CV Carburetor Question and Help

Good day all just joined this board after looking at some of the topics and sound like a great place with lots of info and knowledge , I just moved to the Sao Miguel Azore Islands and have from the Northeast USA and brought the 1996 Harley Road King. I don't want to be long winded but having some trouble with the OEM CV Carb from harley, so some background:
1996 Road King with Andrews 3 cam, Dynojet kit instal, K&N Air filter, Sampson true duels and Harley Touring mufflers with the fiberglass removed.
When I arrived I fouled a set plugs so I placed a new set of plugs and adjusted the air fuel mix which helped but have not re-jeted yet. Took the bike for a ride for about 60 miles and ran great on the top side at lower speeds it farts through the exhaust and minor through the Carb. I am looking for OP info of what size jets should be in the slow jet as well as the high speed for island sea level heavy humid air .
Thanks in advance
Marc

a 45 slow jet should be just fine those dyno jet kits run a tad on the rich side . i would like to see a stock emulsion tube and a cv and main jet in there with the cv spring and a stock slide in that carb throttle will be much more responsive ,and cruise will be much better 190 main will be a good starting point also

Thank you baggerpaul I will check the jetting today. It does it more on the accelerate to speed and clears up on cruising speed, the poping if I back off on the throttle a bit and get to cruising. plugs look a bit rich. been a headache, had to wait for new screws for the bowl that came in yesterday.

check and make sure the pump gives ya a good squirt also when you twist the grip!and if you have a timing light look at timing .andrews 3 has a bit longer duration so it might like a little more initial timing as you pull out of the hole , easy to adjust on an evo . pull the timing plug bring number 1 up on COMPRESSION STROKE, line the mark up on the center of the timing plug hole pull the inspection cover on the primary mark the stator with white out , put the plug cover back in. start the bike and warm it up set the throttle stop at 2 grand check the timing should be about 32-36 deg on the advance light i like it on the high end of the scale if its not there adjust the pick up under the timing cover just loosen up the stand off screws and move the plate clock wise one slot at a time and recheck as needed. hope i was able to help .enjoty and keep the pretty side up on your bike!

Ok I am back baggerpaul, checked the jets and they are in the range of what you stated great so put a new set of plugs and reset the mixture screw, checked the timing took it for a ride and said holy crap it ran so bad. It idled good and seemed to start good, warmed it up and now went for the ride and popped through the exhaust and carb badly. When I got to the garage after the short ride I noticed a real bad pop when I blipped the throttle both exhaust and carp even saw small flame pop in the carb. When I shipped it from the USA is rad good although was using a bit more gas than my friends twin of mine Road King. The new plugs were black like to much fuel to rich, I checked the wires going to the module under the cone and they look fine no pinch of cuts, though I may have pinched them during shipping, check the plug wires no cuts and are tight, I pulled the tank to check the coil ohms and the meter ran all over the place with the battery disconnected but the coil in place. hoping to solve this soon I hate electrical problems. if you can give me some info and what you think I should test and if the coil test is ok still on the bike. By the way it did smooth out a bit on the ride only when just rolling alone.

P.S. I did not change anything before being shipped and it ran good here just started to run rich all of a sudden.

I check the Coil on a bench with a ohm meter, passed, got 3.0 Spec(2.5-3.1) on the primary circuit and 10300 spec (10,000-12500) on the Secondary circuit.
Any suggestions it ran fine when it first arrived

I there any way to test a ignition module? on a big twin 1340

I doubt its the module what is your jetting at this point .and when the bike was in the us what elevation did you live in ?

What position is the clip on the needle?

Thank you so much for your reply baggerpaul. I am running a 170 on the main and 45 on the low speed jet, we were in Rhode Island almost the same elevation as here but the air is a bit more humid and heavy here and I don't think the size that I have in there now would foul a set of plugs that fast. Going to check the timing by the end of the week, need to get a timing plug window for the timing peek. The bike ran so good when I first pick it up off the boat hard to think the timing is that far off in about 500 miles. I have a set of new harley plugs coming and new set of wires, wires are original also. The Bike just got a little worse as the time went on, started to hard starting, changed the plugs and started fine, then looks like they are starting to foul again and popping through both but still starts ok but under a load and hard blip when sitting pops like a bitch. If you have any ideas on testing I will have lots of time, I retired here

Ok sea level is sea level timing should not have changed at all if it ran good before .lets get back to basic testing ! How. Many turns out is the mixture screw.lets not forget that the mixture screw is also the cruise setting for fuel flow . 1 to 1
5 turns should make that bike run good enough and start well. Were are we at with this setting?

The clip is in slot #3 never changed it from the install about 10 years ago, only thing I have ever done after the kit was placed in was to replace the vacuum piston, the rubber has a small tear. I forgot to mention I replace the rubber manifold and put a aluminum manifold

The mixture screw I checked when I arrived was at 2.5 turns to turn in to seat, I turned it out from seat 3 turns. that where it sit right now

am I correct in saying
that the turn in is leaning and out is richer fuel.

again I want to thank you for all your info and working with me, this looks like a great board to be on!!

No need for it to be that rich .run it in till lightly seated. Then turn it out .1.5 turns get it fully warmed up .set the idle to about a grand turn it in till it stumbles then out till it runs smooth you idle and low speed settings are set .run it around a bit and check the plugs for color .

I will try this tomorrow, we are 4 hrs ahead of you guys, it is 11pm here in the Azores. I also have to wait of a new enricher cable, I noticed it had a crack in the plastic were you adjust the pull, hoping to get this in by wednesday, I may be able to use the cracked on for the of the 1.5 setting.
Got a quick question the best way to adjust the screw while the air cleaner is on, or can it be set with it off, it is almost impossible to reach behind with the stock air cleaner backing plate.

You will have to adjust it and then place the air cleaner back on before riding it .you will always have a cough with the air cleaner off. That cv carb is designed to have some sort of air cleaner on it .while riding .i use a very short flat blade eye glass screw driver to adjust the carb with the air cleaner on .works perfectly. At this point if it is still fat and blubbering out of the exhaust try a 42 slow jet.leave the main alone. Is it possible that the factory pep **** that has a vacum hose is leaking out of the diaphram and your getting un meter fuel in the intake have you pulled the hose off after its at normal temp and see if fuel leaks out of the vacum port in the pepcock?

I was going to suggest that maybe your enrichener is not seating properly or leaking,but since you have a new one coming,I suppose you'll find out if that's the issue when you change it.