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intermittant noise in front cylinder . . .

Discussion in 'Motorcycle Tech Talk' started by joshbob, Oct 4, 2013.

  1. Roadster guy

    Roadster guy Well-Known Member

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    Move up north, usually to cold for vapor lock to occur, even at red lights while idling.
  2. charlie46

    charlie46 Well-Known Member

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    Maybe tour sheathing is collecting heat. Try running without it.
  3. Fatboy128

    Fatboy128 Well-Known Member

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    t

    The rubber is denser than normal. One would expect it to last longer with the gasohol we have now.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2
  4. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    I"d go with good old fuel hose, make sure that's what you get
    and try and route it so that it has no kinks and touches the cylinders as little as possible.

    That is easier on a CV because the fuel inlet is facing up so you can run the line higher up, with the SNS style you end up running the line further down between the cylinders as the fuel inlet is on the bottom.

    Make sure it's ethanol approved LOL
  5. Lucifer

    Lucifer Well-Known Member

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  6. joshbob

    joshbob Well-Known Member

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    Thanks everybody. As far as moving farther north - no thanks:rolleyes:. Been there (northern Ohio), done that.
    Lucifer, I'll get a piece from the dealership as I think it is different from the stuff they sell at Auto Zone.
    Last edited: Nov 8, 2013
  7. charlie46

    charlie46 Well-Known Member

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  8. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    same stuff, don't pay dealer prices for hose just get good quality hose,
    napa, autozone no need to get fuel line for double the price...
  9. joshbob

    joshbob Well-Known Member

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    Just found out I have two different hose barb sizes LOL. 5/16" on the CV carb & 3/16" on the petcock. Always something, ain't it? Should I try splitting the difference and use a 1/4" i.d. fuel hose? The one I have now is 5/16" i.d.
  10. Fatboy128

    Fatboy128 Well-Known Member

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    Don't you have the hose reducer tool?


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  11. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Run 5/16, the clamp on the petcock will seat it shut.
  12. Lucifer

    Lucifer Well-Known Member

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    You don't need a stock length either, measure your length and they'll cut you a quality fuel hose,they probably have the hose covers too,just a ribbed plastic tube to protect the hose from heat or debris...altho dealer price is not bad for the insulator....Tattoo prolly has a couple laying around,they just keep the hose from touching the fins
  13. joshbob

    joshbob Well-Known Member

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    Then I'll run my old hose - that's what it is: 5/16" - and I got it at Auto Zone if I remember correctly. Guy on the shovelhead forum made a piece of coathanger wire and wrapped it loosely around a section of his fuel hose. I like the COB solution - it looks pretty cool and it costs ZERO! I think I have an old section of throttle cable wire that I might try.
    Last edited: Nov 8, 2013
  14. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    don't, you do not want metal that conducts heat around the hose, and metal that can rub and create a cut ,

    Just run the fuel line as best as possible you'll be fine.. You gas farts might have been a function of the crappy petcock, the new one is gravity fed and will outflow the other, remember to turn it off when you park the bike..
  15. joshbob

    joshbob Well-Known Member

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    I discovered that the old wing style petcock did seep a little when shut off. I turned it on to drain the gas into a can and there were no obstruction problems, though - flowed like gangbusters. Hope the new one will function like it's supposed to. Will pick it up next week.
    Have to wait till the end of the month to get the cam cover, but once the petcock is on the tank, I'll be able to ride if it ain't too cold out. Right now it's a balmy 31.
  16. cowboy

    cowboy Moderator Staff Member

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    Man a balmy 31 you should be out riding darn it's a balmy 71 here have the house all opened up , we are souposed to be down in the 30's later this week
  17. joshbob

    joshbob Well-Known Member

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    20131111_5 (640x480).jpg 20131111_6 (640x480).jpg Yesterday I think I may have run into a new problem concerning the manifold & carb fitment:

    I have an early Keihin (butterfly carb) manifold that connects to the intakes with the old style clamps and flat rubber seals. But I'm using a CV carb with an aluminum adapter. The intake holes don't quite match up (one is bigger than the other). But the bike has run fine this way.
    I've been told to add a phenolic insulator to sandwich between the manifold & carb. I have one and mocked it up yesterday, but problem is, none of this stuff lines up either inside or outside which I think will cause turbulence, and also looks crappy from the outside. All three parts are slightly different shapes and sizes. The phenolic insulator will help eliminate vaporlock by keeping the carb cooler, so I'd like to use it. But I will have three different diameters for the gas to pass through. Hmmm . . .
  18. baggerpaul

    baggerpaul Well-Known Member

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    Josh. Send it to me ill port match it for ya and blend it as needed with out making it bigger than it needs to be
    Lucifer likes this.
  19. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    THat's a good offer...
  20. joshbob

    joshbob Well-Known Member

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    BP, should I send the phenolic isulator too?

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