on it.............
  15. charlie46

    charlie46 Well-Known Member

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    I agree with chucktx. Run it just don't thrash it.Maybe replace the washer. If you blow the head gasket,not so bad.
  16. HarleysLR

    HarleysLR Active Member

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    I agree with Chucktx, if you run and blow the head gasket, well you were going to replace it anyway when you pull the cylinder off, remember it's old and will most likely leak oil from someplace. Besides you have the front brakes to work on.
  17. FLHTbiker

    FLHTbiker Moderator Staff Member

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    Yep, good advice there Chuck
  18. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Yeah it's just a drop and it stops when it warms up
    tells me when the engine warms up it expands and closes the
    gap.

    Is the leak at the bolt?

    Loosen it, remove, replace washer, put a light amount
    of oil on the threads so you get proper torque even if you
    are using an "Armstrong Torque Wrench" Tighten.

    Loosen, Re torque.

    Ride, heck if ya have to you could put some black
    high temp silicone around the base of the bolt/washer
    it's oil resistant and might stop the leak

    If it runs and isn't loose ride it and take her easy
    no wheelies and burn outs at the local choke n puke to
    impress the waitress for a piece of pie....
  19. joshbob

    joshbob Well-Known Member

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    Ha-ha -you guys are something! Thanks. My engine builder, who I called this morning after I posted said pretty much the same thing. He said to spray some silver paint on the washer after cleaning oil off of everything, put a little bit of oil on the threads and torque down to 65 ft. lbs.

    Another fellow on the shovel forum said the same.

    However, another guy said not to ride it until I tear the head off and see what's what. He said that oil has to be getting on the gasket from somewhere (most likely the oil return) and leaking down the bolt shank and out onto the barrel. But I detect no oil leaking around the head gasket - only around the bolt. The head gasket is a fire ring type, which I believe is thicker on the inside for a better seal.

    Okay, I'll take the bolt out, spray paint the washer and stick it back in. I don't have any spare head bolt washers.

    Just took out the bolt - it was loaded with oil all the way up - left a quarter sized puddle on the floor. Going back out and prep everything and reinstall . . . used copper gasket paint to coat the washer & torqued the bolt back on. Going out tomorrow and start the bike and see if it leaks.
    Last edited: Mar 8, 2012
  20. chucktx

    chucktx Moderator Staff Member

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    make sure ya remove all the oil from the bolt hole.........ya dont need a hydraulic lock on the bolt to break something.......

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