Sensors

If I were in your shoes I think I might try the head sensor, easy enough to swap out and would cost you less money than taking it to the dealer to put on their scanner, I hate to tell you to just start throwing parts at it but I am out of ideas and I think we are down to 1 of those three things being the problem. Todd

i agree 100%. took the IAC off and cleaned it then lubed it so it wouldn't stick fired it up, same thing:witsend: thing now that makes me think about the head senor, is that this started with the bike being kinda cold blooded. now it doesn't act up til the bikes been running for about 5 mins. think i'll see about the head sensor. way i see it i'll get off cheaper if i replace every sensor than let the steeler hook it up. they'd likely charge about $200 just to do that:brick:

My thoughts exactly, and if the sensor isnt bad you will have sensors on hand for troubleshooting if you ever need them in the future

spare parts laying around never hurts, took the head sensor off it looks like new. but, it appears that it's not really exposed to anything but heat, appears to have it's own little compartment. had i not done this myself i would have thought it extended into the combusion chamber. not only do i save money, but i learn in the process:devil:

no it out but i have the extended one which i have to check into, heard it's not much good. may have found the problem, found some damaged wires under the consule seems to be running better after fixing them but ran low on gas before i could really tell. i'll put some gas in it after work tonight. hope it's it:devil:

How did you run across these wires and what caused them to break? Todd

just thought i'd make sure all the connectors were right than saw three wires nearly chewed through, the wires that go to that turn sig. "N" light warn light panel thing. not sure how they got that way, sometimes i amuze myself. hopefully it's the problem, it's looking that way, but i don't want to speak too soon.:devil:

:devil: well i fixed the wires. rounds different but still not right. when i start it from cold it'll run a few sec. then stall. fire it back up and start but run like shiit until it starts warnining up. then it straghtens up and idles normal. i'm going to take it out and run it good and hard on the open road. if still no imprvment i'll replace the head sensor. if that don't work i'll replace the crank sensor. if still not right i'll have to go see the olde steeler or maybe get daignosic manaul:witsend: not ready to give yet c

well i replaced the head sensor, not the problem, still does it. ordered a daig man. i'm relly starting to think maybe it's the cps. the steeler has it all figured out. according to them it's no doubt the PC, need to let them put on a supertuner and dyno it. of course they came to this conclusion w/o ever looking at the bike. i know it has nothing to do with the PC, i've removed it three times and it makes no difference. reason i don't take it in, is that i just plain don't trust them. i'm sure it's just a $60.00 sensor, they'll turn it into a $1500-2000 dollar job:witsend:

try this...any emmission related component on your M/C is cover by Factory Warr. for 3yr/30k miles...just make sure that PC is removed from M/c as it voids warr...this is a fed mandate that the dealers dont like to talk about diag and repair should be no charge if dealer bitchs call the factory dealers hate to get calls from their area reps regarding customer complaints as it affects their ranking with the companyand that ends up hitting stealer in the wallet ....paybacks can be a bitch

well . . . i called them. sevice department was closed. the guy who answered said to call back tomorrow, but warned me that if any changes where made such as exhaust it would likely void the warranty. when i asked about the 3yr/30,000, he denied it saying it's 2 yrs:gah: i'll let you know what they say tomorow. thanks

think i got it nothing to do with sensors:witsend: managed to hook up a fuel pressure gauge, should be getting a steady 55-62 psi. instead was getting a very unsteady 40psi. took fuel pump out and found that the fuel filter was full of a mud like crap; tons of it. so i'm i'm cleaning it til the carb cleaner comes out clear. its a new tank, don't think i cleaned it enough. i'll be putting it together tomorrow, let you know:devil:

well got back together gained about 10psi up 50 but still with a unstable needle.:witsend: thinkin i'll need to replace the fuel filter, it has a "check valve " inside which is sticking, then i really need to think about the injectors too, at least i'm on the right road now.

Check the fuel line in tank for a small pin hole.. this is very common and can be found with fuel pressure guage...install guage turn ing on wait for fuel pump to time out observe pressure if it drops to 0 right away it has a leak.. you can some times hear it as it sounds like a squirt gun is in the tank...this is heard better if tank is 1/2 full or less...good luck

seems to hold presure well, tryed to clean the filter, got alot crap out of it. managed to get the pressure up to about 45lbs, but it's unstable while its running. flucates badly, can't seem to get that check valve in the filter to free up. thinking on just replacing the filter.

sea foam

well . . . i tryed running a can of sea foam throught it. nows it's a steady 48 lbs. still farting through the intake, but runs about 75% better. going to run a couple tanks through it, and retest. if the farting don't stop i'll replace the filter. bottom line... sea foam kicks asss:devil:

ended up having the fuel pump replaced. runs great now. makes a big difference:rocket_bike: