Cam bearings

Wrong!

Read my post, didn't say tight, said snug as in finger tight. Works perfect every time. You don't need or have to have the alignment dowels. Rotating rear wheel in 5th gear will align it and you will be fine.

JMHO...when I do a cam job I install the oil pump into the cam chest first, them the cam plate assembly. I do this for a few reasons. It's easier to align the gerotors of the pump with the pinion shaft, because you can see them.

On the back side of the pump you have the port that sumps oil from the flywheel side of the engine cases. Buy not having the cam plate blocking your view, it's a lot easier to see that the port is properly seated in the o-ring that fits into the bore of the engine case. There have been a couple cases where this o-ring has been cut or pinched when the cam plate and oil pump have been installed as an assembly. But I would attribute this to inexperience or lack of attention on the mechanics part.

Finally, without the oil pump attached to it, the cam plate assembly is eaiser to install. Slide it over the pinion shaft and set the cam sticks into the inner bearings. And again, like HRK and few others have said, the cam plate needs to be torqued to spec first, then you will need to rotate the rear wheel as you tighten the pump screws. So there's my 2 cents worth

I totally understand your point. I just have it down now with oiling the seals and pump and have no problem slipping it in as a one piece unit by rocking the rear tire back and forth. No prob aligning oil pump gears either. Both ways are good. What ever works, do it.

Does anybody know...Do I need to go back in and replace my inner cam bearings before running it? I already buttoned things up all but the pipes and tank after replacing my busted Fueling oil pump. I did not think about doing the inner cam bearings while I was in there. They were put in just 10,000 miles ago. The outer cam bearings are covered because I replaced my OE cam plate with a Fueling cam plate because the pressure relief valve was stuck in the stock one. Fueling put my cams into their cam plate for me when I sent mine to them to look at along with the broken oil pump. The inner are Torrington 10k miles new when the Andrews cams and S&S gears went in with the original Fueling pump at the time the cylinders were bored out to a 95" and the 10:1 Harley pistons went in 10k miles back. What do think? Run 'em or take it back apart?

if their the stock HD bearings,ide replace them with torringtons

Yep !

You skipped a step.

Technically you should replace them anytime you have removed the cam plate assembly. Also, knowing that the oil pump broke, I would have replaced them without question, regardless of milage. IMHO, not spending the $20 for a new set cold cost you a lot more if they fail.

He said they're already Torrington replacements 10,000 miles ago.They're quality bearings with not many miles on them......I say leave them in.

The rule is to replace em every time the cams are pulled and the gaskets

i didnt read where he already had the torringtons installed,is so your fine to go,no need to replace them again @ 10,000 miles

Thanks for all the good feedback.
I know I shoulda, I surley coulda, I really woulda... But considering I shut down right when she took 'er Sh*t... and, Considering I already buttoned up and..., I don't have the inner bearing tool in my box... I think I'm gonna flush a quart through with the return line into a coffee can, spin on a new filter, top off, run about 50 miles and change the oil and filter again. then while I'm burnin' off another Dunlop over the next 2500-3000 miles I'll assume no debris damage and hope for the best.
By the way... 35k on the bike and been through 14 rear tires. The local dealer service manager won't warranty the Dunlop. I told 'em They should get more then 3000 miles and I shouldn't need a new one every time I bought an oil filter. He just smiled and said "F**k you Dave". Dunlop must love me. $$$

Ya just got to wait and give yerself time. You are gonna need about a year if you try to walk on them a little everyday.
If you don't try to use them at least a little , you will be set back more.
They are stiff I would bet and hurt like hell. But you have to fight.
Good luck Cowboy.

You must be doing burn-outs at every stop to only get 3,000 miles on rear Dunlop. My original tires were D402's and I went over 18,000 on the back one and 27,000 on front. Try the D402's if you still want Dunlops.

Thanks AlexTheDog,
I started out with a 402 then when I switched up to a 150 width I had to go to a 401. I tried the K591 and anything that would fit. It doesn't matter what I run, as long as I'm burnin' it off from every stop I'll never get any better mileage out of 'em.
Now on the front I only got 19,000 and that one don't even smoke.