Shovel top end . . .

+1

hope everything works out OK for you,josh

Can't wait!

Heads arrived today and they look great. We are going to start putting the motor back together this weekend. In the words of Jed Clampett - Wheeee doggies!

Man don't that sound great..

We got the barrels on today and also got the helicoil inserts in the spark plug holes in the heads. They are the solid type - not a coiled wire. Once you get them screwed in, you put a tool in the end and tap until they spread out at the top edge. I don't expect they'll ever come out! I'll do the rest tomorrow and maybe Monday. Lots to do: get the heads on, then the rocker boxes & pushrods,etc., then I have to make a new wire from the points to the coil, gap the points and time it. Manifold & carb. Exhaust pipes w/new gaskets (Cometic). Change the gas. New oil filter. Fresh oil in the bag, etc.

Next month I'll be switching to EI and getting a better rear brake. $$$ and more $$$.

All the Cometic gaskets are metal and Tattoo says to put them all on dry. Head gaskets are 3 pieces held together with rivets.
We were wondering if the torque specs are different on the heads with the Cometic gaskets. Stock torque on heads is 65 ft. lbs.

Git Chucktx to help my Old Butt to remember.
But to the best of my memory, you use copper coat on the metal gaskets to make them seal.
Mabe you could also contact Prodrag and ask him
My Old age is making me slip a little more lately

On the Evo's and twinkies the torque values and sequence are the same as the service manual calls for...couldn't see them not being the same on the shovel...
Prodrag or the boyz on Shovelhead US could probably give you the definite answer though

Go on dry and no need to retorque is what it says here about the MLS gaskets

http://www.cometic.com/catalogs/harleydavidson.pdf

Thanks, Lucifer. You, Cometics, and Tattoo are all in agreement. Cool. I'll also put a few drops of oil on the head bolt threads and a smear under the flat washer. I'm told this gives an accurate torque reading.

The 3/4" base nuts, I am told, should have a drop or two of red locktite on them before tightening? Torque on those is 50 ft. lbs. There were no base nut washers on my engine, but Tattoo tells me that I should use some flat washers with them.

put the r. boxes on the heads before installing the heads,flip the r. box upside down,then install the head,this prevents the rocker arms from flopping down & getting cought on the spring.torque the heads to 35#`s in a star pattern,then 65#s in the same pattern.retoeque after first heat cycle when its hot

Thanks, buddy. Will do.

Yeah, it is, and I am grateful. I got the heads, rocker boxes, pushrods and exhast pipes on yesterday. Starting to look like a motorcycle again. Looking at my SM, I discovered that the base nuts are supposed to be torqued to 32 - 36 ft. lbs. instead of 50 like I thought. I couldn't get my torque wrench on them so I tightened them up with a standard 5/8" wrench as tight as I could get them, then added more length with another wrench and gave them all a little extra nudge. I used a couple drops of red locktite on them as well as there was no room for washers of any kind - studs were just long enough for the nuts.

Today I should get the carb, manifold, and ignition on.

I bought a new chain, one of those roller type chains that has the little rubber washers inside the links. the master link doesn't have a clip to hold it together - I think the link must be peened on. (not peed on!) Any advice on how to do this? It looks like it will take an extra set of hands at least. No one to help me today with that . . .

It's been a while but I believe the chain should have a master link to hold it together. If so install the C-link with the open end toward the rear of the rotation.

I think there is supposed to be a special tool for it...but,my buddy Keith has installed a few O ring chains on a few bikes(mostly off roaders) and I'm pretty sure he didn't have a "special" tool...except maybe the hammer,punch & anvil I'll check it out with him later today to see how he does it...

Okay, I'll wait. Thanks.

I didn't get up there today...but all he used was a sledge hammer(to lay the chain on) a machine hammer and a punch,then just rap it 3 or 4 times,don't take your frustration out on it, all you want to do is spread/mushroom the rivet a little to hold the side plate on and you don't want it too tight...

Check it after a few miles

How'bout just buying a master link to install??

There's that option too...if he wanted to order and wait for it...but if he built a bike from the ground up,I'm pretty sure he could put a chain together and peen it