Handy Crafty

NOT BAD AT ALL, OF COURSE I'M STILL PAMPERING IT BECAUSE OF THAT OIL ISSUE, ONCE YOU SEE IT DO STUFF LIKE THAT YOU START TO EXPECT IT:roflmao: BUT THE FRONT DOSEN'T FEEL THAT HEAVY, HAVEN'T BOTTOMED OUT YET SINCE I FILLED THE TIRES UP, RIDES ALOT SMOTHER THAN BEFORE, DOESN'T HAVE ANY WOBBLE, ONLY THING I'M WATCHING IS THE REAR TIRE FOR SOME REASON IT'S REAL CLOSE TO THE BELT, DOSEN'T RUB BUT IF I ROLL THE BIKE BACKWARD IT WILL HIT IN ONE SPOT, ALMOST THOUGHT THE WHEEL WAS A LITTLE OFF, BUT IF I OFFSET IT ANYMORE THE WAY TO STOP THE BELT FROM GOING SIDE TO SIDE IT WILL RUB THE TIRE BUT LIKE I SAID GOING FORWARD IT GOES FINE.

helll of a nice job there sportsterboy the only thing that i would question is if it hits backwards and not forwards, there is a thrust issue, some thing like you say you need to watch, cause it sounds like some thing shifting for/aft.

OK so update man, how's she doin'? Inquiring minds want to know.

ALL IS GOOD, HASN'T FALLEN APART YET, LITTLE BIT OF SCRAPING HERE AND THERE IN LEFT HAND TURNS FROM THE KICK STAND, BUT ALL I CAN DO IS BE CAREFULL, ISN'T LIKE THE ROADS HERE ARE GREAT:roflmao: THINK I'M GOING TO INVEST IN A 18" REAR WHEEL AND A CHAIN CONVERSION, LOOKING AT IT NOW IF I GET A FLAT IN THE REAR I'LL PROB. BOTTOM OUT ON THE FRAME, WOULDN'T THAT BE FUN, MAYBE I SHOULD MOUNT SOME TITANIUM BLOCKS ON THE BOTTOM AND GET A HELL OF A LITE SHOW:roflmao:

Put My Front Fender On With Few Mod's, Made It Sit Lower To The Tire, Also The New Fork Stablizer. Got A New Cam Corder Camera, So Bare With Me, Still Try'n To Figure It Out.

You dang talented people just make me uke: . :roflmao: Once again man, sweet job. Oh and BTW I have stablizer envy now, thanks a lot.

LOL !! You can get a taller tire for the rear wheel you have - I know 'cause I got 140/90/16 rear tires for my street Sportsters & they're not only wider than the stock 130, they're taller too. As big as you can go on a '91-'03 Sportster without modifications & will just barely clear the belt. But my '95 has 12" Progressive shocks & even lowered, the larger tire does not hit the inside of the fender (or the wiring).

To go wider on your '03, Sportsterboy, you would need to do a chain conversion, but I sure wouldn't do it on a street/road bike. A lot more maintanence & will only give you room for a 150 - my 140 Metzelers are 146 mm wide as it is. We did go chain on a couple Land-Speed-Record bikes because we have to run Z-rated radial tires, a 150 is as narrow as you can get for a Sportster in the back & we didn't want to move the belt sprockets out.

The farther out you go, the more torsional stress you put on the transmission output shaft & you can make the tranny fail without an outboard shaft support bearing. Yeah, we can do that too, but you get into detailed & expensive fabrication work that's really only necessary for professional drag racing.

The other reason for chain-drive in the LSR applications is you have a LOT more sprockets to choose from & we got a box of 'em from Sprocket Specialists (no affliation). Gear the bikes so they cross the finish line @ peak HP in high gear.

But you can't pull redline in high gear with any Harley without *serious* modifications & the stock belt sprockets are just fine for everyday riding. And the belt lasts for years with no maintenance, other than making sure it's tracking straight by adjusting after a tire change.

Hey Art, My Tire Seems To Bubble Out In The Area That It Hits, When Rolling Backwards, Kinda Waiting Still To See If I Get To Keep My D-lic. Before Replace'n It, The Main Reason For Going With A Taller Rim, Is That I Can See That My Frame Is Ride'n Lower Than The Rear Rim Now And If I Get A Flat I'm Sure I'll Bottom Out, I Was Also Thinking Of Going With A 10 Over To Get Some More Out Of The Front. Sure Glad I Didn't Go With A 6, Like Paughco Told Me, But Then Agian I Did Alot That They Said I Couldn't, Like Use The Old Batt Box And Stock Brake.

Bubble out screams "new tire" to me !!! Got the stock 130/90/16 Rocklop on there? I'd see how far I could sling that thing - off into the junk pile !!

Going with a larger diameter wheel may be the best way for you to go the way you've modified the bike, but you'd want to look @ 17" wheels before 18" wheels & the availability of tires is why - there are far more available for 17" wheels.

You may very well know this, but I'll mention "aspect ratio" anyway - the ratio of how tall the tire is vs. how wide it is. For example, a 140/90 is taller than a 140/80, even though they're the same width. 140 refers to the width in mm's & the 2nd number refers to percentage - the 140/90 is 90% as tall as it is wide, the height being measured from the top of the rim to the top of the tire. The 140/80 is 80% as tall as it is wide.

"70 series", "60 series", etc. all refer to that percentage & I'm sure you've seen like 35 series tires on cars that look like really wide rubber bands on the wheels. So do a lot of measuring & checking around before you buy - wheels ain't cheap my friend & you need to know which tire with which wheel will accomplish your goal.