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CV upgrade

Discussion in 'Motorcycle Tech Talk' started by gwilbon, May 4, 2010.

  1. whacker

    whacker Active Member

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    I bought a carb from Ken ..with all the goodies on it...I did add the "V" Ductor...which I highly recomend....My bike never has ran so good....
  2. chucktx

    chucktx Moderator Staff Member

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    cool!!!!!!!
  3. schooner

    schooner New Member

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    Hey Whacker please explain

    Hi Whacker

    First of all this newbie needs all the details so I can finally understand these things please:

    1. What is a "V" Ductor

    2. What kind of carb did you buy from KEN :confused:

    3. If you bought a CV KEIHIN 40mm carb I'm interested in buying on in the near future from KEN.

    4. How and where do I get into touch with KEN :confused:

    Thanks Bro. :)

    GOD BLESS

    Schooner :cool:

  4. chucktx

    chucktx Moderator Staff Member

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    ken....aka....kenfused, owns this site. that link i posted for you is his site....you can purchase through there, or contact him via pm or email.....let him know your a member and he has discounts.......let us know!!!!! and have fun!!
  5. sarge7

    sarge7 New Member

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    Scooter - The V-DUCTOR installs into the mouth of the carb under the air cleaner it improves air flow into the carb and will give a small boost in power and a little better fuel mileage. For less than half a c-note ya can't go wrong and you will notice the differance when ya twist the throttle. Been using one for a little over a year now and I'm not about to throw it away.:)
  6. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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  7. JohnnyBiker

    JohnnyBiker Well-Known Member

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    Well, I think that I am going to take the step and order the kit from Ken. it is hard to argue with the family about this so I will listen. Just out of curiosity, how long does it take for shipping???
  8. chucktx

    chucktx Moderator Staff Member

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    from calif. to minn. shouldnt take to long....about a week i would guess......
  9. JohnnyBiker

    JohnnyBiker Well-Known Member

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    The thing that caught my attention about the V-Ductor was in its description. In its description, it had said that it lessens the turbulence that is caused as the air passes through. when I read this, I remembered when I was talking to the guy that did the little head work that I had done. I asked him why he did not polish a certain area and he said that it was because I would want the turbulence in that area to bounce around the air fuel mixture for a result of better mix. BULL**** :D
  10. kenfuzed

    kenfuzed Administrator Staff Member

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    The V-Ductor uses the same principle as a velocity stack, only it is placed in the air cleaner. There are a couple of different things happening as air enters, passes through, and finally makes its way through the manifold into each combustion chamber. As air enters the opening of the carb or throttle body it is naturally turbulent because of how it is being introduced. This is where the V-Ductor comes in, to lessen that introduced turbulence and allow the fuel spray to become evenly mixed right where velocity increases in the venturi. As the mixed air and fuel are rapidly drawn into the manifold turbulence once again increases, but at this point the air and fuel have already had a chance to become well mixed so this is of lesser concern. I have seen plenty of dyno runs with both polished and non-polished manifolds and I've never been able to see a real difference. So the person who told you about polished manifolds was partially correct, only it isn't that the polished surface is impacting turbulence, but in fact probably making no measurable contribution at all.

    Chuck is right about the 1 week mailing time. Before I say more about shipping, let me apologize to anyone here who may work for the USPS, and with that disclaimer out of the way, it's been my experience with this overpaid bunch of lazy hacks that some mail reaches a destination in a matter of days while the same package could sit in the back room of a postal office or truck for over a week. It is one of the few services in the world that can charge you to perform a service but not guarantee with any certainty that they will deliver on what was paid for, then turn around and ask you to pay for insurance on the service they were already charging you for. All of this while being subsidized by the taxpayer. Despite all this, they are still the most economical way of getting things from A to B, so basically I have this love hate relationship with the USPS. Not quite enough to go postal, but certainly enough to make my life difficult when people want to know where their package is a week later.
    :cussing:
  11. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Yep you do not want a polished intake tract, smooth surface reduces air
    tension/circulation, a rougher surface causes the air and fuel to mix to a
    higher atomization level, you want this. It's also why newer cars are
    Direct Port Injection - straight into the cylinder for total atomization
    of fuel,

    You don't want big old drops of fuel.... So the guy wasn't lying to you...
  12. JohnnyBiker

    JohnnyBiker Well-Known Member

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    Yes, I can understand that I would not want the intake manifold polished, but this was not the area I was referring to. He really didn't polish both ports of the head. If I remember right, he only polished the exhaust not the intake port. from what I am understanding that when the v-ductor is being used it stabilizes the flow before it get to the manifold, then obviously from there it goes into the chamber. Wouldn't you think that if you have a rough surface in the port that you are taking the chance of increasing your droplet size because they are bouncing around more colliding more violently???
  13. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    I mean the whole intake tract, from the carb back to the valve, polishing isn't a a
    good idea.

    You hear people talking, ported n polished all the time, or blueprinted, 99% of the time
    IMHO they have no idea wtf they are talking about.. just using terms they have heard or read about to sound smarter about a subject than they are... again JMO

    Its just bench racing and guys bull****e'n..
    Read up a bit below, and have fun next bike night when someone says they bluprinted their engine... Ask them to see a copy of the blueprints LOL

    Intakes must have a rough texture, the idea is to get air moving as quickly as possible and, atomization of the fuel to be as done as possible before the mix hits the cylinder, remember your bike is firing off a cylinder thousands of times a minute, do the math and the time is so short you need it mixed up in advance really well.

