tappet trouble . . .

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Thanks HRK. Will do. The guy that ordered my tappet set ordered the wrong thing. The packaging says "solid lifter conversion kit", so I got a set of hydralic lifters when I wanted solids. Have to take them back today and get him to reorder. It costs me over two hours of driving time and $20 in gas to get there and back. Three trips instead of one = $60 and 6 hours driving. Now that really sucks.
I usually order stuff like this online but couldn't find the solid lifters without having to also buy blocks & pushrods sold as a kit.

It turns out that the lifters were solids - the kind you use with adjustable pushrods. They didn't look anything like my old tappets, so I assumed they were hydralic. Tattoo had an old set of adjustable pushrods that used to be in his bike before he souped up his motor. He gave them to me and when the time comes, I'll use them and hope for the best. They appear to be in good shape.

I pulled off the front rocker box and found that the rocker arm is binding. Not sure what to do about that yet. I found metal particles in the oil line that runs from the block to the underside of the rear rocker box. I'm thinking about dismantling the whole motor . . .

Crap! Based on that, I can only assume that total dis-assembly is the wise choice now.

Yeah, and it will also allow me to make a few improvements, like changing the old barrels. The rear one has deep scratches in it and smokes a bit. I may go with 80 c.i. (1340 cc) cylinders, pistons & rings for a little more grunt. I will also get the motor balanced.

I just hope everything else is alright.

Yeah,tear it down and rebuild...You might get away with going 10 or 20 oversize depending on how deep the scratch is. Is the lifter that failed on the same valve as the binding rocker arm??

Yup. So far I've gotten the top end off. The block is still in the frame, but it's only four bolts and it's out! Four of the eight cylinder base studs pulled out, which means I'm going to have to drive 30 miles for a pair of 14tpi jam nuts because two of the studs won't come off the cylinder (see lower pic). I'll have to find an additional reason to go into town . . . Hmm, maybe a beer run. Piston tops look very crusty, but I'm replacing them anyway. Combustion chamber don't look much better (upper pic). When I try to twist the front piston I get a little play.
I took some time off from wrenching yesterday and went to a halloween party. I was the opening act (slide guitar, harp and vocals) for a rock/blues band at a biker club. Great people, and out of this world food.

Cool...Sounds like it was a good party..Bolt's n beer,good enough reason for a run

I know he put new valve seats in about 3 years ago so I assume they are ok. I got the jam nuts and the beer and got the studs back in the block with red loctite.

Just got through checking and all valves are tight - no leaks. I can't seem to find any lock rings or C clips holding the pistons on. I want to take them off the rods. Manual shows what they look like (two different types). There's no slot or a C clip to be seen on either side.

AKA ...Jesus clip...if they weren't there you'd be able to push the wrist pin out....A tiny hooked pick would help you find the split in it....then you'll also find out why it's called a Jesus clip lol.....A pair of safety glasses is a good idea too

Here is a shot of the front rocker box with the shaft and rocker arm removed that was affected by the bad lifter. There is some slight binding when I turn the arm on the shaft. Good news is that there is no shrapnel inside the boxes.

Talked to my machinist and he says he can fix it cheaper than replacing the whole assembly. There sits the ol' shovel lookin' all forlorn. The shot of the barrels shows the busted fin on the one closest to the camera - one reason why I decided to go with a 1340 kit (barrels, wrist pins, pistons, lock rings & piston rings).

Yep...Fix rather than replace whenever possible.