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front hub woes

Discussion in 'Motorcycle Tech Talk' started by Hogdog, Apr 17, 2014.

  1. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Go on fleabay and see if you can f ind a set of chromed lowers.

    Other option is to remove the clearcoat with aircraft paint stripper
    it's strong so remove the wheel and fender and caliper first.

    Then sand it down using progressively finer wet/dry sand paper, I
    prefer the wet, once it's down to a good finish (not completely smooth)
    hit it with self etching primer in a rattle can from an autoparts store, let it dry and get a good hold, then paint it with rattle can black, I got a super good gloss black enamel from Lowes that was pretty darn impervious to any rocks sand etc when I did the RG lowers a while back, did the cow bells and the lowers.

    Got a big ol plastic paint tarp from home despot/lowes poked two holes and ran it up the forks, taped it off, covered the bike with the tarp and did it on the bike... Took about two days, 12 cigars and a couple of scotches...
  2. cowboy

    cowboy Moderator Staff Member

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    I did mine with the Gords I mention before with 000 steel wool still on the bike about two Buds a side & office chair with the back cut off , they had never been cleaned that good since 94 ,looks close to chrome , so a little elbow grease & about 2 hours time they look good
  3. Hogdog

    Hogdog Active Member

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    My luck ran out with J&P hubcap, well ok it was made in china and it almost fit ( 1/2 mm). The ID of the hubcap is 56.5 mm and the hub shaft is 57.00. The gauge if the metal in the hubcap is 1mm. It would look great if I could make it fit. I can't decide whether to cut the inside flange of the hubcap so it can expand over the hub shaft and force it on or just return the dang thing. More bad news now that I have the wheel off I see the inside is gone also. The rear hub looks great, go figure. What a F____ (fill in the blanks) headache.

    Can't say I wasn't warned about china parts.
  4. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Return it and clean up the hub


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. joshbob

    joshbob Well-Known Member

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    I ended up modifying many of the parts I've gotten that "almost fit". Your call. This sounds like something you might be able to do yourself or take it to a machine shop and have them do it. Might be too much bother and expense, however.

    You should have the wheel bearings and spacer inspected. I had to go through all that because I bought a used wheel and hub. It turned out the bearings were still servicable but needed to be repacked with grease.
  6. Hogdog

    Hogdog Active Member

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    Breaking news today on the wide glide dirty hub saga,

    The hubcap, according to J&P, is designed to be pressed on and it looks as if it just needs to fit on the outer edge of the hub shaft rather than slide over it. J&P advised me to use a rubber hammer. This should be real fun, if it don't work I will just get a bigger rubber hammer!! The lower legs are finished, look pretty nice. What do I use to keep em that way?? Somebody mentioned "mothers wax". What is that??? Also the windscreen has some sort of coating and it has degraded to a very dull yellow look that can be scratched of with finger nail. Any suggestions on what to us to remove it (other than finger nails)? tried Novis scratch remover with limited success.

    thanks for your continued interest.
  7. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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  8. joshbob

    joshbob Well-Known Member

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    There are a lot of good metal polishes out there. I use Blue Magic. You might have to take your windscreen to a shop to get it professionally cleaned & buffed out as it is a lot of area to deal with.
  9. Hogdog

    Hogdog Active Member

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    The tales of this wind screen is unbelievable!!!! The windscreen on the wideglide is Lexan FMR. The Lexan scratches easily and does not weather well so GE came up with this clear coat (Thats the FMR part of the label) that is baked on and has degraded to a foggy haze over time. The darned stuff is impervious to several grades of buffing compounds, go-gone, Beer, Jim Beam, acetone, lacquor thinner and chrome polish, although the Jim Beam did make it appear better. I finally found that a sharp wood block can be used to scratch the stuff off without damaging the Ledxan underneath. Its a darned good reason to go without a windscreen!!!

    Wait till you see how the hubcap came out. It looks great, and went on with a little help from a 4 pound rubber hammer!! HRK's help regarding painting the outside cups of the hub made for a nice touch. Very pleased, thanks to all who expressed interest in this thread. Pics coming!!
    Last edited: May 7, 2014
  10. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Just find a shop in your area that works in lexan, take the windshield apart and over to the shop, they can cut you a new windshield...
  11. Hogdog

    Hogdog Active Member

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    Ok, here is the end of the front hub woes

    Notice the lowers, the came out like new, happy,happy

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: May 7, 2014
  12. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Nice. See you have s bigger hammer


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. joshbob

    joshbob Well-Known Member

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    Looks good.
  14. cowboy

    cowboy Moderator Staff Member

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    That hub looked about as good as mine did before I cleaned it up , I like the way the hub cap covers it all up , I just picked up a set of 16 in spoked wheels for my soft tail dumping the soild rear & going to try to swap the front 21 down to a 16
  15. joshbob

    joshbob Well-Known Member

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    The spoked wheels are the best looking ones. Never cared for the billet wheels.
  16. Roadster guy

    Roadster guy Well-Known Member

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    Nice improvement on the front hub repair. Looks good.

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