Clutch woes . . .

Yeah. we still have snow on the ground....:fight::rant::rant:

Finally! The BDL open belt drive came yesterday. I hope I have all the parts I need LOL. Today I will attempt to put it all together. Probably no ride today, though - it's raining. But I'll start 'er up . . .

+1. Please let us know how it all goes. Post pics!!!!!:worthless:

Worthless or not, I can't seem to get pictures on this website. I got it all together last night and started the ol' thing up. Took about 20 kicks or so WTF. Puked some oil for awhile. Going for a ride this afternoon - too chilly and windy right now. Our temps are considerably colder than normal.

Awesome! I am really glad to hear that you have your bike up and running! I am sure that you will really enjoy it.

Just got back from a short ride over to the next town for gas. Clutch just needs a little fine tuning - not dropping into low like it should, otherwise it's fine.

Developed a leak at the tranny seal, I think. I'm going to dump a bit of oil from it. Maybe the lower oil level will stop the leaking. This has worked in the past . . .

New rear brake works awesome!
Holy moly, boys! I's ridin' again!

Yipeee!!

Just make sure the tranny oil level is high enough so it touches the throw out bearing. If not it will likely burn up.

Good stuff ride her...

Putting in new oil today. 20-50 in the motor, and 85-140 in the tranny. All straight oil. Drained it last night and it looked really dark after only 200 miles. This is the first oil change since installing new rings and rebuilt heads.

Rings and heads should be good to go after that. Wheee doggies!

Sounds good buddy.
I gotta run straight 70 wt down here in hot south florida.

Dirty is normal for new rings...(as long as there's no slivers of metal or chunks of cloth)I'd go 500 miles on this change, then 1000, then just regular 3-3500 changes...

Sounds like a plan. Next time I change the motor oil, I think I'll switch back to Valvoline SAE 50 racing oil instead of 20-50. We're coming into hotter weather soon.

I noticed today after an 80 mile ride that my rear rotor was scored on the outside. I also noticed a scraping sound when I would brake sometimes. The rotor and brake were hot when I got the bike back in the shop.
I wonder if I installed it wrong, maybe not shimming it enough on the inside.
I think I messed up my new brake pad and my rotor. Not sure what to make of it or what to do about it . . .

I think what caused the problem is that I moved the rear wheel back to take some slack out of the chain and forgot to loosen the brake anchor and readjust it. Would that cause the pad to dig into the rotor? Rotor appears to be straight and centered, though that is only an eyeball estimation.

I'm going to have to take the rear wheel off and remove the rotor and get it turned smooth again - that's a fact, Jack! Then inspect the brake pads for scoring.

Man, this really sucks :gah:.

JB a couple of grooves around your rotor won't hurt anything, just sandpaper the pads a little and put it back together after you check for any warping. I don't see how a new set of pads could groove a rotor. Is the groove on the outer edge of the rotor? What ever caused it should also have a matching mark on it. Is your brake caliper mounted in such a way so that it is allowed to float as needed? Good luck>

Aloha....Mike

"CLUTCH WOES" thread has now become "REAR BRAKE WOES" LOL. We think we see what's causing the pads to bind. The rotor is too thick. Tattoo has a used thinner rear rotor that he will trade me for a guitar lesson.

The pads cleared nicely when I first installed the brake, but that was before I put brake fluid in. The new brake is from a 2012 Kawasaki and I believe that the Kawa's use thinner rear brake rotors.

I think the thinner rotor will solve the problem.

Looks like the end of this thread - finally! Spent about 7 hours last night changing to the thinner rotor, shimming the brake, etc. Also had to replace the brake light hydraulic switch and changed all the tail light wires and the socket contacts as well. Ran the wires inside the frame.

I now have a functioning brake light and a rotor that works. Went for a nice ride today in 70s weather. Wore a sleeveless tee shirt and got a little sunburned. Had a great day.

Lesson learned here is that you can't use a rotor designed for a banana caliper with a Japanese caliper. When I learned that the Nissen (Kawasaki) caliper would only work with the thinner sport bike rotors, problem was solved.

Hoping this will be the last of my "woes" for a while, boys, and that y'all got in a ride today.

Congrats.
Woulda been nice if the guy that sold you the caliper told you that you needed a different rotor! Just saying..