Replacing Transmission Sprocket "01" Bagger

Anyone out there have any tips for this job? I'm doing this for the first time and so far I have been REALLY cautious and taking my time. Also, talking to everyone I can about what to look for. The reason for this in the first place was a loosening of the pulley locknut resulting in damage to my inner primary. I'm changing the pulley and inner primary. No damage to my transmission shaft, gears or inner race. The new pulley fits on nice and tight and I'm picking up the inner next week. Special tools at this point is another concern. I don't want to pay for a **** tool have it break after one use. Any pearls of wisdom would be greatly appreciated. BTW, I do have a shop manual.

Danny

Maybe a combination of things. I heard a loud squeal prior to me noticing a larger than usual leak from under the primary drive. I pulled the inner off (about 200 miles later) and saw a sheared allen screw stuck to the inside of the pulley and noticed that the locknut was loose . . . everything was loose. I'm guessing the inner primary seal was the squeal I heard. The bearing race on the mainshaft is fine, no damage. I have ALWAYS had a drip from the inner primary area and thought it was from the inner primary. Now I think it was from the trans seal all the time. BTW, a quad seal ( o-ring looking ) on the main shaft, behind the spacer sleave was kinked and probably has always been that way from day one.

Sounds easier to buy a tool

On some years they used a single small screw, 10x32, to lock the nut in place. On the later models they used a larger lock screw. 1/4 inch, To lock the nut. Get a later model nut and drill and thread a second hole for a second lock screw. Lock the nut with two screws.
The smaller screw after a while loosens and lets the pulley slop a bit. This slop sheers the screw, letting the nut loosen.

This is a different system altogether. The sprocket nut goes on and then a lockplate goes in place. The lockplate fits around the nut and then 2 allen screws go through the lockplate and screw into the sprocket itself. The allens have some type of stuff on the threads that isn't Loctite. I wondered about applying some blue loctite as well or would that be counterproductive?

I'm not sure of the years. The nut i'm talking about has the nut and locking ring as on piece. The ring has holes all the way around the nut. When tight you use the hole that lines up with a hole in the pulley/sprocket. At this point you can mark several holes on the pulley/sprocket. Remove the pulley/sprocket and drill and tap holes where you marked them. This will not let slack develope in the nut/ lock ring and lock screws.
I've tried to find a pic of this nut. I have not found one yet.

Yes, that's what it is. The tightening proceedure is pretty specific. If the lockplate holes don't line up then you can go a bit past the recommended torque to make them line up. Should I put Loctite on top of the stuff that's already there?