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Front brake system..

Discussion in 'Motorcycle Tech Talk' started by Tommyc, Jan 4, 2011.

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  1. Tommyc

    Tommyc Active Member

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    Hotroadking: that sounds like it works for sure. Cool. All I need now is to digout my MityVac. I think it's under my flywheel truing stand, in between my crankshaft bearing press and my crankcase main bearing lapper. nah, wait one second, I'm wrong. It's between my connecting rod lapping arbor and my pinion gear puller and collars.
    okay, thanks!
    Tommyc, Jan 5, 2011
    #21
  3. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    If you are bleeding duals air can trap in the connection under the front
    trees. there are a lot of bends in them

    Always start with the lower of the two calipers

    I had a 98 RK that would never pump up,
    but after you bled it if you let it sit for
    two days with the handle bungee back
    the bubbles would work up themselves
    and bam firm handle...
    hotroadking, Jan 5, 2011
    #22
  4. Tommyc

    Tommyc Active Member

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    what does holding the handle back do? Does that fully open the circuit?
    Tommyc, Jan 5, 2011
    #23
  5. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Yep and lets gravity do the work.
    hotroadking, Jan 5, 2011
    #24
  6. cowboy

    cowboy Moderator Staff Member

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    yep & that's what I said in one of the first post :D
    cowboy, Jan 5, 2011
    #25
  7. whacker

    whacker Active Member

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    It ain't so bad, I have a couple of snowmobiles,so I can still ride in the winter....
    whacker, Jan 5, 2011
    #26
  8. Tommyc

    Tommyc Active Member

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    next step is I removed both front calipers and fully disassembled them. cleaned out 100% and replaced piston o-rings. I will reinstall them this weekend to see if that fixed the no front brake problem.
    I think it will work now. I found the pistons were almost fully siezed up from lots of super fine brake pad dust that was all kaked in around them. They were super super dirty. It was keeping the pistons from moving freely. I believe that was my problem. I will let you guys know. Rebuilding the master cylinder didn't help and there's no leaks in the system so this must be the solution.
    Tommyc, Feb 3, 2011
    #27
  9. cowboy

    cowboy Moderator Staff Member

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    yep that could be the problum for sure ,& Happy birthday tommyc:D
    cowboy, Feb 3, 2011
    #28
  10. Tommyc

    Tommyc Active Member

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    Thank you Cowboy!!
    That must be the problem, I checked everything else.
    Tommyc, Feb 4, 2011
    #29
  11. Tommyc

    Tommyc Active Member

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    Does anyone know if the brake lines get teflon tape at the threads on the screw-in connectors or is that not required?
    Tommyc, Feb 7, 2011
    #30
  12. cowboy

    cowboy Moderator Staff Member

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    there a fitted connection ,I use it sometime just as a safty step
    cowboy, Feb 7, 2011
    #31
  13. chucktx

    chucktx Moderator Staff Member

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    should not need the tape as it is a flare fitting. be sure both male and female threads are clean and the seats are clean...
    chucktx, Feb 7, 2011
    #32
  14. Tommyc

    Tommyc Active Member

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    That's the kinda definetive answer I was looking for. Thanks Chuck!!
    Tommyc, Feb 8, 2011
    #33
  15. Tommyc

    Tommyc Active Member

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    On the front brake calipers does it matter if the bleeder screw is on the top fitting or on bottom fitting?
    Tommyc, Jul 29, 2011
    #34
  16. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    I prefer the top, air rises, fluid is heavier, when you go to bleed air
    will get trapped at the top, if you have the bleeder at the bottom you'll never
    get them bled. JMO
    hotroadking, Jul 29, 2011
    #35
  17. Tommyc

    Tommyc Active Member

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    That's what I thought, thanks for confirming!
    Tommyc, Jul 29, 2011
    #36
  18. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    when you bleed, do the lower of the two calipers first (if it's on the jiffy stand)

    also taking a screwdriver or wrench and tap along the lines lightly
    moving from bottom up to get any loose air pockets moving.

    Take the top off the MC, have it full, pull the lever in and you should
    see air come out, keep doing it, then keep it filled

    Put the cover on, and then work the bleeders.
    hotroadking, Jul 29, 2011
    #37
  19. Tommyc

    Tommyc Active Member

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    Thanks. I'm having a bitch of a time getting the system bled down. I think there's a leak in the tee connection under the triple trees. When I pump the brake lever I get no resistance at all. How do I bleed them with no resistance? Must there be a leak?
    Tommyc, Jul 29, 2011
    #38
  20. bambidee

    bambidee Active Member

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    doing cars sometimes the volume of the master will not move an air pocket, esp on a verticle like a bike. if the calipher pistons are at least half out and have fluid in them can you push them back and bleed it backwards? BUT REMEMBER THE FLUID WILL OVERFILL THE MASTER be carefull bambidee
    bambidee, Jul 29, 2011
    #39
  21. bambidee

    bambidee Active Member

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    just another thought, if the pistons are all the way in on the caliphers maybe use your syringe full of fluid and push fluid back through system using bleeders. again watch for fluid in master, dont need brake fluid on paint
    bambidee, Jul 30, 2011
    #40
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