Compression relief valves

good catch guys! you really do pay attention. It was an 88 in 08, to much beer i forgot what year!! dam

Pardon me, but what is ccp? I'll get my parts list and type it all up.

CCP= cold cranking pressure. Both cylinders should be within 10lbs of each other. I think your problem is in the starter or cables.

Cams are Andrews 510G w/gears, adjustable chrmmoly pushrods.
3 7/8" T.C. Pistons +.005".
Top end gasket 1550.030
Crane Fireball ign. back cylinder retarded slightly during dyno.
My buddies presure gauge would not fit my bike so I will have to wait until mine arrives.
Cant find the invoice of my valves, so I will have to do some more looking. I did have the heads polished and ported with larger valves.:witsend:

well have you re-checked the timing?
I would also make sure that crane ign. is still working right!

I replaced the one in my buddys 96 S & S motor when nhis bike started to cut in and out as he was riding!

havent checked timing, any good way to test ignition? My bike sits in my heated shop all winter so moisture shouldnt be a prob.

well just make sure all the little switches are set where there supposed to be! check the timing...

The after market ign systems can go bad hell so can Harleys! I would call Crane Tech service and pick there mind, maybe ask them a few quistions ! I know they had problems with there H I 4 in the past few years !
There was a time in the last year or two you couldnt buy a crane HI 4 because they were trying to fix a problem they were having,and had to change a few things before going back into production!

Are you running single or duel fire setup?

Crane went out of business. S&S bought the motorcycle unit, but Daytona TwinTech has a replacement for Crane ignition modules & they give you credit if you return a Crane unit that went bad. However, I got a HI-4 for one setup about 9 years ago & have never had a problem with it.

Thats a great Andrews Cam ! It has a great gear whine and no BS chain set up! What a Cluster F#@*^ the chain set up is that Harley came up with!
There were a lot of guys that lost good motors because of the plastic breaking off and causing there motors to blow up!

I think its a 510 lift and it really wakes up a stock TC !

Are you using a Stock H-D starter?
I know they have had problems with thise too! There are a few AMERICAN MADE Starters out there make sure its made in the USA!
ALL BALLS are not USA products! Terrys and Rivera Primos are Made here in the USA
They rate starter power by kW 1.2 1.4 1.7 1.8 bigger # more torque to spin a big motor!
But the bigger the power, so is the outside size of the starter! I think an OEM H-D Starter is 1.2 so a 1.4 will be a good choice for up to 100 Cu In Check all your connections 1st!

Calling Crane is a good idea, running single fire.

my mistake, I did replace the stock starter, my dealer ordered it in for me. I am missing the invoice so I'll have to get a hold of them on the size. was thinking it was a 2.7, must be a 1.7v Got new battery cables coming so I'll pull the oil tank and check all the connections. I did order a tester to check the battery, starter draw and also the charging system. Also the compression guage is on its way! I do agree I think I have something drawing juice, possibly when hitting the starter button.

Info from All Balls web Site:
The ALL BALLS 1.7kW motor is a good solution for big-cube or hard-starting motors as long as 4ga battery cables are used to reduce voltage losses, and the battery is at least 300CCA.
I know my battery is not 300CCA, not sure about the new cables I have coming but I'm going to make sure they are if they are not!!
Thoughts?
99% sure my starter is 1.7w, not sure what brand until I call the Dealer today.

It's really pretty simple if you think of electricity like water; say your battery is a 1-gallon jug of water & your starter is a 1/2 gallon pail that you need to fill right now, but you've just got a piece of garden hose running from the jug to the pail. If the battery cables can't carry the current the starter needs, it can't spin the engine fast or long enough to start it.

And the statement "voltage losses" is misleading - if the battery is @ 12.8 Volts, you'll get 12.8 @ the starter with a small diameter wire, but voltage isn't what does the work, it's Amps & the Amp draw from the starter is quite high. The heavier gauge (thickness) wire you use, the more amperage that will flow thru it & the less Resistance there will be.

Also, remember this simple formula: Volts x Amps = Watts. That doesn't take Resistance into account, but it's very useful nonetheless. In other words, for an electric motor to actually get 1700 Watts (1.7 kW) @ 12.8 Volts, it'd have to pull 132.8 Amps !! Your starter's Amp draw shouldn't be anywhere near that high (probably around 85) but that still requires heavy-gauge wire & the heavier the better.

When they say "300 CCA", they're saying the battery can produce 300 "cold cranking Amps" & that's obviously more than you need. However, the battery can't provide that much current for very long & motorcycle batteries are not "deep cycle" batteries that can be drained down to -0- then charged completely back up over & over again & like heavier gauge wires, it's better to have more than you need than just barely enough.