Idle/mix Screw Plug

I think I'll start looking into the Metzeler's now. I got my bike at 2,400 miles. I've run for a little over 1100 miles now. I was planning on doing the 5000 mile service at HD, but I'm wondering if I will be better off at a custom shop, where they deal with Metzeler's. I'm planning on switching to synthetic oil as well. I guess I should separate the tune up, oil change over and tire change. That is if I don't find someone who can do all three. I'lll start talking to a friend who has his bikes serviced at a custom shop for years.

Wish I could do some of this myself like you Sportsterboy, but unless I work on a city street, I'm outta luck. How's your project going now?

NOTHING IS STOPING YOU, YOU LIVE IN NYC, I'M SURE PEOPLE WON'T CARE IF YOUR WORKING ON YOUR BIKE ON THE SIDEWALK:roflmao: ARE YOU ON A PCMP? I KNOW THAT THE SERVICE IS EXPENSIVE. I PULLED OUT THE BOOK AND WILL TELL YOU WHAT THEY ACTUALLY DO AT 5,000. CHANGE OIL, CHANGE TRANNY FLUID, LUBRICATE THROTTLE CABLE,CLUTCH,BRAKE LEVERS, STEARING HEAD BEARINGS, OTHER THAN JUST INSPECTING STUFF THATS ALL THAT GETS WORKED ON, WHICH I'M SURE YOU COULD DO YOURSELF FOR LESS THAN 50 BUCKS, THE 7500 SERVICE IS ALL INSPECTION, SO YOU WON'T HAVE TO DO ANYTHING TILL 10,000 , ALL THIS ONLY APPLYS IF YOUR RIDE'N ALL YEAR AROUND, PEOPLE LIKE US WHO LIVE IN THESE COLD PLACES DON'T RIDE BUT HALF THE YEAR, SO WE HAVE TO DO THINGS LIKE THE FLUIDS EVERY YEAR NO MATTER HOW MUCH YOU RIDE. SO I WOULD INVEST IN A OIL PAN. PRICE OF OIL PAN 10.00, OIL 20.00, FILTER 10.00, SPORTY TRANS FLUID 10.00. AGERVATIONS AND HASSLE PRICELESS:roflmao: GOOD LUCK.

Abso-positively-lutely go check out the independent shop & ask others where they go - bet you've got more than one good indy shop in the area. Now here's a little test I have - if the guy doing work for you doesn't want you watching, he's probably not very good. The best guys will not only show you what they're doing, but explain why they're doing it. That goes for all trades.

Will do Art, thanks.

Also A Good ? To Ask Is If They Will Install Parts You Buy Yourself, Like A Tire For Instance.

That's exactly what I was thinking Sportsterboy. If I get a deal on tires like Metzeler's, I'll need them installed and balanced. I imagine if I'm doing some other work like changing to synthetic oil or a tune up, changing tires will seem like a loss leader instead of a pain in their ass.

It would be nice if someone would do it happily though, I'm glad to pay a fair price for work done well.

The best folks do what they do because they like that type of work & happen to be really good @ it - they're not in the business just to make $$$. You can tell pretty quick too - which shop would you rather go to - the one with a sign "No customers allowed in service area", or the one where the guy says let me show you what the problem is & what we're going to do to fix it?

In defense of the no customers in service area folks. More times than not that is insurance regs. We have to keep in mind that a lot of folks riding today and having their bikes wrenched by someone else isn't your everyday run of the mill biker. They get hurt the least little bit and their lawyer will be calling the shop (if it isn't a lawyer that owns it to start with). It's a d@mn shame the stranglehold lawyers and insurance companies have on this Country as a whole.

WASHINGTON DOESN'T REQUIRE MOTORCYCLES TO CARRY INSURANCE, BUT THEY MAKE US WEAR A HELMET, ODD DON'T YOU THINK:roflmao: THEY EVEN MAKE A BICYCLE RIDER WEAR A HELMET:roflmao:OH YEA, CHECKED THE PLUGS TODAY, FRONT LOOKED OK, BACK WAS RUNNING RICH, THAT WAS AT 2.5 TURNS, SO I'M AT 2.25 NOW FOR AWHILE.

Yes, insurance contracts are a major part of the deal, but I don't go to shops like that - period. Every shop I deal with will invite you in, discuss in detail what needs to be done that you can't do yourself for one reason or another (i.e. I don't have a milling machine) & if you want to work on the project too you can. Insurance for any injury you may incur is your problem.

