Shovel top end . . .

It's fairly easiy to rebuild. Might as well do it for $15.
Try this first: Pump up the brake peddle (if you can) then put steady pressure on it. If the pedel goes all the way down and the MC is full then the piston seal is prolly bad. Time to rebuild. If the MC is good the pedal should stop at a certain point without going all the way down.

I pumped up the brake and the pedal came up about half way. Don't know why it wouldn't do it Sunday, maybe because it was colder. I went out for ride #2, about 4 or 5 miles. Clutch worked fine this time, and so did the brake. I varied speeds in the higher gears, shutting down the throttle every now and then to get extra oil in the barrels and heads. The motor sounds deeper, more robust, and there is definitely more power. I think I might be okay for a while now.

Still going to rebuild the master cylinder and get a better rear brake (Wilwood - made in USA) to replace the repro banana caliper (made in Taiwan). I have more truck repairs to make first, then maybe I can get the Wilwood caliper at the end of the month. It's specially designed for rigid, one brake systems. Pretty stoked about today's ride, boys. It was 58 outside.

Tattoo tells me the first 50 miles of break in are critical and if not done right, can result in a short life for the rings. He told me that yesterday when I said over the phone I wanted to ride out to his shop, about 15 miles away. Don't come out until I get 50 (short ride) miles on the rings, he said.

Like I said before, I don't want my rings to lose their temper and get mad at me. LOL

Cool deal. Look on ebay sometimes you can find new calipers at a discounted price.

It got up to 60 yesterday and I took the ol' sled out to Scotland Neck, 7 miles away. Gassed up and headed home. So far, no leaks. Everything's tighter than Dick's hatband. Looks like I'm on the road again, boys. Ain't no mobilin' like Harley mobilin' !

Dude !

Yer gonna have to slow down a little and wipe that smile off yer face and smell the coffee.
Yer like a little kid out there puttin around:roflmao:

ran WILWOODS (ft & RR)on my 1976 bagger WAY back in the day,very nice calipers.get them from a automotive site & fab the brackets,alot cheaper than from a M/C shop

DPS-LW from willwood,$106.95 each

Do you have a picture of Dick's hatband?

JB are you running a late or early style thow out bearing?
My wafer style bearing is toasted, so if the finger, pushrod and slinger.
Thanks.

I'm smellin' the coffee, boys, an' grinning ear to ear! So, I did slow down a bit - sh**ty weather here, cold and rainy the last couple days. No rides. Thanks for the info on the Wilwood calipers. The one I'm looking at comes directly from the Wilwood factory at under $300 including a really nice stainless bracket. I'll be getting a cool anchor for it from FabKevin for $65. I don't mind spending a little extra as I'll be getting exactly what I want.

I'm running the late, wafer style throwout bearing for now. It's supposed to be a heavy duty one with extra needle bearings. If you shift to neutral at stoplights, it should last indefinitely. Got that info from the Shovelhead Forum. They say: Do not pull the clutch in except for shifting! I have a brand new earlier throwout bearing but have been too lazy to put it in. .

Oh, Dick's hatband. Look at any picture of Dick Tracy. LOL

I picked up the same HD wafer style last night. The early style requires changing out the starter clutch gear which needs to pulled off and can sometimes be a PITA to remove.

The early one I have just requires a slightly shorter clutch pushrod.

calipers only 106.00,i can make ya a nice aluminum bracket for alot less than 200.00

Just found the DPS-LW for $106 for blk. anodized. Cool. Prodrag, the bracket would need a 3/4" axle hole and made to fit a 10" rotor. I would hang the caliper below the axle, around 6 o'clock. PM me with a price for the bracket polished. I think I would need a spacer as well, but not sure how thick. Thanks.

There ya go....few xtra bux for fuel....

would be 95.00+ shipping.but ide need to know what size spacer youde need (ide be using .375 alluminum for the bracket)