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Today is the Day

Discussion in 'Pull up a chair and sit for a spell' started by JohnnyBiker, Jun 21, 2012.

  1. FLHTbiker

    FLHTbiker Moderator Staff Member

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    There is a heavier spring that can be put even into the new oil pump to give it a little better oil pressure.
  2. JohnnyBiker

    JohnnyBiker Well-Known Member

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    That is the Baisley that was mentioned.
  3. Lucifer

    Lucifer Well-Known Member

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    First upgrade .... Spring tensioners wore out, chunks of them scored scavenge side of my oil pump ... Hybrid kit goes in because there was only a few bux difference in the hybrid kit and a new stock oil pump.... TW21 went in because I wanted more bottom end torque. 06 heads went on because rear exhaust stud broke off my stock head and they were right there for a real good to price... Ordered 95 inch kit because I wanted to try the Minton/mouse build and wanted the engine black again, it was brown from 3 yrs of rain and mud.
    ...

    We're not jumping all over you JB for wanting to upgrade things, just trying to help you get the performance you're after and not replace parts that don't need to be:D
    Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2
  4. baggerpaul

    baggerpaul Well-Known Member

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    tman makes a good pump to replace the stocker lots of talk about it on htt
  5. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Unless it's not pumping oil, why?

    Its a waste of good money JMO, if it makes you feel good great
    but really, it's a waste of money that could go to more go fast parts.
  6. JohnnyBiker

    JohnnyBiker Well-Known Member

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    I understand that but at times you guys make it sound like I am doing the stupidest thing in the world by doing what I am doing. :confused: I don't want to turn this bike into a "ROAD RIPPER ONLY" bike. That is my main issue and dislike for Woods. I understand that he has been around this stuff DOE long long time and in no way do I have the standing to argue with his knowledge, but I have been on here and have had Woods Talk jammed down my throat, I rebel against that sort of stuff. The more I hear how great something is, the harder I want to go a different way.

    Kirby, BaggerPaul, HotRoadKing, and You have all been HUGE in getting me set in right direction. My course is set and I am not going away from it.

    Here is the big reason why I haven't just done the entire thing all at once.. I do not own the bike outright just yet, so I do not want to throw tons of money at it and then something happens and the bike gets taken. Now I am out a lot more money. I am being conservative and cautious. Do I think that I will lose my bike?? NO, but Shiit happens and one just does not know.

    Now, earlier I had mentioned using the +4 key with the RS cams. I never intended to do that until the 98" was done. Again, thinking out loud.
  7. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    JB,, ya need to take advice on the inner net
    a little easier, it's nobody telling you that you are
    doing dumb things but consider this.

    You are young, on your second HD.

    I'm on my 5th HD in the past 10 years
    Dropped a ton of cash in all of them but
    this last one.

    Turned an evo 80 into a hot rod evo 80, heads, pistons, cams, tuner,
    intake all on a 97 EVO MM EFI system bike, talk about "cutting edge" lol

    Took my 88 Heritage from 88 to 95, to 116 to 124, this weekend I found
    the bag with receipts for 10 years of stuff NOT including the 116 and up
    costs, lets just say I could be taking the year off ......

    09 RG- Built it to a 106

    Add Phills 88 to 95 inch conversion on his 01 Ultra, I built a hot 103 for Mac, a very nice with Kirbys heads 106 Ultra, and we'll not consider Dougs Evo 113 Valdez, that's like doing a 100 bikes....

    Anyway I've paid the dues, you are welcome to write that check as well, we can
    sit back, watch and just see what happens, or, maybe toss you a bone about things
    plus or minus, you just need to read them with less of a personal interest.

    Try reading them as if you were reading about someone elses question, not your own, then they will seem different...

    So here's my two cent's

    Take what Kirby told you, don't change it,
    and buy it as your budget allows (next time stay home and sell the car parts)

    As to the note, well, if you live your life on what if's you'll never get
    anything done. But that's JMO.... I wouldn't worry about the
    what if I loose it in a poker game or job problem.. You still got the sporty
    to ride. If it goes, it goes, e'ff it.. you can get another...