    Polished exhaust is fine, but it's not key it's the angle and style of the port that causes
    the velocity to increase and help keep reversion down...

    YOu can polish the heck out of the combustion chamber and it's just going to look
    pretty until you fire up the bike for the first time... Might keep a little less carbon but eventually it's going to carbon up so its just a waste of time...

    area, shape, flow.....

    The shiny stuff is for crows LOL


    Here's a little 'splain'n for you from Wiki, there are a lot of these sources on the net but this is fairly well written

    Click here for more stuff on port'n polish'un


    The "Porting and Polishing" myth

    It is popularly held that enlarging the ports to the maximum possible size and applying a mirror finish is what porting is. However that is not so. Some ports may be enlarged to their maximum possible size (in keeping with the highest level of aerodynamic efficiency) but those engines are highly developed very high speed units where the actual size of the ports has become a restriction. Larger ports flow more fuel/air at higher RPM's but sacrifice torque at lower RPM's due to lower fuel/air velocity. A mirror finish of the port does not provide the increase that intuition suggests. In fact, within intake systems, the surface is usually deliberately textured to a degree of uniform roughness to encourage fuel deposited on the port walls to evaporate quickly. A rough surface on selected areas of the port may also alter flow by energizing the boundary layer, which can alter the flow path noticeably, possibly increasing flow. This is similar to what the dimples on a golf ball do. Flow bench testing shows that the difference between a mirror finished intake port and a rough textured port is typically less than 1%. The difference between a smooth to the touch port and an optically mirrored surface is not measurable by ordinary means. Exhaust ports may be smooth finished because of the dry gas flow and in the interest of minimizing exhaust by-product build-up. A 300 - 400 Grit finish followed by a light buff is generally accepted to be representative of a near optimal finish for exhaust gas ports.

    The reason that polished ports are not advantageous from a flow standpoint is that at the interface between the metal wall and the air, the air speed is ZERO (see boundary layer and laminar flow). This is due to the wetting action of the air and indeed all fluids. The first layer of molecules adheres to the wall and does not move significantly. The rest of the flow field must shear past, which develops a velocity profile (or gradient) across the duct. For surface roughness to impact flow appreciably, the high spots must be high enough to protrude into the faster moving air toward the center. Only a very rough surface does this.
  14. JohnnyBiker

    JohnnyBiker Well-Known Member

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    That article was very interesting. it flew in the face of what one "thought he knew." Thanks for sharing that. :cool:
  15. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    no problem, we've all been there, thought the same, most of it comes from what we "hear" from others, and a lot of time, "those guys" are just repeating what some other guy told them...

    Years ago I thought the same why wouldn't you want a highly polished intake, I mean it's shiney, smooth, no obstructions, logic tells you this would be better right?

    Daily physics tell us this should be right, wax on paint, socks on polished wood floors, smooth is faster, better... however....

    In those cases we're looking for a nice shiney viewable surface, we don't want to walk around on the back side of the board that isn't finished, doesn't "feel" right...

    However fuel and air need to be atomized, mixed, and delivered precisely when we want it to the valve, the better the mix the better the bang.... So rough stirs up the air and fuel...

    So, if you would like to learn more

    Click Here


    The test will be Friday and it's not open book....
    open container might be ok though
  16. JohnnyBiker

    JohnnyBiker Well-Known Member

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    :roflmao::roflmao: I take enough tests. :roflmao::roflmao:
  17. schooner

    schooner New Member

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    Re: CV upgrade ~ I'm Still CONFUSED

    Hey Sarge

    Can you straighten out this newbie (new) on CV 40mm carbs. I spoke with Ken and he's in the process of helping pick-out a CV Carb for me 1985 Evo 1340cc.

    Lots of Question(s) with no understanding on my part.
    Can you help out this newbie :confused:

    So I got this original butterfly carb when I bought my '85 H-D new.
    Its really been hard to start on most occasions but I though that's the way it was suppose to be DUH ! WRONG.

    I want to replace that carb with the best rebulit I can buy and here's where I get into trouble understand something; for insteads.

    1. Ken told me not to buy a CV Carb in the 1988 era. WHY ?
    2. How can I tell what cv carb was built in what year ?
    3. I read about how good a V DUCTOR is for the bike WHY ?
    4. I read a CV used Carb has just come off a 1990 RoadKing lets say.
    Would that carb be good for me application YES/NO WHY?

    I need lots of school on the subject of CV 40mm CARBS.

    If you can allow me to pick you brain and straighten me out on what
    your knowledge is and what you recommend please.

    Thanks Guy




  18. Lucifer

    Lucifer Well-Known Member

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    No accelerator pump on the '88 CV's...
    Here's a link that tells a bit about the CV carbs and setting them up...not a bad article but ignore the part about drilling the vacuum port....you DO NOT want to do that.

    http://www.cyberranch.org/bike2.html
  19. fxdxriderleo

    fxdxriderleo Active Member

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    I have been reading about port polishing. On the Shovel heads, and earlier heads the shape of the combustion chamber and pistons didn't promote the fuel and air to mix well. Leaving the intake tract rough helped the fuel and air to mix better.
    On the Evos and twin cams the shape of the combustion chambers and pistons were changed to promote the fuel air mix in the combustion chamber as the piston comes up on compression. On these engines smoother intake tracts allow more fuel air mix to enter the combustion chamber.
    Most of this applies to highly tuned racing engines. On the street it won't make as much difference.
  20. gwilbon

    gwilbon New Member

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    As always, I learn more by keeping my mouth shut and paying attention.

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