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Jetting help needed

Discussion in 'CVP Stage 1 Tuners Kit' started by 98lowrider, Aug 18, 2014.

  1. JohnnyBiker

    JohnnyBiker Well-Known Member

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    I could be wrong, but I am sure that there is a 44 available. I may have one around here somewhere. I will look and see. If I do, you can have it.
  2. HarleysLR

    HarleysLR Active Member

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    Needles make a big difference, they may look the same but are not if you check them from top to bottom and check the tapper,
    I've had the best luck with the 88 year sporty needle, or the stock needle in the middle grove.
  3. kenfuzed

    kenfuzed Administrator Staff Member

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    Hi 98lowrider, lets try to get you back to basics so a good baseline can be established.

    1. Make sure you are not using the emulsion tube from the former DynoJet kit (they won't work with stock or CVP jets). The CVP tube has side holes along the tube in a diagonal pattern.
    2. Verify that there are no shims or washers placed under the needle (leftovers from DJ kit). The only thing that should be installed through the top of the slide are; needle, plastic spring holder, and spring - in that order.
    3. Check that the needle jet nozzle is installed correctly above the emulsion tube. See #2 at: http://www.cv-performance.com/harley-cv-carburetor-tuning-issues/
    4. Clean out the air passages. These passages are notorious for getting clogged.
      See #3 at: http://www.cv-performance.com/harley-cv-carburetor-tuning-issues/
    5. For your EVO 1340 start with jetting: 45/180.
    6. Adjust the mixture screw out to 2 turns from seated. Double check that the EZ-Just is actually seating first. When seated there should only be 2 threads of the EZ-Just showing max. Also check that the mixture packing o-ring is in place and has not twisted inside the passage.

      Don't neglect some of the less obvious non-carburetor related issues (not in any particular order):
    7. Check that the gas cap has not gone bad. A gas cap with a sticking vent will starve the carburetor as load/RPM increases.
    8. Bad VOES.
    9. Corroded battery cables or poor ground connections. This will certainly mess with the ignition.
    10. Bad plug wires. A bad wire can be very intermittent.
    11. Vacuum leaks, vacuum leaks, vacuum leaks. I can't emphasize how critical a vacuum leak can be and how often these are easily overlooked. Vacuum leaks are the #1 cause of carburetor or fuel related issues. If not already done, change the 2 seals between the manifold and heads, and the boot seal between the manifold and the spigot end of the carburetor. If you can push the carburetor onto the boot seal without any force you need a new seal.
    12. Almost all off-idle hesitations (coughs) are caused by a lean condition. This lean condition can only come from 3 areas; pilot jet is too small, mixture screw adjusted too lean, or VACUUM LEAK.
    13. Did I mention vacuum leaks? :D
    14. Deceleration pop (crackle) is caused by exhaust leaks and not directly carburetor related. Bad exhaust seals (head pipe to exhaust port of head) can allow cooler air to be pulled backing into the combustion chamber during deceleration. A poor seal between slip-on mufflers and the pipes can also contribute. This causes the lean pop and crackle. It may seem strange but a correctly tuned carburetor can often make this condition seem worse since the carburetor is not throwing an overly rich mixture at the problem, though it goes without saying that a vacuum leak will certainly exaggerate the problem. Sometimes adjusting the mixture screw out another 1/8th turn can reduce this condition but the true fix is to correct any exhaust leaks or reduce exhaust reversion.
  4. kenfuzed

    kenfuzed Administrator Staff Member

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    Its common for the needle to have a slight amount of play. The spring retainer typically holds it enough as the slide moves up. This also helps the needle center itself in the needle jet nozzle, whereas a tight fitting needle could potentially rub against a side of that nozzle and eventually create a wear pattern.
  5. HarleysLR

    HarleysLR Active Member

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    If it was me I would start at the beginning, make sure the boots on both cylinders to intake are not sucking air, I would get a diagram of the carb and take it apart one more time, and make sure it is assembled correctly, and with all the parts in the right places, I'd put the 45 pilot and a 170 or 180 main, I'd set the needle screw is 2- 2.5 turns out. I would put a little bit of grease on the inside of the carb to manifold boot and slide the carb in as I twisted it into the location needed to keep it in the correct position. Make sure the carb is not sucking any air outside of the filter.
    If you do not have any air leaks, your problem is some place else, these carbs are pretty much bullet proof and very simple to work on. My guess is you keeping making the same mistake over and over. Take your time and be patient as you do it one last time. If you need a diagram for the carb just ask someone.
    FLHTbiker likes this.
  6. JohnnyBiker

    JohnnyBiker Well-Known Member

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    Maybe it is time to take it into a pro wrench? From what it sounds you have gone through that carb more than once to no avail. However the last thing to try is to shim the needle. If that doesn't work, then bring it in. No shame in that.
  7. JohnnyBiker

