Carb cough . . .

Hmm . . . but I like to blip . . .

After changing back to the Champion RN12YC plugs and regapping the points (they were less than the .028" they are now), the hesitation and coughing disappeared. I also checked the lifters and only one was a bit tight. It runs good and I was able to start it up after a 7 mile warmup on the first kick.

Got home and put some Seafoam in the gas tank and in the oil bag. It won't hurt to try and clean the carbon deposits out of the motor and gum deposits out of the carb, etc.

And . . . I can blip all I want.

I replaced the points ignition with a HI-4N. After trying to set timing with it mounted upside down had to take the ride to a custom cycle shop to get the timing set. Since the shop is at a lot lower altitude was told I had to reset the carb when I took it home. The shop even found out the accelerater pump wasn't working and fixed it. They sugjested that the intermediate jet ought to be 26. Since it was 265 I changed it yesterday. Now it ran a lot worse. The sugjested main jet is 66 and it was allready in use. I just had to wonder if a thousand CC ironhead needs a slightly larger intermediate jet than the smaller engine ones.
I also have to figure out if some dirty gas could have messed up some carb part used in low rpms. I just have to learn how to solve puzzles without a sledge hammer.

Those jet sizes don't sound right to me - unless the ol' ironhead jets are radically different from other V-twins. There are only 2 jets: pilot and main. The pilot, or low speed jet usually runs in the mid to upper 40s. The main jet somewhere in the upper 100s. The ones in my shovelhead are 46 x 185. Never heard of an intermediate jet.

If you are running a CV carb, it self adjusts for altitude.

That would be a S&S carb....here's a little tuning info...

S&S Cycle | Carb Quick Guide

and another with a jet chart....

http://www.millerscustomparts.us/sandscarbtuningtips.htm

LMFAO!!!:roflmao::roflmao:

Well . . . soytainly not the guy in the pic! The Tattoo I know is pretty knowledgeable about bikes.

So, it ended up being a combination of things that cured the hesitation & coughing. Changed back to the Champion RN12YC plugs, adjusted the idle mix screw up from 1 1/2 to 2 full turns, regapped the points, checked the lifters & added Seafoam to the gas (about 1 oz. per gallon). Not exactly sure what did the trick - maybe it was a combination of them all.

I have a question about the Seafoam - should I continue to use it FOREVER - like every time I put in some gas add Seafoam (1 oz. per gallon)? I also put 4 oz. in the oil bag. I think I will add it to the oil each time I change it (about every 3000 miles or so).

Oh, I see. The S&S carb is quite different from the CV. I thought he was running a CV carb. Sorry, Shovelhead13, didn't mean to give you the wrong info. Maybe you oughta switch to a CV carb -

In fuel I use it only a couple of times a year and as a fuel stabilizer over the winter....I've never added it to the engine oil,but if I did,I would only add it around 50 miles before an oil change,then drain and refill with fresh oil only....but I've never felt the need to add it to oil since it's changed pretty frequently anyway(3000 miles with fossil)

:roflmao:You have a way with words HRK...

Okay boys, and thanks. Only every now and then it is with the Ex-Lax!:roflmao:

I use that sea foam very carefully. The two gas tanks hold 2 and 1/2 gallons. It's just that the hose conecting the don't really drain them fully. If reserve runs out one just has to lean the motorcycle over toward the petcock and make it to a gas station. the manual say one should work to the right jets. It also said the jets will work at up to 7,000 miles in different altitudes. One just has to readjust the carb. I just hope to get it running right before the cold weather hits.

I've been keeping a jet log while trying to hit bull's eye. I just tried I hope a 25 intermediate jet and 44 main jet. That suggested small 25 got tried before. I figured out, I think, why it back fires a nd coughs a little bit. The numbers it is marked with aren't perfect. The 2 is easy to red it's just the second one isn't a clear 5. I'm going to have to try a for sure 25.

looking at the chart I posted your .025 intermediate and .044 main jets look small...for 55-74"( your 1000cc=61") should be a .0265-0295 int and a .062-.072 main 1- 1.5 turns out with the idle mix...

http://www.millerscustomparts.us/sandscarbtuningtips.htm

Twice now I've gotten a misfire when starting. It'll just go BANG and takes multiple mucho kicks to start it - this when usually cold. It is harder to start now that the outside temps are starting to drop. Sometimes it'll start first kick when warm, and at other times it'll take cleaning out before it'll start. Thought I had this all sorted out . . . had to kick my brains out yesterday trying to get the ol' girl going. Maybe 25 kicks . . . yikes! But the ol' right leg & knee are fine today. Kicked at least 50 times yesterday total.

The carb settings and fuel delivery are fine. Carb jets are 46 x 185 with 1 3/4 turns out on the mix screw; CVP tuners kit set according to Ken's instructions. So I don't think the carb is causing this. Now I'm thinking I might need to check the timing & points. There is an oil leak behind the points plate that I have tried to fix twice, but no oil seems to be getting on the points themselves. Tattoo says that if oil gets on the points it will cause hard starting or no starting at all. Of course, I still have that oil leak coming down the rear rocker box and when I start it when warm, it'll puff out white smoke for a second. I am going to address this in about another month. Could the slightly fouled plug be contributing to this issue also? Just changed plugs about 50 miles ago. Many thanks, again, my friends, for any insights.

Hello Joshbob,

After reading thru your thread it sounds like the ethanol gas is causing you issues. As everyone knows it'll foul plugs,sh*tty detonation,just crap on the spark side of things.

I'd like to advocate for star tron. Mostly becaus its good and also you can not over toxify the application.

And I bet until you can fine some non ethanol gas you'll be doomed to carry a bottle of some kind of additive. Not sure but I'm feeling that the shovel motor in general is not capatable with 10% ethanol induced gas n general. I might be wrong, just guessing.