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Front Rotors Replacement

Discussion in 'Motorcycle Tech Talk' started by Red Rider, Jul 29, 2016.

  1. Red Rider

    Red Rider Well-Known Member

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    OK, I finally broke down and got new rotor discs for my '99 FLHR, Ol' Red. This is the simple kind of job that I:

    A. Do and everything is great and I wonder why I ever worried....
    or
    B. FUBAR and curse any initiative I may have to fix anything for years to come.

    So, the question is, what is there NOT mentioned in the manual that may bite my posterior and end up with Result B? Anything I should be mindful of?

    Feel free to school me now, before I get to it (it is well over 100f degrees in my garage now, and likely will be for a few days).
    Red Rider, Jul 29, 2016
    #1
  3. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Getting the bolts loose may require a breaker bar over a standard socket wrench. They are locktited.

    You will need locktite to use old bolts

    New bolts come with dry locktite on them

    Bolt down with torque wrench to spec

    You will have to remove calipers for the wheel to clear them I remove and hang over engine guard

    Only loosen the two lower nuts on the right side of wheel and don't over tighten when you do tighten do a little on each to bring up smooth. do not tighten them until the last step

    Put anti seize on inside of wheel bearings. Lightly on axel slip in axel be sure spacers are in there first then when through tighten big nut to set axel then tighten two nuts on clamp

    Reinstall calipers and do not touch brake lever ever until everything is back together that way pads won't compress


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    hotroadking, Jul 29, 2016
    #2
  4. Fatboy128

    Fatboy128 Well-Known Member

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    +1 IN ADDITION!!! The new rotors are probably a bit wider than the old ones. You may have to spread the brake pads (compress the caliper pistons) in order for fitment of the caliper over the new rotors.
    Fatboy128, Jul 30, 2016
    #3
  5. Red Rider

    Red Rider Well-Known Member

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    Thanks! Just the kind of tips I was looking for...and not mentioned in the manual. Breaker bar info is key, as I am always concerned about how much force to use, and being prepared to compress the pistons is, too. Again, not in the manual....thanks loads!
    Red Rider, Jul 30, 2016
    #4
  6. Red Rider

    Red Rider Well-Known Member

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    Can ya friggin believe it.......during the rotor replacement, one of the right side slider cap studs on the front fork BROKE off:eek:. Guess I'm stronger than I thought...or just plain unlucky:banghead. NAPA had the stud, so I did get it repaired & all is well. Test drive/post-test inspection is perfect and I like the look of the newer discs, too. Maybe the best part, though, was having the right disc off and confirming just how warped it was (about a centimeter from true) and at least not feeling like I replaced a working part.:cigar:
    Red Rider, Aug 1, 2016
    #5
    Lucifer and Fatboy128 like this.
  7. Red Rider

    Red Rider Well-Known Member

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    Oh, forgot to mention - no new bolts came with the discs! :wtf:. Good thing I had the red Loc-Tite on hand.
    Red Rider, Aug 5, 2016
    #6
  8. Fatboy128

    Fatboy128 Well-Known Member

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    I replaced my front rotor with w Harley Floating rotor, it didn't come with bolts either.
    Fatboy128, Aug 6, 2016
    #7

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