And if you don't know what you're doing, just watch - as mentioned, the best guys (& gals) will show you what they're doing & explain why they're doing it. You may not have the tools & equipment to do it on your own, but you will gain an understanding of why it's done this way.

FOR HELLBOYS SAKE I'LL MENTION IT, I RAN OUT OF GAS AT 80 MILES YESTERDAY:roflmao: FLIPED IT OVER TO RESERVE AND TO THE GAS STATION. DON'T KNOW YET IF IT'S JUST THE FACT THAT I'VE BEEN PLAYING WITH THE CARB, AND LETTING IT WARM UP FOR 15 MINUTES 2 TIMES A DAY, KNOW THERE IS STILL THE FACTOR OF MY TANK SITTING AT A HIGHER TRAVEL THAN BEFORE, BUT WITH A 3.3 GAL. TANK AND PUTTING IN THE ALMOST 3 GAL. WHEN RESERVE IS HOLDING A .5 GAL, SEEMS TO ME I'M SITTING ABOUT RIGHT AND USEING MORE GAS. PUT SOME WASHERS IN THE PIPES, LASTED THE TRIP AROUND THE BLOCK AND OUT THEY CAME. CAN'T SEEM TO GET THE SWEET SPOT, I'M RUNNING ALITTLE RICH AND SMOOTH, OR LEAN WITH A LITTLE CAUGH, SO I CHOSE RICH, I'LL RUN THIS TANK AND SEE IF THE GAS ISSUE CHANGES, IF NOT I GUESS I'LL HAVE TO ADDRESS IT ALSO, DON'T LIKE A V8 GAS MILEAGE:roflmao: I HAVE THAT NICE PROBLEM OF ONE JUG RUNNING GOOD AND THE OTHER RUNNING RICH, DON'T KNOW HOW TO MAKE THEM THE SAME.

Damn, that sucks Sportsterboy. I know you'll find the best fix for it though, you've got the right kind of determination to see it through properly. Good luck, keep us posted.

Simple - get rid of the drag pipes - or @ least install some slip-in baffles. Good friend of mine posted a good exhaust article & dyno charts here:
http://www.sportster.org/tech/exhaust-gc/

ALREADY READ THAT ONE ART, GOOD ARTICLE, THAT'S WHERE I PICKED UP ON THE ONE RUNNING RICH AND ONE NOT. AT LEAST I DON'T FEEL ALONE :roflmao: I'M PROB. JUST GOING TO BUY SOME 4" BAFFLES AND MAKE SOME NEW PIPES, THE PRICE OF PIPES OTHER THAN DRAGS IS REALLY OUT THERE FOR SOME SIMPLE BENT UP TUBE.

I used to make custom exhaust systems for cars/trucks/vans & the pipe you use for those applications is a lot thinner than what you use on a Harley. H-D exhaust systems are so expensive because you have to use much heavier guage pipe & also a mandrel bender which costs a LOT more than a pipe-bender @ a muffler shop.

However - since a lot of people have the pipes changed before taking delivery of a new bike, many H-D dealers have stock pipes gathering dust & will sell them for next to nothing or even give them away. Same with some indy shops & I'll give you an example: When I bought the '95 bike (used) it had the older SE I slip-ons (Cycle Shack style) but the previous owner had removed the baffles & didn't save 'em.

Loud was fun for about 2 days & I put the stock mufflers he did save back on because I couldn't find the baffles for the SE's - H-D dealers said they'd been "obsoleted". Then I stopped into an indy shop for a couple items & asked could they get the baffles? Check in the shop the parts guy said - might be some back there. Just so happened they were putting a new exhaust on a Sportster & had the stock system with slip-ons like mine laying in the floor - can I buy the baffles?

Mechanic said if you'll take that whole system out of my way you can have it - it's going in the dumpster anyway. I was driving the pickup @ the time, so I put the system in the back. Pipes were pretty much shot, slip-ons had a different mounting, but I didn't need them - just the baffles. Lots of WD-40, a big wooden dowel & my framing hammer to get them out But I also got them into my slip-ons.

So anyway, if you ask around, I'll bet you find a set of stock pipes for your bike for very little cost, or even for free. Then you can get some slip-ons like Cycle Shack, KromeWerks, etc. & get that engine running like it ought to.

i've talked to a few old timers and they say that a tire with the right air pressure cold should go up 3 lbs after the tires warm up. 1-2 to much air 4 0r more not enough. to soft a tire it won't carry the wieght especially in corners. to hard and the tire won't heat up enough to get the tire to grip the road. either problem can put you in trouble.