Sportster Rebuild

Yep he list some type of adapter got to re read the estimate. Shift what ever parts you dont use you can resell for a profit at those prices

I think that adapter was for the mikuni? I will reread.

Now he mentioned in a way that was funny but earlier I was browsing his site and I actually saw a pair of pipes that were 2-1 that I would like.

Be still i think its gonna snow in florida tomorrow! Gotta say johnny with tjat motor you might need a pipe but like i said yesterday dont spend the money till you try what you got on it.

I like that pipe. Check it out. Go to his site and click the exhaust link. First one on the page for Sportster.

Ok guys, I just received a really nice estimate from Hammer Performance. This estimate is WAY WAY TOO GOOD to pass up. Basically, this is an entire new engine built how I want it. The amount of material that is coming out of this heads is just crazy. To start with, 12 cc increase along with a bunch of port work to unshroud the valves. The valves will have to be sunk in for clearance as I am going to use what Aaron suggests and go with their Crush 600. As of now this estimate is not including a new crank but that may change. Also does not include new rods. Also might change pending on how all else looks.

The pipe that I am eyeing is @ www.hammerperf.com click the Sportster/Buell thumbnail at the top, then click exhaust. First one on the page.

I am curious though, in the estimate it says to change or update the anti rotation pins. What is the importance of this?

I was looking at that one also. Funny that they won't ship to you in the lower 48 but will to me!
Also look at the D&D Bobcat 2-1, I am floating between the two choices for when I begin to put mine back together.

I like that butterfly set up.

Well as far as the lifter block updated pin the way yours are now you have a cross block with a screw in the middle holds the pins from coming out so the pin floats inthe case as the lifter moves up and down the updated pin is part of the bolt and is one solid unit screws into the case

So this upgrade will eliminate pin float? Keep the lifter more stable?

yes you answered your own question

Another thing that I have decided on is that I am going to use solid push rods, not adjustable.

This is the article that convinced me to go with solid push rods.

http://www.hammerperf.com/ttpushrodlength.shtml

There is no need he is setting up the geometry and deck hight the math will tell him exactly what length to make them and put the ends on from mae west.

Yes, but I really didn't want adjustable before. Some conversation on the XL Forum got me thinking.

Listen adjustable push rods are only for convenience. The only time they are used in tje auto industry is to figure out what length we need to keep the rocker in the middle of the valve stem .they are never a permanent fixture in a high performance motor .they are just convenience for us not to pull the rocker boxes. The real way is to get the preload correct and pull them back out and get the correct length ordered.

I understand that. I have read that article before which got me thinking. Strength is key for me here.