Parts List

Dude, I am just not interested in the Woods cam or products. Actually Zippers has talked me out of the actual cam that I wanted in the first place which was the .575 of theirs, they don't come in where I want them to.

You talk about over camming your engine, it was Woods that suggested with the Sportster that I go over .600 lift and I in a nice way said that it wasn't going to happen.

You say that the parts have to work in "harmony," Really, are you kidding me or what???? No kidding. Just because you may not like Red Shift doesn't mean that some one else that does is wrong or is an idiot. Also you have to be kidding that I have to change my springs when I do the .557 cam. DUH...
It sounds like you don't know the Red Shift cams very well yourself because according to Zippers, the 557 cam come in hard at about 2300 through about 4800, man that puts me right where it is that I want to be... sounds like a great choice to me.....

As far as the person that I know that is running his bike to the point that his rev limiter hits before he reaches the peak power, well, he is an idiot and has no idea what it he is doing. Oh, by the way, that bike he has is a Street Glide as well. I can't remember any time me saying that I want a cam that brings my power band any higher than what it has now?? In fact, it is very much the opposite, I want to bring it to the left, not to the right..

I don't want S&S cams, but because it was suggested I will take a look at it as a courtesy, who knows, I may change my mind about them but most likely I won't. At least BP is trying to help me accomplish what is that "I" want to do with my ride and not what he thinks needs to be done with it...JMO

JB... engines are an air pump and if the parts from the air cleaner through to the tail pipe aren't matched to work together,the results are disappointing....you have to think "system" not just a bunch of individual go fast parts, if they don't work in harmony together,you won't achieve the results you're after...
BTW...The Andrews 37 cam you're running now claims to come on from 2200-5600 RPM....look where the intake valve closing point is, the earlier it closes the lower in the RPM range it starts to build torque...if you want the torque to come on sooner than the TW37 look for a cam with an earlier intake valve closing point....no magic voodoo... a cam with the intake closing point at 42* isn't going to give peak torque at 2500-3000 RPM's,it would be more like 3500-4000RPMs

you know the cams that are in there now just need more cylinder pressure and timing to work at the rpm that he wants . the only reason i suggested to look at the 585 was the ammount of compression he was gonna run. the over lap and center line of that cam would work nice , the fact is he will take all this in and do what he would like with it .

Ya can't compare what ya do to yer sporster to what you do to yer bagger.
Sporty is much lighter bike.
And the woods TW6 cam will come in around 1800 rpm and pull all way to you hit the rev limiter at 5500 rpm. It will have plenty of torque threw the whole power range.
You want yer torque build up as you come off the line of a Bagger cause of the weight and the airodynamics buddy. Once yer at 100 what the hell.

Bob Woods products are High. He demands it. If somebody he sells to advertises a big discount, he cuts them off. His products are TOP KNOTCH and perform super good.
Woods VAlve springs are the only springs on the market with a warranty.
Its all Mutant motors will use.

Run from him if you can. But he has the best stuff out there. Lifters included.
But I still like fueling race pushrods.
And what HRK replied about all the parts has to work together.
Another reason I suggested Hillside or Tman.
I like Hillside kits. He has a name in racing to back everything up too.

Hillside

But the whole package from them. They have put together cam heads and all that will work best together.
Scott has been doing builds with Woods cams for over 15 yrs.
His hurricane race heads are well known.

There is nothin like building a motor and it eating starter clutchs and starters up from hard crank'n
Or you twistin the throttle and run out of power. Or yer bike running like crap.
I see folks wantin to put their own part together all the time and after its done, It runs o.k. but they got hard startin, poppin or some kind of problem .
Wind up doing it again, and again before they break down and git a Kit.
REally, really hard to bit Kits.

The 37 andrews cam was designed for a lighter bike and works best in a lighter bike.
As much more that chucktx knows than me about bikes. He was talkin Andrews 37 cam to me years ago and I was saying No you do not want a 37 cam.
He said I'm gittin Andrews cams. KNow he was gittin a better price
He has heads and jugs for a 95" build, all he needs is pistons. He has been sittin on it for like 2 yrs. He just got happy with ridin what he has.
He has about 75,000 on the bike. Guess he might do something in the future is he don't git a trike.
I personally don't want a trike. They suck too much gas and scare the homemade hell out of me.
I said then go with a 26 andrews on your bagger.
I was also saying go with the new Cam chain tensioners.
His 88 cu bike runs good for a bagger. But it ain't a Hot Rod.
He said no I'm going Gears. WTF. One out of two ain't bad.:roflmao:

Something that alot of guys dont take into consideration when looking at a cam Lsa . and were the cam is ground on makes a hole lot of diffrence . you can have too cams ground very similar on diffrent lsa . i choose to run tighter lsa on my motors here in the shop and the torque range and vacum in the motor is higher on the street . i may run a same grind with the LSA at 108 for the track take a look at this read and school your self on cams!
Lobe Separation Angle (LSA)
A major specification many racers note when selecting a camshaft is lobe separation angle (LSA). Lobe separation angle (also known as lobe displacement angle) is the distance measured in camshaft degrees between the centerline of the intake lobe and the centerline of the exhaust lobe for the same cylinder. Lobe separation angle is related to lobe centerline and both may be the same value, but they are not the same because they refer to different reference points.

