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Trying to find year and parts list for a CV carb

Discussion in 'Motorcycle Tech Talk' started by Charlie V., May 10, 2019.

  1. Charlie V.

    Charlie V. New Member

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    Have an '81 Sturgis, with a newer CV carb on it. Trying to find the possible year so I know which parts will fit and where to look for a parts list.
    The numbers on the side as shown in pic are 33WB. I needs the second cable, so looks like will need to get a new grip with dual cables. And also pretty sure am going to have to fine tune it.
    Currently coughs a bit at lower idle/RPM Thinking idle mixture needs adjusting, but would like a good place to start for parts knowing which model I have.

    I have found the Harley-performance page, which does have some great tuning tips/instructions.

    thanks for any help!

    Attached Files:

  2. Red Rider

    Red Rider Well-Known Member

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    The VIN should give better info than that 33WB. Post that and we are more likely able to help, or just search it yourself. Is is stock, or are the bars changed to larger? Tell us where you are and we may be able to steer you to a reputable shop, too. Also, the coughing could be from aged rubber diaphragm or hoses, give it a good eyeballing. An '81 should get new hoses if they've never been changed, and any rubber could be damaged after near 40 years.
    Charlie V. likes this.
  3. Red Rider

    Red Rider Well-Known Member

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    Just saw the pic of your Sturgis on your other post. Do you know if the bars are stock or not? Cable lengths may not be original stock length, which may cause a hassle when replacing..choke/enhancer likely shouldn't have changed from stock, though.
    Charlie V. likes this.
  4. Charlie V.

    Charlie V. New Member

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    There is a reason we call it the JYD :) It is not the stock carb, nor the stock bars, Has STD cases S&S offset flywheels, 440 cam, LOL
    The cable ( single cable) is a stainless braided.
    This was why hoping the number on the side of the carb would help. And are not to far from rat world in Fl.
    The rubber rings on the manifold are in good shape, had one that the clamp bolt had stripped, but fixed that. Has a mallory electronic ignition. Have retimed that, and that helped some. It's not as bad as it was. Redid the pipes, new gaskets and made sure sealed good, no more puffs of air.
    Still going thru things and checking everything out. Thanks for the tips!

    And just to make sure thinking of the same item... the rubber diaphragm, your talking about the bowl diaphragm correct?
  5. Red Rider

    Red Rider Well-Known Member

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    I'm pretty certain that the carb is a Keihin 40mm CV, since it says Harley on it and the only CV carbs that say Harley on 'em are 40mm and up (1988 or 1990 being the first year, as far as I can tell). And it looks like one, too! As to the year, I don't think that matters - no real changes by year, just jetting changes for different size engines or performance desires. If you're looking for throttle cables, your problem is the length needed. Might need custom cables built.

    There are a number of folks on this forum in your area, maybe they'll be able to help further.
  6. Charlie V.

    Charlie V. New Member

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    Thanks Red. That is a big help right there. Have been looking at the CV performance pages, and checking out some of the tuning sheets. Thinking I need to go thru the fine tune sequence. The bottom screw has had the cap drilled out already.
    The other thing can try is a cleaning sequence to try and make sure any gunk buildup is gone. Need to get my air compressor involved in that one though :) Also running some cleaning additive thru it as well.
    If I do get the second cable, will measure the current and get a matching one. J&P should have one.
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  7. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Lots of guys run one cable, from the old days, but two cables is safer, you want that throttle to snap back if something goes wrong and pulls your hand off of the throttle.

    As long as you know the length of the one cable you can get the second, any shop can do that for you just get the length you need and order up a set, the coated braided stainless steel or black are nice, you get a better smoother pull from the interior coated wires.

    Tuning the CV isn't hard, the instructions are there as you said and it really doesn't matter what cv you have they all function about the same..
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  8. Charlie V.

    Charlie V. New Member

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    Guess am curious on the dual cable, as mine does have a good snap back when let go of, and a pretty strong spring to pull back to idle.
    One of the big things will need to do is check the needle sizes, check how far the idle screw is turned out, maybe go thru the fine tune sequence and see how it all goes now that can say its a 40mm CV and which parts should order if getting new or different jets.
    Never ran a set before so trying to figure out how it works. Does it have an extra spring on it? Would it not cause more hand fatigue if twisting against the extra spring?
    I'll duckduckgo it as well :)
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  9. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    I haven't noticed a big problem with dual cables, it doesn't really add
    a lot of resistance, it is a safety thing, you don't have to run it, lots of old school run one. Personal choice.

    Tuning the CV isn't hard at all as long as everything is in good order, seals, no vacuum leaks, good fuel delivery, timing etc...
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  10. Charlie V.

    Charlie V. New Member

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    Thanks again hotrod. Have done a bit of research on it as well. As mentioned, used as a safety, to pull the throttle back down, possibly due to a light spring, or a gummed up carb.
    Deffo something to keep in mind. And no, does not look like should be too difficult to tune. A few more things to get done, get a nice run on her, then start looking, listening and seeing how everything is doing.
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  11. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    You can also run into tuning issues if you are running open pipes, no baffles.

    I know it sounds nice and loud but in reality it kills power during the range
    you really need it and can make tuning a PIA...
  12. Charlie V.

    Charlie V. New Member

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    Or it helps to fry a rear exhaust vlv ;-) sigh..... So I do try to run pipes with some baffles in them :) Otherwise, yeah, mid range is kinda sucky and flat.
    But it is great when you can take the baffles out and run straight pipes to show some crazy crotch rocket riders with their headers keeping you up till 1 or 2 in the morning, and you have to get up for duty on ship the next day.
    Took them out, went for a short ride, came back, they were all home and sleeping, so I did a nice short run in the parking lot in 1st and 2nd, letting 'ol blue pop and snort, Sure got awful quite around there after that LOL
    The turnouts have on now a baffled pretty well. They are a little throaty, but not LOUD LOUD. I do have a set with small fishtails on them that need repainting, they have less baffle, but are still baffled. And from what Harv telling me, they do bark a bit.

    Just noticed the Mouseville, USA Is that kinda like rat world area? LOL
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