Time To Tear Down

Pay very close attention to cam orientation when you pull them easy to mix 2 of them when going back together .never could understand why the motor company mark the numbers on the back side of the cams .take a sharpie and mark them from left to right 1-4.or vise versa

If I remember right these were marked specifically for each location. I know they were marked intake/exhaust.

Per service manual.

Is it a good chance this lifter could have been the source for his ticking??
Which one is this JB, rear cyl intake??

Yes it is possible. I was thinking it would be the in front cylinder but hey, noise travels. Oh well, not a big deal, maybe since I have everything open I will do a cam swap or higher rocker ratio. Decisions.

Oh, and yes, this is the rear intake.

you see any designation facing you from the front. other than the timing marks . very easy to make a mistake if you dont mark them as you pull them out of the box .or before you pull them out. two on the right can get mixed up

Pic looks like mine does right now! U been snoopin' in my shed?

I have the cam cover off of the bike, and the cams are out of the engine case. There is no way that these lifters are going to come out from the bottom because they are hitting the bushing for the cams. The only way I can see that these are going to come out is by taking the heads and jugs off. Three of the 4 are being a pain in the butt.

A picture of the rear cylinder lifters still in the bore.

can you run a brake cyl. hone down the bore and lift them out with a magnet?
?

A magnet won't do it either. As far as running a hone through it, not the route I want to go. If they don't come out with heads and jugs off, there is a serious problem.

I don't see what pulling the heads/cyls will give you, just maybe more room for leverage. but if stuck on the bore at bottom, what about remove cams, pack all with rags and bearing grease, and "adjust" protruding lifter problem with a die grinder? You'll need to replace them, but they will be out. Or maybe I'm misunderstanding issue?

Read back about 10 posts. Lol. I tell you why I think I need to this route.

Hammer Perf to the rescue! Does Tappet Anti Rotation pin clearance article have anything to do with this?

If the roller axle was loose would there not be scarring on the bore surface? Or is it hidden by the fact you cannot get the lifter out enough to see the damage?

Got me a lil confused too JB....Can you post a pic of the cam chest area with cams removed??I can't visualize how the cam bushings are in the way...

I personally don't think that the rollers are loose. Yes your thinking is correct in my opinion however, from what I can feel with my finger, the lifter bore is really smooth. If I lift the lifter from the top to as far as it go, the lifter will fall back into the bore on its own. This is why I am having trouble accepting that the roller axle is protruding or that there is a burr that it is hanging it up.

If you go to Hammer perf. website, one of the pic. shows the inner cam bushings appear to be in the way of the lifters coming out the bottom.