    Fix it like you like it and ride the snot out of it and don't go overboard
    so you're always fixing your fixes.... That is the Valdez, the helicopter of
    bikes, 20 minutes of fly time, 4 days of work...

    As far as the Rebel against authority issue (AKA woods)
    the point of the dyno was to show you what a great TQ curve looks
    like and why timing on a cam does what it does, not to make you get a tw-6H
    but to show you why timing creates the event, and how lift (.590) and duration (240)
    can peak the power up there.
  8. JohnnyBiker

    JohnnyBiker Well-Known Member

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    I am just getting mixed signals HRK. Hey, I am after that great torque curve just the same as almost everyone is. To be honest, I don't like that much lift, " (.575 or higher), at least not for an everyday rider.

    "Next time stay home and sell my car parts." :roflmao::roflmao::roflmao::roflmao: Wanna buy them..:roflmao::roflmao:

    Just curious though, how I am not following what it is that you guys are saying? I think that I have followed almost everything to a T. I just don't don't want the exact same build as you or the next guy. Do people have what it is that I want, yes, but not around here that I know of. Trust me HRK, I do really appreciate it and all of you have saved me a lot of money... My wife thanks all of you as well. :D
  9. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    you'll never notice the extra .015 until you crack it.

    Actually what makes the 6H so good is not just the .590
    but the 240 duration.

    Your bike is what an earlier 2000 something twinkie?

    One issue on high lift cams over say .600ish is room in the cases
    so if you are going to install it be sure you don't go so high your cam lobes
    cause you to start grinding inside the cases. Macs 103 was like that
    not a ton of room

    Later TC cases they changed the casting in the cam chest and going
    big isn't a problem...

    BTW I rant tw-9b cams in my 166 and SNS 640's in my 124.
  10. Sleepy

    Sleepy Well-Known Member

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    The heads on that bike were ported by a tech at the shop, been doing it for years. He ported the heads on my 89 inch Dyna. It made pretty good power.
    JB, there's been some pretty good advice from some pretty knowledgable people here. I can't give you anything close to that level of knowledge but I can offer this. I don't think you are going to find a Harley that pulls hard at 2500 RPM, none of mine ever did and I've had stock EVO's and a Stroker EVO and the Twin Cams I haven't done much with. I'm still breaking in the Limited and it ain't gonna be a rocket either. Just about every big Twin I ever had was in the sweet spot at 3200 RPM and upwards 4500-5000. For a while I figured that there's no way on God's green earth that I should have to downshift a big Harley to get some serious motivation and although I didn't have to, it sure ran a lot better and faster when I did downshift.:)
  11. FLHTbiker

    FLHTbiker Moderator Staff Member

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    Good post Bob, I remember your Dyna, sure had the power but seems you were working on it a lot and a lot of money went into it. I to have spent money trying to get that ultimate power out of my Harley's to the point now I just want to ride and enjoy. This will be the first bike that I will not do any engine mods to. Exhaust yes but nothing else. I even put the stock mufflers back on after I got rid of the cat and it really didn't sound to bad. I think we all when we first started out had to have the baddest bike in town so to speak. It changes with time though.
  12. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    FL yep that's true, btw if you have the stock cvo cans on the bagger
    I suggest you call Steve at fullsac and order the mid size baffles, it's not louder, it does
    breath better and will have a nice deep tone.

    Tell them you are a member of the cvo board and get 10% off. it's a bolt in (well you do have
    to grind a few welds and drill a hole)

    My neighbor did the same as you and finally did the baffles and he
    hates the loud pipes as well and loves the change.

    What we did was put the 2.25 in the right and 2 in the left, makes it a
    poor mans 2-1 so it can breath better on one side.

    Still can hear the cb, radio and won't wake the neighbors

    You can do it in the garage yourself, swapping the baffles..

    Fullsac Performance - CVO Muffler Cores - Lake Havasu City, AZ

    get the 2's you'll love them they are exactly what the pipes should have been.
  13. FLHTbiker

    FLHTbiker Moderator Staff Member

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    I have the V&H 4 inch rounds back on now but what a difference in sound with the cat out. Night and day. So how hard to get the stock CVO cores out?
  14. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Easy, you remove the end caps which have three Allen bolts
    holding each in.

    Inside you will see the baffle, it will have two spot welds, I take a dremel with a cutting wheel and grind it out, taking my time, don't want to cut through the body of the muffler.

    Once the welds are ground down take a wooden pole or metal pole (like a bar from lowes/home depot) and shove down the inlet pipe of the muffler and hit it with a dead
    blow hammer or rubber mallet, it will drive the baffle out on the two sets I've
    done the wrapping stays in the muffler body.

    Drill a hole in the bottom for the retaining nut for the new baffle, they give the
    instructions on where. I just tapped a starting point with an awl and used a non
    wandering drill bit,

    Insert the new baffle, found that it takes a little wiggle but it will
    seat right in the muffler and line right up, run the bolt and nut on and put on the cap

    Thats it. not hard at all.
  15. FLHTbiker

    FLHTbiker Moderator Staff Member

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    After I posted the question I noticed the instructions on their site so looked at it. Yep, same instructions and does not look all that difficult. But thanks good to know it works. I got a Nano with the bike and loaded it with music so don't want loud pipes drowning it out.
    I have taken other stock HD mufflers and removed the baffles in years past. Some were a bit harder and one I had to cut the baffle in half after removing it to get to the welded in restrictions then weld it back together. That was to much work and then they were straight through and left me with no back pressure. Their baffles look pretty good. Wished I would have known they were in AZ might have stopped by when we were there last month.:)
  16. badinfluence63

    badinfluence63 Well-Known Member

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    The process is expensive. MPG goes rapidly downhill. And you have to ask yourself is this the bike you're gonna keep for awhile for all the $$ you're putting into it?

    I did a simple upgrade on my 2001. Upgraded the cam drive and a 204 SE cam. Definately felt the difference and the loss of MPG. It was under 2000$. I guess that pout me at a stage II download?

    With this new 2012 103" motor and to get it to run less hot,more HP and getting it to breathe a little more freer we're talking about 1)header pipes $599 2) Slip ons $699 3)SE race tuner $469 and thats not even talking about cams or dialing it in. And those adjustments will lose me about 10MPG's.

    God bless ya if you got the disposable cash as its expensive.
  17. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Yeah they probably would have done it for you
    while you sipped a nice cold beverage watching LOL

    They are good quality, fit perfect no fiddling around
    and the company is good..

    Go over to the CVO board and ask about them.
  18. JohnnyBiker

    JohnnyBiker Well-Known Member

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    Yep, it takes some cash to do these things, but well worth it for me I guess. I think that I am going to sit still with this for awhile longer and see if this upgrade can grow on me. The new ignition will go on sometime this week as it will be here in like 1-2 days.

    Thanks to all who have contributed, the help is much appreciated..:cool:
  19. JohnnyBiker

    JohnnyBiker Well-Known Member

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    The following is a post in relationship to my dyno pull. Does everyone agree with this or is this bullshiit? I wish I had some popcorn.

    Traditionally, and historically, the 2, and 4* keys and/or chain sprockets will move the peak torque to the left a bit, and kick up the ccp, a bit. 5 psi is the norm.
    Furthermore, 5 psi is NOT going to yield that, even rolling down hill, with the wind at your back.
    We know this to be all too true, as we have spent MANY hours(have had a dyno here, for over 15 years) on the dyno, here, looking, poking, prodding.
    And when these parts are introduced to a build, the low-mid, most of the time, will come up some, not the whopping mid-upper, increase that is being shown.
    I am in firm belief, that the increased jetting, was most certainly the major player in that power gain, on that side of the chart.
    Just callin' 'em, as I see 'em.


    I look at this way, you have to increase the jet, just a part of the game so it has fuel... Is this a bunch of double talk??
  20. cardboard

    cardboard Well-Known Member

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    If I'm reading you right you are thinkin about going to bigger size main jets.


    The size of the jet has to do with the size of the motor valves and head cam combination with the amount of fuel it can use.
    If you just dump extra fuel in the chamber it ain't gonna use it, its going out the tailpipe.
    Your plugs will be washed down good and it will probably not run on top end as well.

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