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New update

Discussion in 'CVP Stage 1 Tuners Kit' started by Yachtman, Mar 25, 2010.

  1. chucktx

    chucktx Moderator Staff Member

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    keep us posted.............getting interesting now!!! lol lol
  2. Yachtman

    Yachtman New Member

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    :witsend: :gah: :banghead: :roflmao:

    I don't suppose anyone knows who sells the wrench for these bolts? Not mail order, drive thru! :fight:
  3. chucktx

    chucktx Moderator Staff Member

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    i dont have any "special" wrenches for any bolts on my bike......i use craftsman tools.....what is special about yours??
  4. Yachtman

    Yachtman New Member

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    Nothing special about mine, for certain. What wrench do you use to loosen the left side intake manifolds bolts. Tight squeeze and no leverage. I tried one thing, but it broke.
  5. chucktx

    chucktx Moderator Staff Member

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    i believe i use an angle head in a box end configuration.
  6. Yachtman

    Yachtman New Member

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    It's a round Allen headed bolt! (too tired to even remember the correct name)
  7. chucktx

    chucktx Moderator Staff Member

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    it may have been changed......or not.....if a regular allen wrench wont go in properly, try cutting a bit of it to make it shorter.....use a box wrench on the long part of the shaft for a bit more leverage.....soak it good with liquid wrench or some such......
  8. Yachtman

    Yachtman New Member

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    Tried that, nothing. Even tried cutting the 'ball end' off the 1/4" allen to make a 1" piece, then a small box end. Thin box end and it broke from the tube I had over it to get some torque. I've seen the specific wrench on the net for 35.oo +/- but I can't wait for the shipping time and overnight would probably be expensive. Might still be less than a tech, but the time. We just recently sold one of the cages and untill I find another, we are spitting the SUV, her '05 Kawi 800, or mine. And she doesn't ride mine. Fortunately the weather has been awesome and I have a mostly flexible schedule.

    But I'm willing to listen to any other sound idea.
  9. chucktx

    chucktx Moderator Staff Member

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    i believe you said in another post about taking it to the local shop.....if he has the wrench you need....i would be on my way.....

    it sounds like there is loctite on the threads....if you can get a punch in there and hit it the bolt may break free...or some localized heat.........
  10. Yachtman

    Yachtman New Member

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    I did try some fluid/spray to break it loose, but up until today was trying to keep solvents away for as long as possible. Just using the carb cleaner to check for the leak raised my blood pressure! I'll think some on the punch idea overnight, as I think I'll probably be a little sleepless. I already did a little ding during this, so I'm paranoid. It was my fault, with no towel in the area. Fortunatley it's very hidden.

    I'll ask to maybe borrow or rent the tool, but it would be quite a few hours during the day for my slower moving hands to take off the carb, the manifold and etc... It's a good idea though, Chuck. Actually, that's his name! He just opened a shop after many years with the local HD Service.

    Also, I tried to find the torque spec in the manual for the bolts but couldn't find it. I'm sure it's there but since it's all leverage on that side for a wrench, I'm gonna quess it a solid hand tightening. Anyone have that number in their head??
  11. chucktx

    chucktx Moderator Staff Member

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    if you have the factory service manual, look in the front index......it will mention torques and values. it will also be in the cylinder overhaul section.....removal and inspection and reassembly......
  12. Yachtman

    Yachtman New Member

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    See! My tired eyes went right passed it! Thanks.

    So as a side q, what 1911 am I staring down the barrell of? A Wilson? I'm a Kimber Custom man myself.

    Well, I'm off to count some backwards moving sheep.

    Thanks guys for the help, and I'll let ya all know!! Keep some fingers crossed that it's 'actually' what started this snowball going in the first place.

    Thanks again.
  13. kenfuzed

    kenfuzed Administrator Staff Member

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    To get those bolts off I usually run the bike for a minute to get the heads heated, then pull off the carb quickly so I can get a wrench and prybar (or end of box wrench) on the bolt while its still warm. Cold bolts with loctite never cooperate.
  14. Yachtman

    Yachtman New Member

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    Okay, you got me one more time.

    The heat sounds good. I hadn't tried that. But I'll try it. But..... The right sides came out soooooooo easy. Ken, what wrench are you using that can fit in the little space there is on the left side. My thumb barely fits! It's a 1/4" allen which barely fits after being cut down!? (yes, I did remove the horn!!)
  15. kenfuzed

    kenfuzed Administrator Staff Member

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    I have always just used a short ball end 1/4" hex key and then loop the closed end of a box wrench around it for leverage. I've busted my share of allen keys so I always try to pick up the quality hardened ones.