As an example, LSA is one of the few occasions where cam specifications are specified in cam degrees instead of crankshaft degrees. Cam degrees are different from crankshaft degrees since the cam turns at half the speed of the crank. This results in twice as many crankshaft degrees for a given number of cam degrees. Additionally, unlike lobe centerline, LSA is ground into a cam and cannot be changed without regrinding the cam.

The importance of Lobe separation angle is that it has a direct relationship on overlap. Essentially, valve duration and cam lobe separation angle (LSA) determine the overlap period. When lift is added to the duration and LSA factors, the "overlap triangle" is defined. The overlap triangle represents a more accurate way of viewing overlap than only considering the amount of overlap duration. For a given LSA, the greater the duration and lift, the greater the overlap triangle will be. In addition, the wider the LSA (more degrees), the less overlap there will be. In contrast, the narrower the LSA is the greater the amount of overlap. However, keep in mind that two camshafts having the same duration and lift figures can be ground with different lobe separation angles, which results in different amounts of overlap.

Although there are exceptions for any rule, a tighter LSA usually improves midrange torque and usually results in a faster revving engine. A tight LSA also tends to produce a narrower powerband since the torque and horsepower peaks usually occur closer together. An engine with a narrow powerband usually requires higher ratio gears for optimum acceleration. In contrast, a wider LSA produces a broader powerband and more peak power. A wide LSA also improves idle quality and fuel economy while reducing exhaust emissions.

Valve lift with 1.625:1 rocker arm ratio. *Gear Drive, reverse rear cam rotation.Note the TW37s and TW37b cams have the same amount of duration and lift but the opening and closing valve timings are different, by changing the timing of the opening and closing events, Lobe Center, Lobe Separation Angle, and the amount of overlap change. Also note that duration values change when measured at different tappet lifts, such as .053" and .020". Accurate comparisons can only be made with measurements taken at the same tappet lift.
SAMPLE TWIN CAM CAMSHAFTS
Company Grind
Valve
Timing
Duration
at .053"
Duration
at .020"
Valve
Lift
Overlap
at .053"
Lobe
Center
Lobe
Separation
Angle
TDC Lift
At
Valve
H-D 1999 02/34 216 257 0.473 6 106 106 0.087 EFI 36/04 220 260 0.473 106 0.11 Andrews TW37s 10/46 236 272 0.51 18 108 110 0.131 52/08 240 276 0.51 112 0.12 Andrews TW37b 18/38 236 272 0.51 26 100 103 0.151 46/14 240 276 0.51 106 0.14 Andrews 64G* 30/62 272 307 0.64 60 106 107 0.262 66/30 276 312 0.64 108 0.232 S&S 585G* 20/45 245 281 0.585 40 102.5 106.25 0.186 60/20 260 300 0.585 110 0.179 Screamin' Eagle SE211 23/45 248 283 0.508 40 101 106 0.203

what my point is here is that if you look at the post at 96 ci jugs wanted and the build sheet hrk posted . you can save your self 1500 . bucks worth of cam lifters oil pump push rods and what have ya . and raise the cylinder pressure and head work . and cudic inches . and have a bad ass build for under 700.00 dollars . and get twin tec module and tune the thing and you are finished

If'n it was about MONEY.
He could leave it right where it is..........

if the power problem was the late intake closeing my would be a pig my closeing is 40 and opening is 15 and i have a **** load more duration than i need for sure and a split lift to boot . and my lsa is 106 . whats the fix tight quench and cid . runs like a bitch more torque than this clutch will ever handle ! you know what im doing this afternoon lol:roflmao:

Headed to Minnisota to git Johnny's Bike...........

hell know putting a clutch in my bike . you a funny guy cb:roflmao:

Ya puttin a STock clutch in or what.:rant:

Barrnet is all

I can say that no my indy has not given any real solid suggestions other than he recommends a 95" over the 103" I wish that he had some solid combinations to show, but he doesn't. Anytime that I ask him about cam choice, he gives me the same answer, "I will have to do some research and I will get back to you." That gets a little annoying so then I start looking because it is better than waiting on him. This is part of the reason why I am debating on even giving him the work on my heads. I keep asking him what it is that he is going to do the my heads and essentially he tells me just opening the ports. Says nothing more. I don't like that at all. Just saying.

I can tell you why.
If he offers you a suggestion to go with and you do it. Guess who's gonna have to listen to when yer bustin his Chop's.
Johnny is gonna bust em
That is why I said talk to a head man. He will take into what style of ridin you do and if you ride Solo or two up. And what kind of bike you have and what you are lookin for yer bike to do. Do you want a Race bike or a crusing bike.
Then he can make suggestions on the kits he has sold and what has performed and done the best.
I've seen it happen over and over and over and listened to the builders and the customers.
:gah: