Wanted: 96 CI Jugs

its a bagger . when i ported the heads on mine and added cams and the .030 gaskets it moved better but as a wrench it was not the cams that did it it was the heads and the gaskets the only reason i did the cams was for the gear drive set up . and make sure when i do the big bore that they were in there all ready .

Here are the dyno charts that were taken of The Road Glide. The first one or Run 1 is cluttered and makes no power really at all and I am pretty sure that it is when the bike was stock.

Run 2 is better as well but if you can tell that the AFR are still not where they should be.



Ok, now with this bike I can't really imagine going greater that 85 miles an hour so I think that I would like cams that are a little more aggressive in the lower rpm's. Just a thought.....

the shorter duration and late intake did bump ther cylinder pressure some . but the big change was the tighter quench from the gasket, and free flow of the short turn and bowl work !

I have a set of 96" cylinders off my 09 with approx. 2000 mi. also pistons, stock cams, and stock ex. all of it is for sale.

I was told Andrews 37 cams were put in. I am not sure either what exhaust was used for each run. I am going to ask the salesman that I bought the bike from if he can put me in touch with the previous owner so I can get more information out of him. There was an upgrade to the tranny that I am curious about as well. I didn't buy the bike in Minnesota..

that thing is a little rich not lean john id would leave it .its below 13.2 john at wide open . your reading the chart wrong john .tune aint bad not perfect but not bad

those runs were before and after tune runs you got them mix up . 2 is 1 and 1 is two . look at the both sheets you can see were af was corrected . ps. thats how all dyno sheets should be laid out to read them easy.

i dont know why . it lays out like that when i open the file also but any way . looking at the run i have in front of me . from 3000. rpm and above he is rich . at 2500 to 2850 he looks to be about 13.9 maybe a little fatter . but looking at the power curve the motor likes it . i would not change it the torque and power curve look awesome there is no drop out at all

Ok, now I see what you are talking about. I guess that isn't that bad of tune.

My only real issue is that I don't like where the power was made. It is at about 4k rpm. I would like that to drop down to about 3k rpm. I noticed that when my wife is on the bike with me that there just isn't enough grunt. That has to change.

if that was my bike before i change any thing i would go down one size on the main and try and see if it changes the power curve at all . it might wake it up a little early in the power band .worth a try and wont hurt a thing

Ok gentleman. I was able to get a hold of the prior owner of this bike. He had said that he changed the comp sprocket and he put in Helio cut 5th gear which changed the tranny utilizing 5th more like an overdrive. This explains why I have so much grunt when I downshift into 4th and just friggen shiit can it. The prior owner hinted or speculated that there was already a 95" kit in there but I just don't think there is. I guess I will find out when I tear it down and look at the bore size.

He put an overdrive in it?. I can't remember the final drive ratio on that vintage. I don't think you're going to get any dramatic motion out of your motor much below 3000, none of my bikes ever did..including the baby stroker. at 70 miles per hour what was your tach reading in 5th? and what does it read in 4th. I think there was around a 600 rpm spread on my '04 I never paid too much attention, probably shouda but all I was concerned with was keeping the motor between 3000 and 3500..it liked it there. One thing I would look at if the bike doesn't have it already is a rear stabilizer. If it doesn't have one that'd be the first thing I'd put on it.

I have a set here,3.875 STD 95 inch bore, I could give quick hone or I can resize up to the next bore size +.005 over. They are factory and wrinkle black. 120 for the pair ( with re hone) or add another 120 for rebore. Shipping probably around 20-25 bucks if in U.S. contact me through sandmcycles.com. I can also get whatever parts you need at a discounted rate.
Mike

It isn't a true overdrive though. With this tranny work and the bigger primary sprocket the gearing is completely different that what it should be, you can tell when the butt dyno is working.

Rear stabilizer? what does that do?

It's a stabilizing link that keeps the back of the bike from walking around. I put one on my '04 and it made the bike more stable on corners..just easier ti ride. It's hard to put it in words..not a huge dramatic difference but there's just no drama when you're throwing the bike around. I had my '04 set up and it handled as good as the newer framed bike. here's a link to the one I bought
The Original True-Track

I hope this isn't considered spam..there are other types out there but this one I have experience and it works