new cams

Gear cams are all the rage, on a mild hopped up bike like you're doing they IMHO are not necessary, best bet is to pull the cam cover and take a look at the tensioners.

There are guys with 100K on theirs and some with 5K, depends on the build and some thing the riding style, long distance riders keep the rpms up and the oil pressure up which keeps things lubricated better is the theory.

Gears get ride of the chains and tensioners and may free up a few poinies but at a cost of about $400 extra over chain driven cams. So it's a personal preference. If you were to go big bore, high pressure springs on modified heads with high lift cams (590+ lift) then gears are a good idea, over 600 gears are probably a great idea.

211 is a good cam but the power band is going to be up the RPM a bit, if you want lower RPM power the 204's would work.

Andrews tw26A is a good cam, if you want to do a little head work then tw37b's.

Kuryakyn has a new set of cams, the mauf. Mike Rowland has said the WG-1 (Wild Things) is a good cam for stage 1 and is gear drive. It has higher intake and lower exhaust pattern lifts, most HD cams are the same on both ie
510 lift Intake 510 lift exhaust, where Kuryakyn is saying 510 intake 485 exhaust to help keep low end tq up.

I haven't seen or run them but the dyno charts look good.

Hobo,

What I think is the best thing to do is get a shop that will take your stock heads and work them to the cams and compression build you want.

Short Block Charlie is one of the best in the country and will build the heads to compliment the cams and isn't the most expensive. IMHO a great option do it in your down time (I bet that's often in HI isn't it LOL)

Other excellent head work is done at:

www.t-manperformance.com

www.undergroundheads.com

Both are high quaility as well. Check DP for a good price on cams from S&S or Andrews, in your case tw37B and S&S 570s are good.

Your 88 was designed as a 95 inch that's why HD drop in cylinders fit perfectly LOL and a good seasoned set of 88 cylinders are ripe for boring out.

I would seriously consider big bore if you're pulling the heads, you're just a set of pistons and a bore job away. It's not hard on the motor and it's a better way to make a larger tq band. IMHO you'd be nuts to pass on the pistons and bore for what $300 - $400 tops including the pistons, rings and machine work.

SBC will bore the cylinders to fit the pistons, which you could get here at DP, with those cams 10 to 1 would be an acceptable compression ratio to get the power out, should be in the low 90's easy.

VYBR8R

I don't doubt your problem, however in the overall scheme of things
I haven't heard any other complaints however I do know that in that time frame one of the big magazines did a huge article on them and gave them the thumbs up for great work and price, after that they were swamped with work, couldn't keep up and admitted this.

Such is the price of fame.

I believe they are back on track, and they have an overall good rep, sorry you had problems, Charlie and Hippo are on other boards and have always been very helpful and informative.

Im suprised they didn't make it right for you.

Hobo

A well built 95 will run with hd's off the floor 103 and probably spank it pretty bad.

A well built 103 will run good too just like you said $$ more.

If it were me I 'd get the S&S 106 stroker kit from S&S vs the 103 for the same money.