Hypothetical Build

JB I don't know what you do for a living but if you got any openings let me know. Somehow I seem to be spending more in the brothel than I'm making.

:devil:

Aloha....Mike

My wife and I are fairly comfortable. Here is the thing. Once I decide that I am going to do this, I will buy parts here and there and not all at once as I have obligations just like the next person. I certainly would have liked to have been able to buy everything for my current project all at once, but that just isn't how I do things. I did that once with and I wasn't (am not) completely satisfied with the results. I told myself that I would never buy a package deal again.

I would say this build turned out awesome. Buying slowly sometimes gives a person a chance to think and look around to see what would be the best fit, therefore giving you the product you have!

I wished you guys would have been around when I stroked the Dyna years back..89 inch. It was fast but a little fragile. Now that I'm going through this apprenticeship and learning about bearings, compressors and generally getting a better understanding of mechanics I would not have gone that route but a big bore instead. so to answer the question I would go with a relatively low compression large displacement engine that would happliy pull my bride and I with a loaded trailer up some of the mountain passes in Colorado without pinging. What I need to learn is how cams affect performance and how to select the proper cam for my application. I'll get around to that soon

Yeah,but rentals are cheaper than buying in the long run..:devil:

On some/most of the Evo's, big bore with stock cases was iffy...S&S didn't even offer their 96" sidewinder kit for '89-'92....all you could safely put in stock cases was the 89" stroker...you needed a new block if you wanted to go big bore...Would have added about $1200 to the bill when I looked into it...so I stuck with 80"...

I was doing some reading on HTT and there was a thread that was showing that the 594 Reaper is pretty strong in a 117" engine, but it looked that a 662 did better? Hmmm, I will have to look into that a little more..

. put the 594 on stilts hmmm now that's a thought

valve train geometry is super crucial if its not good the guides suffer if the guides suffer the valve job wont last at all in short time you start to loose compression , the valve is centrick to the guide any time you go above 590 lift its time for good support plates and roller rockers

Has anyone here ever used Lunati TC cams?

Lunati is owned by holley witch is also crane they are all in bed together. Your just buying a name . Same product. And now sns owns crane mc grind numbers.

If a person is running the tapered push rods, that alone doesn't correct the issue of the push rods hitting the tubes does it???

what i have found is the tapered push rods add more room but when you get above 570 lift you can have contact inside the tube . I set them up in the lathe a turn then down on the inside just a little then the push rods dont rub .the taperd ones seem to work the best and have the most room inside the tubes . You can push on the tubes with your finger while motor is running and feel them rub the tubes will flex very easy then the adjustment nut on the fatter end of the push rod will rub . There is not much room in there.

If you were using the Fueling cam plate and the Fueling oil pump, would you still use the Baisley LMR spring to gain more oil pressure even though Fueling claims more flow, pressure and better scavenging with that combo?

i wouldnt use either they are not a good set up the pump assemblys wet sump over night i dont like them and they are nothing but trouble stock plates with the pumps set up correct are awesome and no sumping! many of over 100 hp bikes out there with factory pumps and plates