Spyke starter issues

Got a spyke for the heritage a year ago and it's had issues

Some times when I hit the start button nothing happens yet I have power at the wire and the electronic comp releases open as they are on the same circuit

I put an override button on the solenoid and it will crank every time
It will do it. Then all of a sudden work. Then it will stop working. Online fuse is 15 and has popped occasionally. But the releases work every time

Here is the plunger



And inside



It did run on one time. So that may have done some of the damage. But it's been a PIA from day one



Pulled it apart and cleaned up the contacts

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thanks for the heads up.........

Got one ground. Have spare. Where would I connect. To the battery and frame as well

Yeah it had one run on. That fubard the brass. Got the inside smoothed. If I could take apart plunger I would flip brass contact.




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I've done all balls for a buddy, and the first one took a dump
6 months in, it stuck in run and burned up, which this did as well
didn't burn it up, but sure fubar'd the contacts

Wonder what rebuild kit would work....

OK, I'm gonna ask. Would a Stock starter hold up?

Yeah it did for 10 years from 88 to 116
however it's now a 124, and has electronic
compression releases.

Frankly I think it might be getting
too much voltage drop at the
starter not allowing the solenoid
to do it's thing..

my thoughts.....you have compression releases....i think a stock starter would handle it. without the releases i dont think it would........stock starters are hard to beat.....thoughts??????

Well, if it was a fatglide where the starter is easer to bend
over and see I'd consider putting it back in.

Here's my take, the larger starter needs more
power to operate, and it's on the same power
line as the releases as you want the releases to
trigger as you press Start.

So I bet the voltage at the starter is too low
to enable the solenoid properly. I'll do a drop test (voltage not the starter)
this evening, and I'm going to pick up new plunger and brass contacts ($23)
local store and put it together.

Then I think I'll get a relay run the starter switch to the control switch
on the relay to signal a go to send power, then power will go straight
to the solenoid and have a second power run to the relays so they are
getting full battery power.

This should remedy it and take a load off the Start button as well..

So, drain the tank (naturally it was just filled) pull it, and check wires
for any shorts and then put the relay in...

How old is the battery? The separate relay idea should work allowing all power to the starter. That would also help if a battery is not up to full potential.

Battery is a year old. Holds s good charge. Replacing contacts in starter and starter relay. Will see what voltage I am getting


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Got new solenoid rebuild and picked up starter relay. So starter is done as far as changing parts

Now on to chasing the big Electric gremlin started by measuring voltage at green wire. 10.46 when starter button pressed

Time to do volt drop test.

Checked the relay slots U which is BK/R from button 10.46

Then check direct voltage from battery at slot E R/BK which is power from main switch. 10.46

Hmm pattern?

Check voltage at power to main switch R red wire. 12.57 so I sm good to the main switch

Turn on main ignition and check R/BK which is feed to starter relay power E 10.46 volts

So it appears that the main ignition may be culprit in that there is a drop right at wire coming out of switch


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Good trouble shooting You are drawing power to other parts of the bike when the main switch is in the on position when starting it. So the idea of all power to starter is good that way you by-pass all the other power draws.

Wonder what the normal voltage drop is coming out
of the switch, I can't see it dropping 2 volts just by turning on the switch
alone, only thing on is head light on low and gauge lights and front turn signals.

Disconnected the gauges and no difference

Going to pull the tank tonight and disconnect turn signals
(rear tail section disconnected already, ignition is out)

I"ve gone through several main ignition (dash) switches over 10
years, something in the harness has to be wrong.

I've joked about getting a new harness LOL

Have to look but I don't think I still have the
last ignition switch, I pull the barrell so I have the key
the same,

TOnight is drain the tank night...

I have the diagrams in the SM and I pulled both power delivery wires from the connection to the main switch.

Before power in 12.5. Power out 10.4 both sides

Pulled wires out and checked.
12.5 both sides so there is a draw somewhere that has to be found

Next up. Tank off wires back to switch check fuses then check connections to the front controls and lights.

I'm gonna find this sucker.


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I had a issue with the wifes trike where there was a short in the system with the turn signals. It was not blowing a fuse because the TSM relay was absorbing it. Just a thought but you might want to check your power with the TSM unplugged.

Thanks no TSM, Carb bike, 2000, has SNS Ignition module and I have it out

Right now the only thing powered is the main harness and ignition as well as the front switches and lights, Rear light harness disconnected...

I figure I'm going to find a bad connection, broken wire or worn wire along the harness...