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Engine, tranny oil

Discussion in 'Motorcycle Tech Talk' started by ctd, Dec 23, 2005.

  1. CD

    CD Guest

    At least he is good for a grin or two or three or five hundred

    From http://www.harleyhelp.com/faq.html#stp

    Where to start? Well, to begin, this flake should make a disclaimer that he is no oil expert or he has the best smoke in town.

    Harley-Davidson oil is always worth the extra money. Then you believe in and have fell for for one of the largest fallacies there are!I can't stress this enough with my customers. I'm not a salesman or anything, I try to only use H-D oil in any bike I work on, even when I worked in aftermarket shops (I even recommend HD oil in the Big Dogs and other S&S motors).
    H-Ds and most other V-Twins are rollerbearing engines and most others (foreign bikes, automotive, ect.) are flat "Babbit" or "Plain" style bearing engines, which require as "Slick" as possible oil (synthetic). If that type of oil is used in a Harley motor, you could be faced with what is called "Bearing Skate", So, did the the Taurus HSO with Yamaha Engine have Babbitt bearings? (hint: no) Then why did it come with Synthetic oils? What about the Corvette and the exotics??? that is when the rollerbearings start to slide instead of roll and creates flat spots, which creates heat, which winds up at engine failure. The only failure here is your basic logic and basic understanding of lubricants. Harley oil is formulated to be sort of..... tacky, to allow the bearings to roll.(HUH?) It is also formulated to withstand higher temperatures, for those days stuck in traffic. More research has gone into developing their oil than anything else they make because of how hot the motors were getting back in the '70s. H-D probably doesn't do their own testing, they farm it out. The snappy comeback is usually "Yeah, who is making the oil for Harley this week?" Well then, who is is? Sunoco? Jim Bob's Generic? and my answer is that it doesn't matter. Harley-Davidson has a specific set of specifications that the oil manufacturer must be able to produce and as long as the oil meets those specs, who cares who makes it, somebody has to. (I don't think H-D has any plans on going into the oil refinery biz.) And, rightfully so.
    As for what weight to run? I use 20/50 in my '79, the multi-weight allows the old shovels to get oil pressure to the top end quicker when the motor is cold and will allow the starter to turn the motor over a little easier, but if you live in a warmer climate you might want to run something heavier or some thing lighter in colder climates. (I switch to HD 10/40 in November or the **** thing won't start)



    I hope the above was written long ago and this feller is out to pasture. His statements regarding RUB's HOG etc were mid 90's thinking.

    Why in world would you want to believe any of the crap this ole' boy slings? If you do, I've got some land to sell you cheap.

    There are independent studies, magazine tests, testing lab results galore and yet, at least fifty times a year we rehash this whole mess.

    Here's my 02ยข worth on oils. Synthetic lubricants are superior to Dino oil in every category that I have read about. They beat Dino oil in every lab test, magazine article and independent study I have heard of. H-D claimed their Dino based oil was superior to any synthetic for the last ten years or better. If that is so, why all of a sudden the three in one Syn oil?

    Let's use a little bit of the same logic most of us would apply to everyday things. We all know that every electronics manufacturer hypes their own accesories, parts etc and the auto industry hypes their lubes, parts etc right? Have you stopped to wonder why it is that we fret more over a twenty thousand dollar recreational vehicle that is parked next to a thirty thousand dollar SUV with about 2,000% more things to go wrong?

    There are sites out there like http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/ that have true experts and engineers that staff it and help. It doesn't sell oil and stays nuetral.

    HRK, we need to write a FAQ!
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 2, 2006
  2. AZ05FXST

    AZ05FXST New Member

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    90's Thinking

    I looked at this website and while there surely must be some good information buried in it, I agree with you CD this guy is a DINO!!! I'm new to Harley's and hope I don't run into many riders with this kind of bad attitude. What we do to earn a living, how we get to our jobs, and how/how much we choose to spend on our bikes is no ones business but our own. I guess I'm not a EVIL TWIN MOTORCYCLE kind of guy. :rolleyes:
    My question, is it OK to switch from Petroleum to Synthetic oil on a low mileage motor (3000 miles) or should you start with SYN from the beginning. I'm also surprised that HD reccommends oil changes every 5000 miles. Do you guy's change oil more often than every 5000 miles? I'm wondering if I should be looking into the after market oil cooling kits, it's so hot here for 6 months of the year, HD dealer sez it's no problem.I really want to do everything possible to protect my investment without going overboard.
    Thanks for any/all advise.