    For as many bikes as I've worked on I can honestly say I have very few specialty tools... I'm all about struggling and cussing and busting my knuckles until I figure out how to make something work. However the one tool I never do without is a service manual for my model.
  16. HarleysLR

    HarleysLR Active Member

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    How's it going with the carb up grade project? get the air leak taken care of?
  17. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    I cut down a 1/4 allen to about 1 to 1.5 inches long, long enough to easily get into the right side of bike allen bolts but not interfere with the intake, I use a short 1/4 open end wrench and loosen the bolts.

    On the left side I do the same, however once the allens are out I replace them with traditional hex head bolts. Life is much easier with the hex heads as you can use a full length 1/2 open end wrench....
  18. Yachtman

    Yachtman New Member

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    Hello again!

    NOTE/EDIT: due to space issues, I've had to split this post in to 2 parts

    I've been so busy that I haven't been able to ride much since finishing the manifold and carb installs.

    I hope all is well with all of you out there. The weather here is absolutley amazing. Hopefully yours is getting better, and warmer.

    1st, I got the manifold off and replaced the seals. Tested it after install and found the same leak in the same spot, with the carb cleaner. I told this story to a tech and he said I was probably spraying from the left side of the bike with the air cleaner on. I said yes and he explained that I should have done it from the right side as I was probably getting suction of the cleaner into the carb. So I went home (I was in the car) and went for a ride, came home and tried the seal from the right side, spraying into the same spot/area and nothing. No surges at all. Damn, all that work for nothing.
    At the same time I fully clean and rebuilt the carb again.

    2nd, as far as the carb goes. I have to go 4 turns on the EZ, as any less gets rough idle. And I've tried high idle, low and everyhting in between, as far as I can tell anyway. At 4 turns the bike still runs rough at the same rpms. And not so smooth at idle either. 20 mph in 2nd gear, 30 in 3rd and so on till 40 in 4th. And I mean trying to go 30 mph in a 30mph zone is terrible. The hotter the bike gets, the worse the shake/roughness. So after a while at 35mph in 3rd, requires going to 4th, but that has its own pattern also.

    3rd, as far as acceleration goes, it's much snappier on the throttle. Very quick results when the wrist turns. I get some hesitation when n 2nd gear and trying to burst up to 3rd, going from 35 to 50 mph. Not a good thing. And I've also noticed, and I haven't practiced again, at slow speeds the bike has a much different attitude/personality. Trying to do small u-turns and figure 8s is almost difficult now. Very jerky. So the slow speed personality has changed dramatically, but some practice should change that. And I'm very good at slow speeds.

    4th, high cruise speeds I haven't been able to check. But I will tomorrow or Sat, depending on the weather Fri.

    More to follow. I've had to shorten the text, so please see next post!!

    Thanks,

    Yachtman
  19. Yachtman

    Yachtman New Member

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    Part two. Continuation of previous post.

    Plugs look a little lean, which surprises me. With 4 turns out, and 5 would even be a better idle response, I'd think it would be rich. But again, I've only put around 150 miles on her at mostly in-town speeds.
    I put the 48/195 combo in. And the Ductor is still on the the table. (every plate and bolts aligns up perfectly without it so for the time being I'm leaving it off)

    Do I need to go up to a 50 slow to bring the screw back to around 3 turns? When adjusting idle I notice that the idle speed picks up rpms as I go further out toward 5-6 turns. No tach but it's easy to hear and feel it smooth out. 2 turns and she dies, with a good cough first. 3 turns and it smooths out but at least 4 seems needed.

    The stock screw was around 2.25 turns, and if you went out towards 4, it would get rough again. That's what confuses me so much. Any 'idle speed directions' I've read always states to screw in till it roughens and then out till it roughens and then screw it back in to spilt the difference. I can screw out to 10 and it just idles along. And of course the needle gets all wobbly.

    So that's my story, sad but true. Any more help would be great.
  20. HarleysLR

    HarleysLR Active Member

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    Have you tried the stock air mixture screw again to see how it runs with it in? 10 full turns sounds like a lot for the EZ adjust screw to still be in the threads.

    If it were me I'd pick up another carb off ebay and try it to see what happens.

    CV Carburetor American, buy and sell Motorcycle Parts on eBay Motors

    or try your local craigslist.

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