    JohnnyBiker Well-Known Member

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    WTF are you at WOT right off of idle for?
  8. JohnnyBiker

    JohnnyBiker Well-Known Member

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    Guesstimate, at what throttle position? Right off of idle, .025 throttle, .500 throttle position?
  9. FLHTbiker

    FLHTbiker Moderator Staff Member

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    I really doubt that's it's the problem with the kit. I've used Kens kits with great success.
  10. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    My guess is you have another issue that is causing your issues,
    you had them before the kit and you still had them after.
  11. Roadster guy

    Roadster guy Well-Known Member

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    Read through the posts looking for something missing, really suprised by lack of success with the carb kit if installed correctly, and it sounds like you have gone through it from top to bottom.
    What is the sparkplug condition in all of this? I see no mention of checking them for fouling or checking their gap, unless I missed something. With all the other success in all the other carbs by all the other users, I am still puzzled by your not having the situation repaired with this if the problem is in fact carb based.
    Either way, good luck with the bike.
  12. JohnnyBiker

    JohnnyBiker Well-Known Member

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    My guess is that he has a screwed up head gasket. It is still possible that even though he did the propane testing, that one, or both is screws up. I had that happen to me right before I redid the top end on my Sportster. It was backfiring and couldn't get it right. We didn't discover the bad head gasket until we pulled the top end.
  13. JohnnyBiker

    JohnnyBiker Well-Known Member

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    You won't. If you have gone that far it isn't much further at all to pull the head. But it is your bike. Good luck.
  14. JohnnyBiker

    JohnnyBiker Well-Known Member

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    Not always no. It didn't on my Sportster. Like I said, I didn't find it till we pulled the head.
  15. Roadster guy

    Roadster guy Well-Known Member

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    Would it show up during a compression test?
  16. JohnnyBiker

    JohnnyBiker Well-Known Member

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    Hard to say for sure. If you knew what the compression was on each cylinder prior I would think that you have a good shot at it. But there is an acceptable difference allowable between cylinders so one may check it, be within the allowable range and still think that the the head gasket is good.

    It's drawing in air from somewhere.
  17. cardboard

    cardboard Well-Known Member

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    Lot of Guessing going on here. Maybe take it to a mechanic that knows what to do and have it fixed.
    Problem solved.
    FLHTbiker likes this.
  18. Roadster guy

    Roadster guy Well-Known Member

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    True, but if everyone on this forum "took it to a mechanic" all the time, wouldn't be much of an interesting forum, just a whole bunch of posts of pics of receipts. ;)
  19. cardboard

    cardboard Well-Known Member

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    And you wouldn't have so many bikes with something wrong with them.

    The 1st thing you do is run a compression test. Then a spark test.
    Then you look at the Fuel, How old is it.
    Is the screen in the tank got anything in it.
    Does it have water or trasn in it.
    Then you look at the hoses. Has the ethanol eatten the hose up and particles from it has gotten in the carb.
    And if you took the carb off. Did you damage the needle and seat.
    Did you use a torch tip cleaner and clean the ortiface holes out.
    Did you set the float adjustment right.
    Did you refer to the manual for the air and fuel screw.

    If the carb getting gas correctly to it.

    It ain't it might be this. Or the head gasket might be the problem.
    Or the back tire might be low.

    A lot of people Bad mouth Harleys because parts fall off. And they always have to be worked on.
    Problem is a lot of people want to be Harley mechanics. They want to work on them all the time.
    You don't have to work on these bikes all the time.
    You refer to the manual and do what it says. Then you can ride the bike and enjoy it
    And people ain't seeing it broke down, or seeing the problems with it.

    I've ridden Carbed bikes most of my life before I went to fuel injection.
    Never had all the problems of it is spittin and poppin a lot.
    I kept good fuel in it. Kept the hoses replaced , new clamps on it.
    Kept the screen in the fuel tank Petcock area cleaned and checked.

    I rode the bike everyday to work, and rode it on the weekends. I wasn't working on it all the time.
    And having problems.
    One of my bikes had a linkert carb on it.
  20. FLHTbiker

    FLHTbiker Moderator Staff Member

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    I'm with you CB, and then there are those people who don't like to ride much but would rather tear their bikes apart so they can work on them.

    I've done wrenching from cars to bikes to machinery to Deisel motors, to boilers to steam equipment, even repaired Dynomometers and was in charge of the building maintenance for a large corporation. I can do it and still do a lot of it but then there are times when you go ain't doing it again been there done that.

    There are also those who can't afford to take it to a mechanic and are forced to learn that was me when I was young.
    One of the first things you mentioned was a compression test but if you don't know how to do that then you better take it in to a mechanic.

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