Shovelhead Electrical Problem

Looks like I am going to have to get a different meter. This one doesn't have options to make settings, only reads current and continuity. I think I understand except for the charger comment. What do you mean? So basically i need to put meter wires on the top and bottom post of the coil for the primary test, and then one lead in each of the plug wire holes for the secondary test. But all wires are to be taken off the coil right? I do have a dual fire ignition and 3 ohm coil. I would like to go to a single fire, but don't I have to change the dual fire Hi 4 ignition and get a single fire, and then a new single fire coil with the 3 posts? Or can mine be converted by changing the coil and wiring?

Shovelhead Electrical Problems

I think my ignition is just a dual fire race ignition. Thats what it says on the unit. Don't see any switch on it to change over to a single fire.

Look @ the manuals on Crane's website CraneCams to see which one you've got. Mine can be set several different ways, but it's for an '86-'90 type Sportster & I've got it set to run 2 coils for dual-plugged heads. Single-fire & 1 dual-fire coil for each cylinder, so both plugs fire @ the same time. Sounds tricky but really it isn't.

You may not need another meter, could be like the one I have it'll adjust itself for whatever your testing. You got er, 2 posts for primary, plugwires are secondary. A fully charged battery should read a little over 12V.Should be 13.5V- 14V with the engine running. But I guess you can check it that way just yet.Could have drained it a little when it quit on you. If your ignition system isn't the adjustable one just stay with what you got . When you checked the plug wires you should have got a low resistance reading(continuity), no reading or infinity(no continuity) would mean bad wires. Continuity is read by using the Resistance(ohms) settings. Let me know some of the readings you got on your coil and plug wires. I'll have to go up to the garage to check my memory(books)on what resistance for the plug wires should be.
Good luck, :devil:

Well, here's what I found. On the primary side of the coil, With the meter, touching the top post with one wire and the bottom post with the other, I am getting 3.1 ohms. Now, putting one meter wire in one of the secondary, where the plug wires go, and the other meter wire in the other..........NOTHING. I get no reading at all. Now here is the other thing that has me puzzled, I got a set of Crane "FireWire" 8.5mm double silicon, reactive core wires on Friday. When connecting one meter lead to one end and the other lead to the other end, NOTHING. Thats what I got when I checked my old wires, so I got the new ones. Whats up with that? I thought I should get continuity through them, but I don't. I know I am connecting to the metal in the plug boots.:witsend: I am almost ready to just take it to a shop. Just hate to spend the bucks for the labor.

Thanks man, yea it is a dual fire, but it is not the type that can be switched to single or dual. Straight Dual Racing ignition. Man this is aggravating.......:cussing:

I'm certainly not an expert but I believe your plug wires will be a very high resistance (10-15,000 ohms). They are normally "resistor wires" which reduce RF interference with these high energy ignitions. To measure this, you would have to go to a higher scale (RX10K or 20K) on your meter. If you should try to measure your wires on RX1 scale as you did with your coil, you would measure an open on your plug wires since your meter would only ready up to 50-100 ohms. If you go to the higher scale, you should get a reading. The Fluke should be able to measure anything you have to measure. Good luck.

I just don't believe I have the right meter. I can't set anything on this one. It only gives me a digital reading. This one measures AC, DC, Amps, and Ohms. Problem is, no continuity through the Brand New plug wires and no reading on the secondary side of the coil. I can only get a reading on the primary (top and bottom posts) of the coil, and it is 3ohms, what it should be. It is a 3 ohm coil like Crane recommends. I don't know, I am just not good with electrics.

Well the 3.1 ohms on the primary is good ,generally nuttin on the secondary would indicate thats the problem,BUT, you should get a reading on your plug wires especially if they're new.I can't see a Fluke meter not being able to give you readings for high resistance and it sounds like your using the same one I have(no settings) altho I haven't used it to test plug wires or a coil.I'm gonna tomorrow now tho. Right now I would suggest take your coil, plug wires and the meter to your local Indy and get him to test them for you, he probably wouldn't charge much if anything at all to test them for you and in return you can support your local Indy. I'm a little puzzled too as to no readings for the wires, so I can't say your coils bad either.Sorry man,I'm at a stand still right now,I'll do a test tomorrow evening on my plug wires with the Fluke and my old trusty analog meter and get back to you tomorrow. If you don't know an Indy ask around and I'm sure you'll find one,most are pretty good guys and don't mind helping a guy out:devil:

Hey pappycool, Just got back from garage, the Fluke meter I have is model 7-600. I have a brand new set of wires on my bike, tested em --nada -- no reading same as you, tested the coil on the Sporty since its the only bike there with a duel fire ignigtion, got 2.8 ohms on the primary and --nuttin-- same as you did on the secondary, of course I couldn't find my old analog multimeter, but seems the Fluke meter won't do high resistance,go figure .So, if you can't locate another meter,take your coil and the wires to your local Indy, he'll have one or at least he should and it'll take about 1 minute or less to check them. Let us know how you make out.:devil:
Or borrow a coil from a friend you know is good and try it.