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Oil temp

Discussion in 'Motorcycle Tech Talk' started by mojeda, Sep 8, 2008.

  1. kenfuzed

    kenfuzed Administrator Staff Member

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    Watching this closely as this has the potential to turn into another one of those oil arguments.

    My 2 cents worth - I only use multigrade oils (20/50 engine, 10/40 primary) designed for motorcycle use. I haven't had to use straight weight oil since my last Shovel and personally wouldn't use it in my new Twin Cam. Then again if I were racing I might use straight weight oil, but as long as I'm only cruising and still want to keep my mpg in check I'll be sticking with 20/50 synthetic.

    Back to oil temps... my last Heritage ran 200 winter and 240 summer here but always stayed fairly consistent. Dip stick gauges aren't the most accurate but they are probably ok to see when theres a major temp swing. The right butt cheek method is also just as good. I think I have my butt cheek calibrated at around 260 to tell me when there's a problem :p
    Last edited: Sep 14, 2008
  2. Panthera

    Panthera New Member

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    Sorry, I said 05 when it is a 95, missed the 9, hit 0.
  3. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Interesting article in AI by Donny Peterson on oil temps, oil and oil coolers.

    October Issue on the newstand now!:D
  4. grandpa tom

    grandpa tom New Member

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    Your 88in might be different from my 07-96in, but for the first 1K with dipstick temp not digital, my oil ran 235-250, after stage 1 and syn oil on all three on hiway usually 215-220, 220-240 in city traffic...
  5. Art_NJr

    Art_NJr New Member

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    Yes, for chilly weather if you're talking about conventional. In that case a 20W50 would be better. The 1st number tells you the base weight of the oil & what it acts like cold & the 2nd tells you the upper heat range it can handle. In other words (in theory), with a 20W50 you'd be starting the bike with 20 weight oil, but once it warmed up, it'd be like running 50 weight. And as you've seen, in chilly weather, Harleys never do warm up to the point they do in hot weather, even if you ride all day.

    If you choose a synthetic it's different in that they act like a multi-grade & switching weights from cool weather to hot is not necessary. The synthetic I often use (Red Line) carries 2 ratings - SAE 50 & 20W50 but it's not multi-grade. I had a long talk with the chemical engineer & what it boils down to is that the SAE 50 flows so well cold it can pass all the tests for a 20, so it can carry the multi-grade rating & that's what people are used to seeing, so that's what they put on the label.


    I use the recommended 75W90 weight gear oil year 'round - used to use the conventional H-D SportTrans then switched to (Red Line) synthetic. Gear oils are rated differently so while that sounds like a heavy oil it's not - actually closer to a 20W50. Problem I have with Amsoil is their advertising, but I know some folks who have used the product for a long time & are very satisfied with it. Really any quality brand is fine - it's the weight & formulation that matters.

    And there's one more thing for the primary - the "friction modifier" additive. If you're old enough, you'll remember the days when if you had a vehicle with a "Pos-I-Traction" differential, you had to pour in a little bottle of additive when changing fluid or you wouldn't have "Posi" 'cause the clutches would slip. Nowadays the additive is already mixed in with many gear oils - but not all of them & you have to read the label. But if it says recommended for use in limited slip differentials, you're fine.

    Some motorcycle engine oils have the additive too because in numerous bikes (other than Harley), the engine & trans share the same oil & they have a "wet clutch" too. But again, you have to read the label to see if it's got the "limited slip" additive for the clutch. I do not buy the "one size fits all" deal of using the same oil in the engine, trans. & primary in Harley, but if the product has the right formulation you can get away with it.

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