CV Carburetor Question and Help

Hey banbidee, As far as the Air Cleaner, it was a brand new K&N before I left, and looks fineHey all, No news yet, The Post Office in Amsterdam Netherlands lost the first package and the company had to reship the parts, At the same time I ordered a few things for it, some Primary oil, set of plugs, flanges for manifold seals and new bolts. I did however find one thing that was wrong, when I replaced the choke cable the bell shaped boot must not have been snapped in all the way cause it pulled away from the small shoulder of the plastic elbow, so that would have made it not closed all the way, I fix that and removed the rest while I was there to replaced the seals making sure I removed all the rubber remits from the old seals. I am hoping by Monday or Tuesday I should get the parts and put her back together. I will keep you informed and let you all know how she runs (fingers Crossed)
Thank you all again for all your help.

It get's tough when you start chasing a problem, unfortunatly we touch way to many other thing sometimes to find the original issue. When repairing a vehicle in my shop I say return to the scene of the crime when the ever since syndrome happens. Best of luck and let us know. Looks like awesome countryside.

Update: OK so the post office lost another package (2nd package) of parts for me. The Company I ordered from is livered with them, so much so that they changed the shipping company. To be continued

Hello All, I am back and wish I could give you some great news, but that is not the case. I started the bike after replacing the manifold seals all 3 of them and made sure all the boots were in place on the choke cable (the elbow had popped off from the first install), set the mixture screw to about 2 turns out and the bike fired up, but popped like a bastard on the firing. Tried to warm it up to adjust the mixture and after warming it up on a high idle with the throttle grip screw it stalled after releasing it and would not restart. I made sure the choke cable was sitting closed and tried to fire it back up and no go, pulled the plugs and they were black as bad as the pictures shown earlier. I am picking up another set of plugs tomorrow maybe fouled these so bad last time that they are junk, I cleaned them before doing firing it up this time. (I pulled the plugs and they show spark) but just reaching now. Not to sure why it is running so rich, I thought the choke cable not seating on the elbow would have fixed this for sure. I am lost, this sucks, it ran fine when it arrived.

That does suck...Did you happen to check the float valve for wear??See if the tip is worn or deformed,that can cause flooding...Did you take the emulsion tube out when doing anything to the carb??
I'm thinking it could be either the needle jet is in upside down or missing or the float valve is worn or sticking or float itself is out of adjustment...I can't think of anything else,especially since it ran good,nothing done to it,then it started running real fat...

I'd just pick up a couple of sets of standard plugs until you find the problem...

Hi Lucifer, I did not pull the emulsion tube so it is still in the right place, I did not pull the float to check the seat on float tip, maybe check it today. after getting my plugs (ordered 4 of them) today will go back at it with a clearer head today. I will keep you advised, seems like anything I am doing it still runs fat. Going to ABC today to get it running Fuel Spark Mixture and make sure it is all there.
I must have pulled the air cleaner and backing plate 50 times so far to check things, Hard to start it with them off as the carb pops off on a hard backfire once in a while, backfire on both carb and exhaust.

Ok I am back with great news, First and for most I want to thank everyone here in the blog for their help and in site and tech experience you all have been a great help.
OK what was it?? the big question, so this might be a bit long but here goes.
This is what I did to fix it, replaced the slow jet back from a 45 to a 42, lowered the high speed jet to a 150, yup a 150 from a 180, lowered the clip on the needle 1 notch and placed a washer under it and kept 2 washers on top to the dynojet needle and adjusted the mixture tuning screw is fined tuned to 2 turns out (sweet spot), started at 1 1/2 turns, brand new set of plugs. She started like a charm, no pop, no black smoke and best of all no stalling out or backfiring. We live on a 700 ft cliff on the island and can see the ocean from the back door and back home was about 400 ft in RI, not a lot to worry about I thought. My better half (wife) looked up some info on the weather and air pressures compared to RI, this is what she found and the reason the bike was running so rich, at sea level here it is anywhere from 9mb- to as high at 15MB which is 100 ft to 1mb so we are about 1000-1200 ft above sea level and in the city where they look to be at sea level with the mountains and valleys that are major hights and lows it changes the millibars of the sea level and there are mountains and valleys on the land which go from the same hight and lows as much as 5000ft and all in-between even on the roads. this was why she was running so rich, although the boot on the elbow falling apart on the choke did not help the first time I changed it and the seal leak on the manifold also had something to do with the mixture and not being able to set it right, all of this is done, took a while but seams to be running great. I check the plugs and looks like they are just a bit rich a medium brown, which is ok seeing I travel to the city a number of times where it will lean out a bit and when I travel to the mountains it will run a bit richer, a real bitch to fine tune, just have to get it in the middle. The ride I took was about 15 miles, after I ride again at about 50 -100 miles I will check them again and make sure they are not to lean, I would rather run a little bit rich and spend a bit more on fuel then run lean and a lot hotter and burn up inner parts. Thats it boys, another happy camper !! I would have never thought of lowering everything that much!

So, you were higher than you thought...Keep the shiny side up...

