Shovel top end . . .

The 30-60-30 method is good to seat rings...in 3rd gear accelerate from 30MPH to 60MPH,then engine brake back down to 30MPH, accelerate back to 60MPH....Do that 10-12 times and rings should be seated...

Congrats, JB.
I wouldn't be in 3rd gear at 30 mph with a four speed. I think that would lug the motor too much.
I would follow the S&S described method of breaking in new rings. The instructions are on their website.

I think you're right. Anyway, varying speeds for several rides, without lugging, should do the trick.

I will look into S&S's instructions, thanks.

That's the key,vary speeds without lugging the engine....

FYI.
Varying speed/rpm's helps the engine keep the oil pumped up. The most important thing is to not overheat the engine. Break-in the rings slow and easy.

I suppose that's so the rings won't lose their temper? Don't want 'em getting mad at me . I'm glad I put good quality Hastings rings in this time.

Took the first ride yesterday. It was 48 out. Brrrr. Took a while to get 'er started, but once it fired it was good to go. Problem was, I had no rear brake; didn't find that out until I got out on the road. Being how that's the only brake I have, you can imagine my concern! Also, the tranny didn't want to shift very well, up or down. Grinding sound when downshifting - yikes! So I really didn't come to a stop until I feathered the ol' thang up the ramp and into my shop. Interesting day . . .

Only rode a mile or two. When I got back I saw that the brake fluid level was a bit low in the master cylinder so I topped it off. There were no leaks in the line or at any of the connectors. Pedal still goes almost all the way down. Maybe there's air in the line? The tranny problem could have been that the oil hadn't warmed up sufficiently? Using 85/140 gear oil - mighty thick at 48 degrees.

Will check the clutch adjustment today. Don't understand how it could go out of adjustment just sitting around a few months. It was perfect before teardown last October.

Nothing gets the heart pumping like a brake pedal going all the way down eh...must be a little seepage somewhere,shouldn't loose fluid in a sealed system....bleed it and keep an eye on it...
LOL 85-140 in 48* be like trying to lube the gears with tar....

really doubt is the trans fluid,depending on what plates youve got,their probley just a little stuck together from sitting.either take the clutch apart & clean the plates or just see if it goes away riding it

Air in brake lines usually creates a spongy feeling pedal. If the pedal is going all the way down, and there isn't any leakage from the system the master cylinder (brake cylinder) may have blow-by in the piston seal.

I like using a Mityvac. Makes the job easy

Motorcycle Brake Bleeding with Mityvac - YouTube

Maybe it's time to either rebuild the master or buy a new one. The one I have came with the roller - and you know how reliable everything else was, right? NOT!! :gah:

Find out where it's leaking from first.
It could be a line, the caliper or a fitting.
Or maybe someone is trying to bump you off by draining your brake fluid without your knowledge.
Has your wife increased your life insurance recently? :roflmao:

A leak out of a line etc. would be apparent (providing Josh ain't blind!) My money is on the brake cylinder. One of my sons had it go on his older bike recently. Drove him crazy until I told him to replace the cylinder and he did.

There are NO VISIBLE LEAKS in the brake lines or connectors. I would like to rebuild my master cylinder, but I'm not certain what year bike it originally came off of. It appears from pictures that it came off a 2000-07 Softail. A rebuild kit is only $15 as opposed to a brand new master cylinder for $100 to $135. I also have a brake cylinder hone, so I could do the job myself. I did all the wheel cylinders on my Chevy step van years ago and they never leaked.

My old automobile home wouldn't fit but if yours does that's the way to go.

JMO but, You put a lot of trust in having only a rear brake. Remember the really 'Old Skool' choppers had a mechanicle rear brake,read:less likely to fail. Again JMO

Is this what your mc looks like...

CHOME REAR BRAKE MASTER CYLINDERS FOR 2000-05 HARLEY SOFTAIL | eBay

:roflmao:less likely to stop you too I'd rather have a hydraulic disc brake over a mechanical drum brake any day...

Sorry missed the part where you mentioned the pics....

Rebuild kit in my '03 book is 42382-87C so there weren't very many changes,mostly just the reservoir...