Cam Change

Compression releases has to do with crankin the bike on a High compression
Build.
It has nothin to do with the sound comin from the exhaust.
Thought all you was doing was puttin cams in for now.
Didn't know you was talkn about already doing a 103.

Did some calling around this week. I came to the point that a cam change isn't worth the money or effort. If I go in that far I will do a 103 kit. As it sits now I would install Woods 6-6 cam. Will have to wait till next year and see how the economy is doing. Parked the bike for the winter and already miss riding.

Doing a cam change will make a Big Difference if you go with the right cam.
And while everything is slow in the winter, its the perfect time to do it.
Won't git into yer riding time.

Just my personal thoughts. A cam is the one thing internally that makes the most difference in a 4 cycle engine and is the easiest thing to change, not necessarily the cheapest. Sure more Cubic Inches equal more horsepower but a cam can also give more useable horsepower for way less hassle. If your going to go big bore you need to change the cam anyway, try the cam first and see how you like it. It’ll pull much harder and the speed limit is still only 75 on the interstate.

Cams are money well spent cheap torque!

Bit off topic. How does your bike run at high elevation? I grew up in Rifle and am planning on moving back to the Denver area next year. Is your fat glide injected or carbed?
Looking forward to riding around Durango and Silverton area. Thanks for the post.

It runs great at any altitude, it is has a CV Performance parts modified carburetor right down to the V-ductor I just installed. I have never fouled a plug and I don’t have to choke it unless it is real cold. I do have to hold the idle a little high until it warms up a bit. My cams pull real hard threw the entire power band and I have plenty of torque. Never have had it on a dyno and probably won’t. They are hard on equipment. High elevation is all we ride in the summer months, heck we live at 6,100 ft. As Cardboard says you have to thing whole package. If and when you get cams get some that will work with the next size up motor. There are lots of good ones out there. I happen to like S&S products, or Andrews. All the big name guys do a lot research on their products.

When you get moved back give us a shout or as they say in Texas a holler...

I would like to compare the numbers and see the dyno results for a 96" Harley that has the Woods6-6 cam and compare them to the Andrews tw-54. I would like to start with a cam change and use the same cams when I get the 103" work done. I realize the bike used would have to have the same exhaust (V&H dresser dual with basic slip ons) with a Big Sucker air filter that is on my bike for the comparisons to be close. Do the manufactures have these dyno sheets? Is there a website that has these sheets as a data base? I also realize all bikes are slightly different, but I bet the dyno sheets would go a long way in helping make up my mind.

tknight1

What you want is the cam that will pull the hardest from Point A to Point B.:gah:

Yes, I agree, I want the cam that will pull the hardest. But for my bike and the way it is set up, I do not want to use the trial and error method. This would be too costly if I make the wrong pick as my first choice for a new cam. I would like to look at the dyno sheets for a comparible bike and set up and then make the best decision.

tknight1

No 2 bikes are gonna be the same.

I will post this but it is irrelivent. Cause there are different dyno models.
Different altitude, heat, moisture, etc.
Not to mention the typed of air breathers, pipes, cams etc.

Here is my dyno on a dyno that is very conservative.

I did a mild build, 9.8.1, R&R stage II heads, 95" JE pistons, TW6 woods cams and a PCV tuner.

If you want to do higher compression it will yeild more Hp.

Its 100hp and 104 tq.

The site cardboard gave has the dyno's for the woods and the specs - lift and durations that should allow you to compare to any other cam. I wouldn't be concerned with high torque #s and HP all you need is a good pull through your average RPM. Unless you have to pass cars already doing 75mph good torque through 5500-6000 would be more than enough. Again like cb said good pull from A - B is what you have to look for.

If yer doing 75, downshift to 4th and twist the throttle and hold on, it will pull to over 100mph.
I passed the other day and hit 100 on the bagger in 3rd gear and was at 5200rpm or so.:rant:

Big thing, Transmission and frame,

Don't forget the gas money - with power comes "Twisting Throttle Disease" and so goes fuel economy!