Newb - few questions ..please bare with me

No bearings in it...Only thing I wouldn't want soaking is the slide diaphragm or accelerator pump O ring....Since you have the float bowl off and slide removed,no rubber to worry about...You don't need to submerge the whole carb body,just enough to cover the needle jet...It may be a good idea to drop the main and pilot jet along with emulsion tube in the container with the carb body and let them soak too,then borrow the wifes toothbrush and give them a good scrubbing,you're going to want to make sure all the holes in the jets and tube are clean...

Do you have a service manual??If not, you really should get one...best tool you can have...
When removing the float, the pin only goes out in one direction...
From the "03 Service Manual:
CAUTION: Tapping the float pin out from the squared pedestal side will result in damage that requires carburetor replacement.

Using a small center punch and hammer,carefully tap the float pin from the holes in pedestals. The rounded pedestal has an interference fit to ensure the float pin is securely held,so always tap out the pin in the direction of the cast in arrow(that is from the interference side.

Yes I have a service manual and the float pin removed too

Soaked the parts in b12 chemtool, that's good stuff cleaned the parts up nicely

Good.

Here is another question..my cvp tuning instructions say I need to set my rpm at a certain level..but my bike doesn't have a tachometer..how do I find what rpm the bike is idling at?

Is this for setting the idle mixture?? Factory idle speed is 950-1050 RPM's...I think the instructions want you to slow the idle speed a little to make it easier to find(hear) the point where turning in & out the idle mix screw makes the engine stumble...You don't have to have an exact RPM setting...Just turn down the idle 1/8 or 1/4 turn to slow the idle and remember how much you turned it... Then you can begin to adjust the idle mixture...

thanks! also..is the 3 sided or 4 sided float better to use..? i *think* mine came with 4 sided originally..i was sent a 3 sided in my CVP kit..thanks.

found a harley article from 91 stating:

"Four sided fuel inlet valves may be used in any Keihin
carburetor. Three sided valves should not be used in CV
carburetors."

Is this the article??

http://www.harley-davidson.com/en_US/Media/downloads/Service/isheets/-j01099.pdf

My '90 came with a 3 sided valve...in '92 HD went with a 4 sided valve...I changed mine to the 4 sided one....I don't think you can get a stock 3 sided valve anymore...The one in your kit isn't stock...

My uncle gave me a 4 sided genuine Harley valve..the cvp one is 3 sided..not sure which one I should use..I'm guessing that hd upgraded from 3 sided to 4 cause the 4 is better..thought I read somewhere the 4 sided doesn't hang up like the 3..Any insight?

The 3 sided valve did have a potential to get stuck...and some did....Can't remember if mine did or not ...lol...I guess enough did so that HD changed to the 4 sided type...the extra rib kept it in line better...I'd go with the 4 sided one...

Awesome,.thank you! I'll use the 4 side..wonder why cvp included the 3 side if it's inferior

HD changed floats at the same time....From this dumbbell type,





To this type


IMO...The 4 sided valve is better...But the change in floats was more of an improvement...

got the bike running great! THANK YOU VERY MUCH EVERYONE WHO RESPONDED!

funny side note..i put the carb back in, after rebuildling it..turned the fuel on and excitedly cranked the engine over..to my dismay, it cranked and cranked and back fired a few times..after many curse words and a near toddler tantrum i glanced at the coil pack and noticed the plug wires were backwards on their respective cylinders....swapped them around, cranked it up and it came to life immediately....felt like an idiot but was very happy it started up and took a nice ride around town

LOL...You're not the only one that's done that....

That's great...Enjoy the ride!!!