    Happy and Prosperous New Year to EVERYONE :D
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2006
  3. chucktx

    chucktx Moderator Staff Member

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    as for when to switch, do it at the next oil change....
    i change oil and filter every 2500 miles...this is sooner than it needs to be changed, but it is something i have always done....even on my pans and shovels. i live in south texas and i have oil coolers on all my fossil fuel burning engines. heat is the worst enemy your engine has...have fun and enjoy the ride......
    chuck
  4. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    CD LOL I think we have written enough on the subject over time, I don't mind really when it comes from someone new to the HD family because they maybe getting the run around at the dealer and from friends.

    Oil type and where people buy is based on their personal beliefs, you have the "Dealer Only" guy who wouldn't let anyone but a qualified dealer do work on the bike, or the "Independent shop guy" who maybe had a bad day at a dealer and only goes to independents for whatever reason, and the "I do it myself guy" who turns his own wrenches. 3 guys with 3 opinions and 3 different ideas and each one may have some merit Hey Syn3! LOL.

    Some Factoids for the FAQ...

    1) FTC Magnusson Moss act (Warranty Coverage) protects you, a manuf cannot spec only their brand of oil unless they give it to you free of charge.

    2) Manufacturers can spec the grade of oil 20W-50 with specific ratings.

    3) As long as you buy the proper oil and filter grades, change it on intervals and keep records your warranty is good to go.

    4) Buy what fits your budget and hits Items 2 and 3 and you'll be fine


    The thing about the net is you can research HD and oil and bring up some old posts on lots of sites and basically it's confusing to a newbee to HD's and the sales tactics of some dealers.

    The reason you hear bearing skate, or too slippery or any of the bunk is at one time information on Synthetics was all hearsay and at that time HD dealers didn't have synthetic HD oil to sell at a massive markup. Does it sound like money at work?(Or lack of sales)

    So you were lead to believe that if HD didn't make it then it must not be right! Lots of SM and PM would tell people just about anything to keep selling HD 360 as the synthetic oils begain to take over. So if you're a parts/dealer and you don't have the product because your manuf won't provide it just deface it by intimidating customers with BS. (HD dealers don't have a monopoly on BS'ng people I know several Indy shops that until a year ago wouldn't sell synthetics until, you guessed it, oil sales started dropping)

    Sure is funny how they push Syn 3, the same folks that used to tell you never to run any syn or any other oil for that matter.

    HD 360 is a good oil
    Syn3 is a good oil
    Castrol Syn
    Mobil1 (Vtwin or Gold Cap Auto)
    Redline
    Amsoil (good product but it's a pyramid sales deal)
    All good products.

    As far as syn in the primary there's really not much oil there to begin with about what 24 to 26 oz so less than a qt. It keeps the chain cool a good thing and it does get into the clutch pack but not to the extent that the clutches are bathed in the oil. I though HD primary is a semi-syn oil anyway. (Lets not go there LOL)

    The opposite thought to clutch slippage is that the syn will help the clutchs release faster for better performance and less clutch plate wear.

    By now you see why oil threads get sideways from mis-information, to old theorys to sales practices.

    Heres my personal thoughts not that I've slept in a Holiday Inn Express or have any kind of MIT oil degree:

    1) Change the oil on a regular basis
    2) Change the oil on a regular basis
    3) Change the oil on a regular basis

    If you don't agree with step one see step 2 then confirm with step 3 and then go back to step 1 :D

    Run a synthetic if you want, it's better protection because Syn oils do not break down at the temps that a dyno oil will. Therefore it keeps it's lubricating properties for a longer time which is why they market the longer change intervals. A 20W-50 Dyno oil is the same "slipperyness" as a 20W-50 Synthetic the synthetic just keeps its properties together better. In reality we change oil at 5K intervals, a filter is $10 the oil is $4 for HD 360 or $8 for a good synthetic, at 3.5 qt's per change we're talking $12 difference.

    If you ride a $20,000 motorcycle maybe 10K a year you're looking at $24 for better protection anyone want to do a CPM factorization on that?

    I run an oil cooler, anyone want to discuss the merits LOL
  5. Harley Rider

    Harley Rider New Member

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    Harley Davidson is at it again.

    Was at my dealer yesterday and HD has come out with new oil for use in the Transmission & Primary chain case called Formula +

    He said HD came out with it but hasn't said anything to them about using it yet. The parts man figured it was only a matter of time.

    Also,I picked one up & read the label, There is no mention on it about what weight oil it is.

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