Hi All
I got a chance to get a good ride in today about 50 miles, she ran good, pulled the plugs and it is still running real rich, should I lower the pilot jet even lower? running a 42 and main is 150 with the needle lowered one notch with a washer under it. Or should I be looking elsewhere? Damn!! think I will foul these plugs soon , but I did order a bunch of them. It ran good no popping, started no problem. I went through a few elevations, through the gears and even the highway at 70-80mph. Any Ideas??? Thanks Again!!

I think I'd try it without the washer under the needle...Have you checked to make sure all the air passages are clear...Are the head breathers routed to the atmosphere or back into the intake??
A 42 pilot seems small for an 80" Evo so going smaller on the pilot would make me think it's not getting enough air...

The head breathers route into the air cleaner Stock set up on the air cleaner using a K&N element. I am going to pull it all apart later this week and clean it thoroughly making sure all the passages are clear and clean, Although I have cleaned it good and did not see any gum or much junk both in the bowl or the top where the slide works. I am going to place a new spring and valve on the new choke cable Enricher. Lucifer got a question for ya, can you see the enricher valve operation on the inside of the carb? I did notice one thing, when I push the choke knob all the way in I don't see any of the metal of the cable on the bracket side, the knob bottoms to the bracket so if it is not closing it is bottoming on the bracket. How do I give it some free play?

There really is no "freeplay" on the choke like on your throttle cables,you just snug the tension so that when you pull it out,it stays out and when you push it in,it goes in all the way(no cable showing)If there is any cable showing the choke isn't closing all the way...set the tension with your fingers do not use pliers or anything else to set tension,because if you break that plastic nut,you'll need a new cable...
I'm thinking part of the reason your plugs are so black is because of the crankcase gases air/oil mix breathing into the intake...oil level too high can have more oil mixing with the crakncase gasses + a couple of other things...
I think if Bill Harley and Art Davidson wanted oil to go into the combustion chamber,they'd have built 2 strokes

Yes I agree with you Lucifer on the 2 stroke, My old FXRS had a small hose with a filter on the end and would spit oil out every season from being stored, I used to vise grip the hose to limit the amount of oil coming out. I have cleaned the filter housing real good, and not getting much in there as of yet and the oil is perfect, may need changing soon though. OK thanks for the info on the enricher circuit and cable, I will just change the spring and valve so it will be new and knock another item off the list. Just waiting for the part and will use carb cleaner and compressed air in all the passages when it is all pulled apart adjusting everything. Think I am going to bring the Main Jet back to 160 or 170 and take the washer off, it seems to fall on its face in the middle range a bit until the transfer to full throttle. My friend has my twin Bike same set up as I and I always used a bit more fuel but thought it was the way I rode and it was maybe slow, but this is a bit much. He sent me pictures of his plugs, a dark gray almost tan, guess he is not having problems with his LOL. Maybe I should ask him to send me his carb LOL If this does not work, guess It is a new carb and maybe use the dynojet and already drilled slide. we shall see. I will keep you advised. In the keen time had to take a ride to the Hot Pools here and soak my A$$.

Im Back, got a chance for the Carb to pull it all apart. Did not look to dirty maybe some crap inside the passages and checked the float level, it looks really close, and the float valve has just a small bit of a marking ring on the rubber part of the valve where it is sitting inside. I am going to replace it all tomorrow or wednesday soon as the parts come in. I did notice that the float tab has a bit more wear on the underside where the valve hits on it, but not to sure this was the cause maybe you guys know. both areas of the float and valve show some wear but not to much for about 50,000. maybe caused by the boat ride here. I have the carb soaking to make sure all the vents and passage ways are getting clean. All the rubber items have been pulled prior to soaking and I am going to use compressed air just before I put it back together. I am going back to the 160 jet I started with and a 42 pilot jet. Any ideas on what the needle should be, All this crap I forgot where it was at first. Right now it is at the 4th rim down from the top.

Clip for the needle would come in the 3rd groove ....Then you'd have 2 richer settings and 2 leaner settings to make adjustments

Well I got it done, Carb is rebuilt, Moved the main jet to 160, clip on the 3 slot from the top and 42 pilot, while I had it all apart replace all the Vac hoses to the VOES, they did not look to bad but while I was there. Took the bike out for a 30-40 mile run and it performed a lot better, great response from low revs and throttle to WOT, popping is gone, pulled the plugs which I also replaced and they were on a very dark brown, still rich but livable I guess. The mixture screw is 3/4 of a turn out from stop that is the best spot as it stumbles at about 1/4 turn from stop. For anyone not up to date I replaced the Coil, wires and started with 45 slow jet and 180 main, compression was good 95 front and 90 in back, spec was 90 without 10% between them. I may order a 40 pilot jet as the kit only came with larger than 42 pilot. when cleaning the carb I did not see much in it, very minor in the tank that it soaked. Even riding in the Rocky Mountains back home I never had to drop the pilot jet, just the main jet. The question I have is lowering the pilot Jet going to lean it out and I will lose performance? Or should I lower the needle 1 slot and that will also lean it out and leave the jet the same size with that effect the performance ? Again Thank you all for your help, I have learned a lot here with your help, just trying to get the best performance and fuel millage at the same time, guess that is a oxymoron. Any other fine tuning to lean it ?
P.S. Plugs were new install again and used 95 octane fuel with no ethanol.